Mudge

Dropping the oil pump giving my laziness these days would suck, but it could be done I spose, and it would mean trying to find one from a regular Z which may not be fun/easy, plus time consuming. I will try to find a ZX one on the boards, eBay is dry right now.

The ZX loses something like 3" to the firewall placement.

I notice the older distributor has the old timer plastic gear that runs off the cam, where the ZXT (which I currently have) has no such thing. So my question is to go to an NA setup (the head was shaved so it has more compression than stock), can I use any old distributor and figure out how to get it to work or do I need to camp out until I can find a 280ZX distributor?

Yes, A arm setup, PITA to swap I bet - HUGE, I would not bother. Perhaps you mean the newer cars though which I know nothing about.

Wonder how it would fit, if at all.

They just wont accept PayPal. I sent a check, provided we are speaking about Bowling and Grippo.

You can debate how tire sizes affect handling all day long, another thing to consider though is you have "less grip" on the rear because of the torque forces induced by the engine as well as the cornering.

Even 255s look like crap on an 8" wide wheel, but the Vettes had 16x9.5" and can accomidate a 255-265 wide tire which they do make. However for race tires 245s are easier to find, http://www.tirerack.com have you tried them?

I have seen two on the streets within the last year, one of them I see regularly. They are small, but I know my dad likes those kind of tiny cars. I am not sure if its a 1600 or 2000, either way its kind of neat, very small and definitely very old

Ditto, I would still like to use it.

You can figure it out on BLMs and using a calculator, but I still suggest the dyno. I payed $100 an hour.

Thats great, minus the bars near your head.

Its got a 4 bolt bottom, it doesn't make power past that because it has a tiny cam, there is nothing wrong with revving it to 7k other than the crappy valve springs and the fact that it wont make power anyway. I repeat my 2 bolt say 7k RPM with no problems and many of us have done so, with a 3.48" stroke, and all the way up to the 4.25" stroke guys have done so as well. Now I'd prefer shorter stroke of course, but if all you want is around 6k any engine will do virtually if the top end will take it and the bottom end is not ready to die. This isn't the 1940s anymore.

Have you tried looking at any Hypertech files?

Ford 302 is light, and has a 3" stroke by default. You can squeeze a 5.4" rod in there, I am not sure about larger being possible but I have read of using 5.7" Chevy rods so something must be possible with the stock stroke. Plus you dont have to give up a bootload of cubes and there is plenty of aftermarket for the Ferd. Nice 3" stroke will keep your piston velocity down, but are you really planning on 10,000 RPM? Its going to cost money to build that either way. The only thing holding you back is you possibly using an old old old junkyard block. I ran 7k RPM on my 3.48" stroke LT1 on the stock bottom end, with NO problems, 2 bolt caps and all. 6k RPM is NOTHING, and this is exactly why it is ridiculous to go for an ultra short stroke giving up cubes on a street car, there are 3.875" stroke /6" rod cars doing 7k RPM all day long. Alot of these setups are not even running full floating wrist pins.

What kind of car is it? Wetards Len do you want this turbo stuff man? Finding anything for me? I have the J pipe, rail, and dis off but the intake looks like its going to be a beach. Otherwise its eBay time

Ditto, plus you dont have to expect someone else to do a half assed job. I have seen "pro tuners" leave stuff @ WOT with 14.0:1 AF ratios, freaking hack jobs, RIPOFF. I prefer DIY even if it were to cost more up front, unfortunately LS1 Edit is $550? Tunercat keeps saying any day now when I ask but obviously not out yet.

B&M makes a "ripper" for the T56, I would have gone Pro 5.0

Quality padding at that, there is crappy stuff and good stuff, and I dont even know how much the good stuff will help you if you headbutt it at 20 MPH+ collision.

Agreed, I helped push start a Honda in my complex, lowered, body kit, exaust header. After we had it push started he asked me why it sounded the way it did (loud and kinda crappy), he popped the hood and I saw clearly the O2 sensor was not in the header all the way, so before the car got too hot (headers get hot wicked fast) I carefully tried to put the O2 in the bung and he said "oh, its stripped" and I told him well thats your problem right there. Not only will the car not run optimally, but its obviously a fat exaust leak, and he admitted then that he didn't know much about cars, but he still had a couple mods (the lowering job, header and obligatory rice kit). He also has a sticker on his rear view mirror that says TURBO CLUTCH, whatever that is supposed to imply.

Sweet, your lucky you had a backup, and a cheap one at that. I have seen up to $100 for them The diz on the 82-83 handles the timing functions that the ECU needs, I forget the pinout but you can test the values somewhat with a DVM or a regular volt meter. Glad it works though!

You only have + to the injectors, the ECU on the ZXT throws ground to fire the injectors, so an analog meter would probably show this best. Or if you rotate the diz by hand, you can hear the injectors click off, I had them hooked up one at a time so I could test each one. Originally only two of my injectors were 'clicking' at all. They all fire simultaneously. If you look at the wiring schematic you see green and black, and one of those is a common ground (black I think but I forget, and Nissan did things very backwards of how is done today) all shorted to each other which is tripped at some point.

Yep, all electronically shifted 4L60 has an E on the end, the 93 Camaro was just a 4L60 with an ECU, engine control unit, instead of PCM Powertrain Control Module.