Mudge

Momentum, the longer the air is flowing past that wheel the better your chances for it SPOOLING or spinning quickly. Just as when you shift a stick car the airflow drops, and so does the boost.

Yep, electronic valve actuation requires a ton of juice though, and basically it is not needed for a STREET car market. So millions of R&D would be considered wasted. With OBD III they are talking encryption (even though they wanted real time satelite uplinking with OBD II), which would mean even if we saw electronic VVT it would be a beach trying to play with it. Of course there is always turbo/supercharging, which brings the headroom up considerably in power levels and still passing smog, but I've liked NA stuff for so long due to simplicity and "set it and forget it" reliability. With a V8 making 500 or more HP sheesh, thats enough for me, for awhile. Car nerds like us dream of these kind of things but lets be realistic, it would cost a ton of dough to set something up, being new it would probably be problematic (ok were talking domestic here since they are the ones not touching new-tech as much), and only a handfull of people would really care. If we DID see it, I would bet we'd see it on the 4s and 6s, not so much the 8s - because it would just add too much HP and the gov would probably be pissed once people started hacking into thier cars and making 1000 HP and still passing smog. Thats looking at the upper end of the spectrum but...

Thats why some of us would like to see VVT or something in a V8, Porsche is doing it with thier cars but only one GM engine that I know of to date has it at all, and thats only on the exaust side. I still like big cams on a V8, but this is a way a high output NA could be setup and still pass smog. I'd rather VVT than VTec though. Then we'd want ion sensing ignition and all that fancy crap too.

On stainless it pretty likely is

Yeah, Twin Turbo Vipers are stock right? If a car MFG has to run 9k to turn approximately the same peak HP numbers as a larger car who gives a hoot? So they spent more to make a smaller vehicle try to play catch up with a larger engine that has it EASY. Bearings are going to wear faster, torque is going to suck, and for the most part it will not have the same capabilities of the other car if built up. Just like CPUs are nearing the end of what we can humanly do with silicon technology, building up a 1.3L 1000 HP engine is not going to have long term lastability in a street car, but it can relatively easily be done in a V8 and is done. Local guy even passes smog in his 1000 HP stock PCM car, drives it daily while the Vette sits at home. So while HP per liter does mean something to me, if my cieling on my 2 liter car is a very high revving, narrow powerband, then it is not my flavor for a streetable "race car," I like torque and I dont want to eat the bearings just getting down the track either. For that reason actually some open road racers have been building torquier motors (L98) and just driving around at 4000 RPM over 200 MPH, not something I considered but again the viewpoint is long term wear capabilities. If your driving around at 8,000+ all the time that isn't going to happen.

iPod costs some duckets though. I finally bought an MP3 player yesterday on eBay for $35 (64MB). I have avoided them for so long because I just didn't want to drop that kinda beans, but they have really come down in price now. Plus my use for them is limited, gym time only, in the cars I have stereos

Crazy? Do the math and I'd get a 200 RPM drop with a new trans. Your right the early 5 speed SUCKS, HOWEVER I still think the 3.90 is overkill for a car that sees alot of street time. I was out of first gear so damn fast that I stopped using it after awhile, the 3.90 would be great on a car with a HUGE cam that needs the gearing, otherwise I do not consider it appropriate for my own cars.

Its not just horsepower, its horsepower in a dinky little car that doesn't weigh enough to keep the tires planted. You'd also have to build the chassis up a good bit, considering these cars never made over 200 HP in thier lifetime in stock form, going around 4x what it was made to stand up to will just twist the car up.

Absolutely agreed, I almost considered one awhile back that was cheaper but again NO INTAKE and no exaust either.

That car needs to be entered in a Destruction Derby!

Looks like a Ford with a Trans Am identity crisis, could do without the stickers on the front fender.

I bet that cost $50 or less to turn into its current "race car" form.

With a 3.90 rear and early 5 speed I'm in 4th by 35 minimum, if I'm cruising I'm in 5th gear 35+ MPH, I think this rear end sucks with my tire setup, trans setup, and just in general for a street car. It really makes me feel like its the 60s all over again, 3400-3800 RPM on the freeway is ridiculous WITH OVERDRIVE.

The Vette LT1 also had four bolt mains, as for bigger injectors, I dont believe I've heard that but it wouldn't really matter anyway as the stock 24# wouldn't really be pushed just yet. 22# were on the early cars however.

300 RWHP in a Z is way beyond a bit of power, thats more than most people experience in thier lifetime, except for those that own a stock car that puts out those numbers (and weighs more).

No way, I would pay to see that car in person.

LoL, I'll have to remember that one

The auction says "you are bidding on a set of four" for $300 Buy It Now.

The problem is though they wanted to win, the first gen Camaro is not aerodynamic for a hill of beans compared to the Road Runner, or many of todays modern cars.

30 pounds each, what in frig is he boxing them up in?

Nothin beats having some down low torque on tap Those cars are around the 3400# range, a little lighter than the LT1 (by about 70 pounds roughly). Try pushing one up even a modest hill sometime, it sucks!

Oh I see, so you dont have wiring to actuate it right now and you dont know how it works normally or what it takes to make it work period, gotcha. I'll ask around, I'd suggest you post on CamaroZ28.com about it though, someone is bound to know.

I'm not sure how the rev lockout works, I would think it takes a signal from the VSS, why would you want to turn it off??? I'll take a look in Tunercat tonight and see if there is anything in there for it.