Mudge

I thought I had heard that some of the smaller trucks got an alum block, that could very well be wrong. I know the 6.0L are definately iron block, those are the ones most often used for the big strokers you hear about. The truck engines should be called Vortec, even though they are basically an "LS1." Might want to try one of the LS1 sites to get some more info/opinions, just to make sure, if its important to you.

With heads like that, I'm assuming you want to wind the thing out a bit. I would be nervous about going over 7k on a 2 bolt block, even beyond 6,500 is a little risqué for long term durability (if you road race). Just some thoughts from my small brain

He said tool.

ZR1 had variable opening intake runners, too much intake runner = low end torque loss. FWIW Lotus designed it for 'em.

Honda engines are transverse mounted.

Livewire, I use alt + 167 on the numpad, mine looks kinda funky (oval), yours looks aboot right Alt + 761 is a bullet, also handy. ∙

Install http://www.winzip.com , and then right click and select EXTRACT TO _____ (directory name), and it will make a folder of the same name as your downloaded Zip.

DOHC V engines are going to be a tight squeeze, unless maybe they are 60º setups, the above motor looks pretty wide though.

I think you can start by trippling a JWT price for a starter system, if your talking a $700 modded stock ECU.

http://www.winzip.com Its a ZIP file, you've never encountered these?

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292 Grab the L6 engine calculator. If you figure that your going to want to lower compression ratio, for optimum quench you are supposed to avoid using thicker head gaskets as a "band aid," since the N42 is an open chamber head though, maybe that isn't so critical.

What do you need to accomplish? Throw a jack under the car and some tires just incase, and loosen up the Xmembers and drop it!

FAST is alot of moola, but they have a good rep.

Thats news to me, people are still arguing over what the body is going to look like (the recent Photoshop claims). As for power claims I hear 410-415 HP estimated for the base model Vette, but its all speculation IMO.

That may not be too bad, what tires are they running though? I eventually want to run a 245 on a 17" wheel but that will be a ways off, and probably 25.6" tall. The Camaro could do 60 at the top of first @ 7000 RPM, and that was with 3.42 rear gears and most people run a 3.73/4.10.

No its not holding the bolt in, its holding the transverse link in place. I heard the horror stories, and after a few good whacks gave up on the idea of getting that bolt out, so I dropped the whole thing. I was doing my brakes and had to go to work the next day and all so I just did it the only way I saw that I could actually get it done. So the strut, transverse link, and drum crap all comes out as one peice (this way). You also have to unbolt 4 bolts (12mm or so) to detach each respective half shaft.

I just had a jack under my rear end to hold it in place, I forget where I put the jackstands, probably under the frame as a "just incase."

Remember we talked about this one before LoL, some guy on the board was using massive force with an air tool trying to get it out, I think he was talking some 700+ pounds? I didn't even TRY, I just dropped it off the car to do my work. Oh, it comes off easily. You will see that there are Xmembers holding that stuff in place, I just loosened them up and pulled them out at the bushing. There are two bushings on the end of that transverse link obviously, and each one is held in by a member of sorts. I used a 1/2" on one and maybe a 9/16" not sure, so figure 12/13mm or something like that to start with. I still have your 17mm socket!

R180 would probalby hold it ok if you dont drag race. If you expect to launch on good, wide rubber, slicks or not, an upgrade would be in order. You can easily find an R200 for $100-$200 complete at a yard, not exactly an expensive upgrade compared to the cost of throwing in a V8.

Not sure the turbo ECUs work like that but your right, many cars cut fuel not timing, to control RPM...

Thats the truth, the early 5 has a really screwy ratio spread. As for the rest, you caught me with my pants down, I will nominate myself for assclown of the day My car came setup with the early 5/3.90 and were probably pulled from a single donor is my guess, the fluid looked like it had been in the trans all 20+ years I look forward to the NA 5 down the road, maybe I will keep the 3.90 for awhile and see how things go.

Yep, I dont like carbs, I'm an EFI weenie. Remember the gov would love to weld those hoods shut, with these 100,000 mile tuneups cars are doing now.

http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html Just did the calc again and by gosh your right, 515 RPM difference with my 195/60 15", now I know I really need to get that trans (first the car has to run ). First gear however is actually worse between the NA 5 and the old 5, and first gear sucks I had twice pipes on the car and felt like I was racing just to get to 15 MPH and shift, putting me around 2700 RPM at 15 MPH!!! Somehow my brain confused the trans swap with the rear swap (been awhile since I ran the calcs), so going from a 3.90 to a 3.54 is the least difference of the two if I had to do one or the other first. 294RPM difference between the two rears @ 80 with a late model NA 5 speed.

Whoops, not used to hearing about the older blocks here (LS6/LS-6 etc).

Wow, yeah that is alot of overbore. 3.875" stroke (396 with .030" overbore), 402 with .040" and that would be a full .060" overbore which requires sonic checking on an LT1 block. I would be happy with a 383 myself, 396 can be done for not TOO much more money, and I guess its not THAT much stroke when you look at some other GM vehicles, but a 383 would make plenty of torque down low and the rings would last you a little bit longer (and less block clearancing). You WILL need an aftermarket pan with a 396, some 383 cranks fit in a stock pan with some hammering, but the stock pan really should be replaced anyway, especially if you road race, but even a drag car would benefit from better oil control, especially with the longer stroke making crank whippage more a problem. You could even build a 421 cube LT1, but you can believe that gets expensive.