Mudge

Since Motorolla stuff is so common, and a good handfull (heh) of people know how to work with them, I am assuming the only stumbling block is learning which memory address' do what, make good guesses at what hex values are equal to how much change in said field (RPM, etc). Unless the interface is going to be that much different from what people know how to work with...?

I am not on the DIY EFI lists or anything like that, but those guys are the 'pcm hackers' out there. Some of them coming up with thier own commercial products down the line. So is pretty much everyone using tricks here and there (lying to the MAF etc), and aftermarket $$$ setups? Thats one thing I wanted to totally avoid with my last engine, a real budget setup. Once you want that extra 10% power it starts getting very expensive when working outside of the range of the stock computer, and I wanted to stick with it and its limitations which were fine for me. So this sounds like a big 'shucks darn'

HUH? WHAT? Damn, someone should have told me this before I started using them and running 26+ psi of boost. I guess I just do not care for such generic statements. Any piston is susceptible to being nuked if you try and run high boost with junk pump gas, have an inadequate fuel system or the engine is not properly tuned. Your the first I've heard of them, are they coated at all? I am not as familiar with aftermarket hypers being used non NA as I am with stock, LT1 more specifically, and they will not take the abuse for long, even running rich on race gas. I know a guy now in the 9s, but was making about 650 crank HP on a stock bottom LT1 until he lost a rod and about 3 pistons. Obviously the LT1 is not the best example being built for NA compression wise. I've heard good thing about KB pistons, but again your the first I've heard of with large PSI on hypers, since hardly anyone trusts that route.

Either count revolutions per mile (tirerack will list this), or just look at the tire height and match them closely.

I've not heard a bad thing about the KB pistons yet, but I do know 2 people who broke SCAT cranks, both in NA LT1s.

If you left click them they come up for me... IE 5.5 Win2k

Does anyone here have thier own programming software for Nissan ECU/PCMs? I would like to hunt this down if possible for some of the later model EFI computers, EPROM or EEPROM but don't know where to locate. Have only used GM related software before. On that note, does anyone have Desktop Dyno or Engine Analyzer files for any Datsun 6s? Thanks!

If harmonic vibrations are not kept under control, the engine can still eat itself most definately. Usually a more powerfull non-NA motor will be easier on mains than a higher RPM engine, especially if vibration can't be controlled. Many Chevy cast cranks can be taken to 7k, beyond is generally not safe (sorry I don't know more about the Z stuff yet). Usually this is where people go forged for high RPM, the crank, rods, and beefier mains and good studs or just beefier bolts throughout.

Good post by Mike. The edging isn't pretty, again its for the serious guys who usually only race the car, and it does hug the ground so sure, its not all that ready for the street, although it is flexible and if it were to break off in chunks no loss. That was the whole point that was made to me when I inquired about it for another car, dont let the air under the car in the first place. One thing you could do is at least use a little rake in front, meaning lower the front end in relation to the rear to try and produce some downforce, but am new to Z cars somewhat so am not sure what is optimal either. I do plan to road race this but not neccessarily open road, so will probably never see above 150 (except maybe at Buttonwillow).

Low compression + higher boost = more peak power High compression + lower boost = lower peak HP People have been putting 8psi (intercooled) on 10.5:1 engines, but again you are waiting for the day that the thing blows up. Again it sucks that you end up pulling so much timing your giving away power anyway, so with all that hassle I would just do it half way right the first time

If your going to add $1000-$2500 to your project you may as well start out with the purpose built motor. If the pistons are hypereutectic (cast), then it is even less suitable for boost and is likely to be nuked at some point, especially for those of us with crappy CA gas.

Yep, look into a Fluidampr/ATI etc Most of the stockers just use rubber on a steel base. If you hunt around you will find resonance readings, I think the Fluidampr was better under 7k (and find @ 7k), and the other was better for all out 10k RPM racing etc The info is listed somewhere on www.go-fast.org for the lower RPM setup which is obviously used on most street V8 setups, especially since the stock PCM is only good to 7k (8bit setup).

BTW, the ZL-1 block is about 5k, forget it!

New firing order (this means no cam/crank interchange) All aluminum, 6 bolt mains (yay) New bore/stroke dimensions New intake design About 60 pounds lighter than the LT1 Different oiling I believe (non priority still) Basically as said, its not your Dad's Chevy, this is Gen III. 2000 or 2001 cars get the LS6 intake manifold (forget which year, doh). The LS6 gets different heads. The 2001 and up models have a different top ring design, due to drivers reporting oil consumption due to driving at high RPM under low throttle conditions (lazy shifters). I also remember in 2001 the LS6 got a gutted MAF, no more screen or plenum, due to the Vettes getting a straight shot of air anyway. For the most part the LS1 will do you damn well, but if you can afford it the LS6 is top dog. LS6 heads have gone up to 340cfm, and I've heard of about 310 for LS1 heads, with a 222/230 wussy cam the LS1 cars are putting out 420 RWHP (bastards). www.camaroz28.com for more info, the message board is over 30k members.

I ran Impy head gaskets (.026" steel) on .010" shaved LT1 heads on 91 octane CALIFORNIAN gas just fine. http://docmudge.tripod.com/dynorun030902/index.html Alot of long tube users report false knock with LT1s on the FBody, I haven't heard the same be true of Impy guys though, so its a little bit of a mystery.

The T5 in the old Camaros has a bad reputation for being weak, with a lighter car and almost not traction it might not be so bad, but ultimately you will want something better. Some people have had more luck than others.

The only rockers that you will have to mod the covers with to fit are the non-SA setup, since they are wider. Usually you will crimp and grind to get them to fit, some people actually cut the supports but that would not be recommended since the valve covers will want to collapse on themselves and leak.

The LT1 looks for a pedal depression yes, I dont know if thats a function of the PCM or somewhere else in the wiring. If you use non self aligning rockers, you need guideplates and hardened pushrods. I believe the LT1 got hardened pushrods until 96. You will also need new valve springs since the 1.6 rockers will put them near bind, especially if they are old and you plan to rev it up a bit. LT4 springs will be good for .525 lift (barely), so you should be ok there, and they are reasonably inexpensive. I am not sure if they are the same diameter. I live in CA but use Jason in FLA for my parts, good deals, and he knows his stuff. Ask for Jason Cromer directly if you call. Jason Cromer: 1-877-726-8295

A guy I know who does the open road races in Nevada etc, said flat out that he would rather not have air under the car in the first place. Since this particular vehicle is an open road car only not street driven, the setup isn't exactly pretty, but he's seen nearly 200 MPH with it just fine. This basically means some steel front and side skirts, with rubber being the last couple inches used.

Fuel injection usually will have a better torque power band, better MPG potential, better all around except expense! For old schoolers used to carb land, it can be a difficult swap, not only the pricing but again, what do you do with it if you have no experience. Myself I prefer to stick to EFI now that I know how to play with it, the cost does suck a little if you dont start out with it OR plan on using a donor engine with the computer, wiring, etc all there in front of you. I still need to know how to edit the Nissan PCMs though without resorting to some half assed mail order solution

Rear skirts trap air under the car anyway, so your doing yourself a favor by not using it This is why you don't see them on race cars, its for show.

Doh! Looks like you built it yourself, very nice.

http://www.arizonazcar.com/

Blue, your car is awesome! I wonder though about the front end as far as downforce, it looks like it wants to fight the wind more than use it? Did you purchase this body kit, or actually fab it up yourself? Nice Tesla coil! Too bad we didn't get to see more of his potential be used during his life.

http://docmudge.tripod.com/dynorun030902/index.html