Mudge

Sounds like too much sway bar to me. That is why moderate sway bars are used in high speed situations.

The generic rule of thumb that I've been tought, big sways for AutoX, small springs. Med-Big springs for Road Race, and smaller sways. Open Road, small sways, big springs, and compression adjustable shocks, and a zero camber/toe or nearly zero alignment.

Not only that, but the rear wheels are your DRIVE WHEELS, you want traction, overly stiff rear will reduce traction. Most of the time you are PUSHING the front wheels also, you need to ensure that you have good grip there as well, but you usually run a stiffer spring in the front for these reasons. The 4th gen Camaro is about 57/43 - 58/42 depending on options.

Use a light flywheel on an AutoX/RR course, use a steel heavy unit on a drag car.

I doubt its a spun bearing, the engine would be making a pretty nasty noise. I would bank on a broken mount, motor or trans...

Be CAREFULL who you pick. There are many people who lie about flow numbers, perform bad work (leaking heads nuking engines), etc Check and double check and tripple check references, I got awesome work done for a good price, but have seen some bad things lately as well, including people losing brand new 383s from leaking heads, and had some nasty looking portwork (winglet design from playschool, etc).

This is why it belongs on the track, not the streets. Track is much safer for you and your car (almost always true), streets are dirty, crap on them to slide on, other driver around, no run off space usually...

The GT40 example is a bad bad bad example. Sorry, but that car made less than my daily driver, 450 HP out of a 350 Chevy is not a high winder by any means at all. Torque will power you out of corners, if your doing straight line only (Silver State Classic), then I'd consider still a torquey engine. I know a guy who built a torque monster for this VERY reason, 4000 RPM L98 (422 cube???) stroker, solid roller, the works, all built for low RPM duty at over 200 MPH. I never thought if it like that myself until I ran into him, but he is right on the money, low RPM is mo betta for long lasting fun, and in enduro you need that.

Gotcha on the pigtail, in that case yes I'd buy new springs I suppose. Again I am completely unfamiliar with such equal spring rates being used on a car, would love to try it out on a simulation to see how it works out on this kind of car, anyone know what the stock spring rates were? In general you want one oscilation for the spring/shock assembly at the most, if you really wanted you could sit down and calculate all that info based on weight and speed per track you were going to visit.

Sure its not the driveshaft or somethin? Broken trans mount? When is the vibration (RPM)... Good luck...

Absorb in the short term maybe, but remember aluminum is not malleable, it will break if abused. If these are in super pony engines, they are going to be trashed quite often, if not on every tear down, which could be every race depending what your talking about. In a street car making under 1000 HP, why go with exotic parts, just get what is reasonable and what works.

To make 350 HP out of a 327, you do NOT need to rev to 8000. I dont see why you'd have a problem reaching that though, with cast crank/pistons with a roller cam I've seen 7k (factory engine). Likewise at those RPM levels I'd probably go with a solid roller, which means yet again more cost, and plenty more than 350 HP.

Spring osciliation means moving up and down. You have the option possibly of cutting a coil, which will increase the spring rate, take the # rate and number of coils.

It would have to be balanced yes, if the engine is internally balanced then it must be neutral balanced. It would be better to have a harmonic dampner than just a solid chunk of steel, most dampners have rubber when in OEM form.

http://www.imperialmotorsports.com/otpics/

Gee whiz, so I'm assuming they are also rebuilding it to get the lowest friction possible etc, still a rather insane cost. No head porting and such also I would imagine...

Are you using the same builder each time? If you are, I would bet that is probably your problem. There are some crappy people in this industry, leaky heads etc

I hear about bad luck with T5s under heavy power, so I'd probably avoid slicks. If you road race it may never be an issue. I'd go with a T56 from an LT1 car, the LS1 T56 wont fit an older style block.

It seems like a neat idea, but honestly if I wanted to do that and be FORCED to freaking pay out of my booty for fancy modded and beefed up Porsche transaxles then I would have bought a Porsche.

John, what kind of mods to make that kind of power? I figured improve the air intake, and exaust first, and then probably slap a small cam on there and change the jets on the carbs if needed...

Thats a good one, plus you usually need traction from the rear (and often more travel is used as well) due to the rear being your drive wheels, your turning, etc. The Z car you guys are already using extremely high rates in the rear, and for most cars it is very different. My 94 Camaro has 600# fronts and 140-160# variable rears, weight distro is about 57/43.

Some states are now checking the PCM for tampering (byte for byte comparison), although I have likewise heard for now, some people are getting off with a shrug from the tech.

Find a calculator online to find the maximum output capability of your injectors. I'm more familiar with pounds per hour instead of cc's, so I don't know of any myself offhand. I assume thats what you mean with "no mods", you will need injectors at some point, an intercooler would be nice (pump gas sucks), most guys grab a better MAF, exaust, etc If you plan to road race or do more than drag with the car, you will want to keep injector duty cycle low, 65-75%. Good luck

$300 is pretty damn cheap, but I was supprised by the weight. For a 93-97 Camaro the CF hoods (that I've seen) are about 9 pounds.

They look like CCWs (Complete Custom Wheel) to me, they are about $1600 for anything you want, http://www.ccwheel.com/