Mudge

I dont think Hondas belong boosted, stick to already turboed engines. If you look at Cheezfrog sure his ride was fast! For awhile, then it blew up. I dont think making an under 2 liter car "fast" is cheap any way you slice it, when it comes to reliability, not my preference either.

Wish I coulda been there

The aftermath http://sys12.cs.jmu.edu/hawleycj/vids/aftermath-low.WMV

A stock Z28 PCM will ONLY do stoich closed loop, unless I screw up the BLMs, which is not wise.

I myself can't stand the 3.90, 3400-3800 RPM on the freeway with the early 5 speed (.864 5th).

Geez, simple little item too. They aren't willing to go to a round top setup? If that helps(?)

I must have missed something. If your running FI definately get a better alternator, injectors suck juice, + computer etc that will need reliable power input. Many of todays injected cars run over 100A alternators.

Not sure that I agree with that, but it is aluminum - if you really want big numbers go with an iron block. If nothing else you at least will avoid some twisting forces, which will cause wear and possible failure.

I'm shooting for a 3.54 and ZX 5 speed, T5 is another choice but I prefer to stick to the NA close ratio.

That is strange... Scrapped is the correct spelling, I wasn't sure was scraped was What were you looking for exactly? I know the half shafts are like gold, and alot of other things are tough to come by as well, like hydraulic lifters.

If you look at the numbers, its the truth. With his new wheels, he should have substantially more grip than the teeny 8" ers before.

Darius runs an LT1 and I HIGHLY doubt its stock bottom, if it is then he is amazingly lucky to have it hold together. You will not be running much boost on a stock LT1 or LS1 without high risk of short rod life, if you dont lose a piston first. 500 HP is not such a big deal, going north of that is where the risk lies - you'd be best to rebuild if you went with an LS1. Unlike Ford, these engines are built with high compression and should really remain NA unless you open em up.

I will post a pic of what needs to come off the back of the Auto flexplate for those not aware of it what it takes to do the swap. We noticed that the hole sizes were very different, so there was no way the trans was just going in place like that

For 3 grand, I'd much rather do the cam, or a turbo swap + cam and more.

I remember a post on a Vette board, where a guys C3 was destroyed after a lift collapsed. I forget if there was a car underneath to get ruined also, hmm. Experience like that would make me lose my bowels

Carbs dont generally like to be pressurized, main problem seems to be simply keeping fuel in the bowl. A mild turbo setup may work though, but who wants mild

I never changed a thing on my tune once all was said and done and drove it daily to work, to the gym, to the tracks I hit and so on. I ran as lean as 15.1:1 but know someone who went 15.2:1, he just gave up more timing. Again I do agree that closed loop is the way to stay for most people, but with my own experience I do not believe for a second closed loop is exponentially better somehow. The only adjustment my car ever needed was done via the MAF. Open loop = set it and forget it, no worries about minute exaust leaks that go undiscovered for a week, and again better gas mileage in the right hands. As for dyno time, it runs me $100 an hour, so 8 hour tuning sessions like some people do aren't in the cards for me. Wideband setup of my own would be very nice to have someday though.

Dont forget to add in a SHUTUP switch

Smooth what out exactly, the intake runner? If your working on an intake runner dont polish it, remove casting flash if you spot it but an intake is not to be polished internally on a street car. Low end response actually likes a little bit of a rough pathway.

No intercooler, supposedly adds about 50-75 HP I think I heard? Not worth it, I feel positive that is why you "can't" find anyone that runs it. Check Zcar.com though if you haven't already, if anyone does run it they may be there.

Interesting, for a really high-po job I'd want the iron block, for most stuff though the aluminum is probaly ok, although being an L6 rigidity is not going to be the same as a V6 which is "half the length."

Well, I tried to see what is up with the clutch pedal inhibitor, there is a sensor in the general area but I'm not sure its the correct one or how it would be hooked up, its right next to the clutch pedal though with 2 wires. I would assume it could be the one, since I know someone who had to swap thiers out to get the car started and running again, getting my head under the dash is no easy task so I think I will leave it at a shrug

You can program it, put a resistor in line, or on 94 cars simply unhooking it SUPPOSEDLY does nothing wrong nor set a SES, however I have heard a 95 person say it fried the skip shift and made it stick? I programed mine out ages ago, or simply drive harder!

Only Lingenfelter that I'm aware of, although it was a truck AWD is too much worry for me, I thought about a Suby for a beater, but as a performance platform I am just to paranoid about the drivetrain, so I will be in the dark for awhile on that matter.