Mudge

IMHO, waste of time. Unless you go aftermarket FI your not going to rev over 7k and we have done that on the stock bottoms all day long, and who really wants a cam so nasty that you need 9,500 RPM?

Link no good?

Thats not bad, the stock passenger manifold on the OBD I cars has an O2.

Ideally they should be mounted in the header, unless they are block huggers.

If your putting down power your just going to spin the who-haa out of those tires anyway. You can find R180 3.36s easier than the R200, people charge LSD prices for those rare 3.36 R200s when I find them, which I think I have seen 2 ever.

Not only would the 5 speed not be the best for drag, it will not adapt to a V8 without expense, and then your just going to break it anyway. The back of a Chevy V8 looks nothing like the back of a straight 6 import engine, then the splined shaft is your next issue, getting the clutch to work, yada yada. Get a T5 if you want a 5 speed.

Serious collector items, like Len said even that 3.36 is damn near impossible to find, people charge out the bunghole for them.

GM TopEnd cleaner, SeaFoam, there are many - in the gas, oil, or sucked into the engine via vacuum lines.

That is not a P90 head right? It looks open chamber to me?

Polished and/or coated would be a good idea on any turbo car

I have to admit, that would be one car that would not look bad without a hood I guess a cowl is easy enough to obtain...

This makes it sound then that shorties may not be readily possible without some serious steering relocation or ?

Amazingly even the stock setup does ok with the different O2 location, EGT is an exaust gas temp sensor

Vacuum leak should show up as very high map, if its an LT4 Hotcam it should probably idle around 50 MAP, if its 60+ something is amiss. There is also a HIGH MAP code when its pretty bad.

Can be rings, or valve stem seals. Compression test should tell you about the rings, if the numbers are very uneven, or go up significantly with a teaspoon of oil in the cyl then its the rings. I dont know the percentage but if you have 140 average on the 'good' cylinders, and one of them is 70, then at least one of them needs a ring job badly. You can alsy try thicker oil, I had been using 20w/50, there is straight 30, 50, and 60 also.

To me it is a matter of the valve wanting to work itself sideways increasing friction on the valve stem surface and the guide itself.

Hate to bump a slightly old thread - do shorties work fine or is there a certain type of block hugger that is recommended? Something with 1 5/8" primaries would be snazzy. Looks like these worked, whatever they be http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_personal.php?user_id=2311

Wow, removing that much of the valve guide makes me nervous, looks like an aggressive job but I'm not a porter so I dont know. I suppose if the spring pressure isn't too insane, and you get a quality guide or guide insert along with possibly fresh valves, could be something that would last.

In the GM world Canfield was hailed as the allmighty, but thier support for the LT1 dropped due to getting in the game a little late

Unfortunately dyno rating in those days was what we call dishonest by todays standards. The allmighty ZL1 was putting out under 400 HP, in stock form. I agree though, getting a small engine to make big top end requires RPM and generally, expense, and precise machinery. Bike engines would be one great place to look, there are 600cc bikes now putting out 100RWHP stock, not even 1 liter, but again look at thier ~14k peak powerbands. I am curious about the engine aspects though I have run into an F1 guy on a board, who says the engines are "nothing anything closely related" to street car stuff and it would be ridiculous to try and steal opinions. I am sure this is only semi true, I am aware that they had run oval pistons for a time, must be quite interesting stuff. Why pay so much for an engine close to maxed out though? When you can for less money, make streetable and affordable power with a V8. Now if weight is a concern or liters for a race class, then you obviously have no choice. FWIW Honda had a 250cc V8 engine which I believe had a 22 or 24k redline, this would have been many moons ago.

I have encountered MANY a Honda that have been louder than my 411 RWHP Camaro on the street. Even with open exaust on the street it never seemed that annoying, the bullhorn tips really give some effect on those cars. I had twice pipes (glasspacks) on my 240Z and it was kind of loud, Lens car was a bit quiet but sounded really nice what that muffler.

Usually people seem to abstain from touching the short side radius but I dont see much that could be done either... ?

The only thing I can liken to that is horsepower, 1 horse can move xx pounds xx distance in xx seconds.

Ok, I will look within that range then. Thanks Out of curiosity, are they 23º heads or ?