Mudge

You need O2 sims for replacement of the after-cat O2s, or re-program the computer (PCM). LS1 Edit is very expensive, ~$550 last I checked, the Tunercat crowd unfortunately doesn't have a solution yet. Or you can ship off the computer to someone for probably ~$300.

The 95-97 Optispark is a pretty good unit, the others have a gaping hole in the back where the cam splined shaft goes into the Opti, and coolant/oil can get inside easily, plus the 95+ Opti has vacuum hoses to try and keep moisture out. If you get a 95 or earlier LT1, you can avoid the CAT easily. If you get a 96-97 OBD II LT1, you need to get an OBD I PCM, or simply get some O2 sims to lie to the computer, but programming and OBD II computer is alot more expensive regardless, so I'd go with an OBD I PCM from an earlier LT1 car. The 95+ Optispark is I believe $159 last time I checked, which is better than the earlier Opti cost, and some dealers charge $319 or so to sell the item to you, it all depends where you shop.

Probably the best idea is to grab the JTR book, and see whats needed.

I5 is CRAZY!!! Thats where I hit my near 150MPH on the way to Thunderhill. Thats one spot where the average driving speed is 100MPH depending on the time of day

NA V8s rule

I'd go for the whale tail, dont like the vents myself. I suppose they could be used for brake ducting though.

Dude, that is amazing! Expect to pay $3500ish for LS1/T56, programming the LS1 is pricey at $550 for LS1 Edit, but damn........ Even for an LT1/T56 combo that is a good price, thats what I hope to pay someday. If the LS1 prices come down, I'll reconsider. Good luck!

Excellent... With a sway bar removed from the rear, you would also use a higher rate to "compensate" as well, yes?

Are you sure its not timing?

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Can someone please explain why the Z cars use such a high rate in the rear so favorably? Is it due to IRS being different than a solid axle? Is it spring location? Or...? With weight transfer to the front on hard breaking, and the rear being the drive wheels, I am still not making a connection here.

If that is accurate, for a 4cyl engine that is tremendously heavy. The L98 V8, in all iron form, is 431 pounds (depending on year).

Viscosity modifiers are also going to result in faster break down of the oil, so dino loses out once again This is probably in some portion, part of the reason that race cars use a straight weight oil.

1100-2100 RPM on the dyno? Thats pretty messed up! In CA where they do dyno testing (the high smog counties), its only 2500 RPM, and idle (limited to 1200 RPM max I believe), is non dyno. Putting a car in a high load/low RPM situation like that really sucks, that is worse than California!

The spring rates are probably different, number of coils and coil wire diameter will determine this, as well as median width of the spring (from coil to coil measured from the center of the spring 'wire'). Usually higher rate goes in front as far as I'm familiar with, but I've come across at least one setup in reverse of this. If they are more than a few percent different, you should be able to lean on them and determine which one is a 'heavier' spring than the other.

Yeah, that post is a bit of a goof. Spring/shock oscillation should be 1 oscillation and no more, that is how they work. If they dont move, then your driving a suspensionless Go-Kart, not a street or race car.

It says 4x4.5" so I dont see why not in that regard, but I dont see anything about backspacing listed, and for that matter chrome weighs more than a standard painted wheel - especially if they are cheap wheels, and then strength would likewise be an issue.

How much does the SR20DET engine weigh, anyone know offhand?

Go with semi synthetic, Quaker State if you can find it. In a test by Amsoil, QS semi-synthetic was about .5% worse in a wear test than Mobil1, hardly a difference at all. In specifications, all of Quaker States products are low ash, high flash, etc etc, whupping arse of other brands by a good margin for the price.

Come into the combustion chamber, not neccessarily hit anything, if it hit anything it would likely be valves from a high lift/duration cam, which is part of the math that you likewise should perform if adding a biggy cam, thats where valve reliefs come in.

The LT1 intake doesn't need much work, if you open up the front you can use a larger TB (~$275+), and you can raise the runner a little to match your heads if you get them ported. The LT4 heads are about 2mm taller IIRC, so sometimes people raise the runner of the LT1 intake a tad to match their heads, which end up with a raised runner about the same as LT4 stock. This is the largest reason as to why there isn't much of an LT1 intake in the aftermarket, other than $2000+ fabbed aluminum (Hogans) intakes, or carbed setups. Too big on the valves will kill low lift flow (bad), so likewise I agree on stock sized or not much larger valves. I went with 2.0"/1.56", instead of 2.02"/1.6"

1997 Aluminum LT1 heads are the same flow approximately as the Impala iron heads. 93 has the most meat on them, so they are the 'best' for all out porting as far as LT1 stock goes. The Impy iron heads weigh more obviously, allow less timing, and are lower comrpression (even with a .026 Impy gasket). The flow difference is about 10cfm, big whuppee 94 LT1-T56 411 SAE-RWHP, ported stock alum heads/cam etc Why the ZZ3 cam? Are you going to actually smog this vehicle? That is a teeny weenie cam

The Rochester QJet was invented for this purpose, small primaries, and big secondaries.

Read with caution because as you can tell and hopefully already know, no two benches will give the exact same numbers, especially since the operators often dont follow the same procedure as another, and they are not listing the methodology used either (flow bore diameter, atmospheric pressure, etc). The slightly higher flow of the Impy head, but lower compression and less timing your forced to use, do not make it worth it. A quick clean up in the bowl will get better than that, just dont go overboard if you dont have the experience. You can convert to OBD I fairly inexpensively, and programming is cheap. I'm not sure where in CA you are, but if you needed a hand with OBD I stuff I could help you out provided you had Tunercat, or if you are semi nearby, or I know people throughout the state who also have experience tuning.

I wouldn't use the T5, people with stock WEAKLING 3rd gen Camaros break them, those are ~3200 pound cars. Put behind a more powerfull LT1, get a T56 instead, JMO of course.