Mudge

Great info, thanks So the 86 is SD (speed density) then I take it instead of MAF. I was planning to start with a carbed setup but I am an EFI lover, so if I can get it all in one fell swoop I guess I just need to make sure I get a donor car, or get the wiring harness. Is there a relatively easy way to know which vehicles got the aluminum heads/intake? I am going to assume all injected Mustangs had aluminum heads, but probably the other passenger cars did not(?)

Ouch!

87+ is roller cam for the 5.0 correct?

Sounds like lean and hot on that side...

Cygnus, my 73 has the stock downpipe, I just bent the metal tab out of the way and put header wrap around that portion of the exaust for about 4". I think its one of the Scotties that does a 3" DP and 3" exaust for these cars.

Have you tested TPS per Chiltons? Have you looked at the IAC counts? For a stock car it should idle in the 40s or so.

Yes, its happened to people local to me. You can do a leakdown to see whats going on, but likely there is at least one bent valve. If the pistons are ok, then at least he can grab some used heads for $200-$300, I got a set for $230 shipped a few months ago in great shape, other than being dirty.

Automatic rev limiter is 500 RPM less according to my reading (forget which manual).

It sure can, low/high res pulse error, I've had it myself when I found oil and coolant inside my 94 Optipuke.

Not only is it possible, but there is no idle in the PCM higher than I believe 1200 or 1250, you have a vacuum leak perhaps and possibly its not even entering closed loop?

It would be extremely bizzare for the O2 to be responsible for the car not starting, in fact I have never heard of it even when they are completely dead (car will stay in OL) so its not likely. Unplug the battery or ECU/ECM/PCM fuse and see if that makes a change when it doesn't start, I am guessing it wont make a difference. In which case, maybe an injector is dying or something? How do the plugs look? It really really helps to be able to datalog.

From when I recall looking at the wiring pinouts, the 81 wiring, computer, and timing are different. You would need to change the wiring around with an 82-83 "upgraded" setup, get the distributor, and ignition setup. You would probably only need the mini EFI wiring portion of the harness but I'm not sure. The 82-83 wiring harness is "more self contained" as I hear it described.

I used a slightly different looking one and it works great on my 82, I forget if the donor was an 83 or what. Either way I had no spark before and I have spark now.

Depends how hosed they are. If its not that bad, it will simply give the car split BLMs, now if its running 11.5:1 on one side and 14.6:1 on the other, its probably going to run kind of crappy. But if the computer is dumb (being old), and its not that far out of range, then it wont know any better - thats where logging comes in. If the O2s are 30k miles + old on a car of that generation the O2(s) are due for replacement. Nowdays they last 80-100+k miles.

I bought stockers on eBay for probably under $20 and repainted them a silverish color. I'm all about cheap, not big on the blingy blingy, there have been some nice chrome covers made though.

Me too, something must be up with the machinery or something at the local processing plant. Forest, I never really get mail all that bad of shape either, not your fault man, something is up with the local postmaster in your area I think machinery wise.

Yep, I was trying to think to myself, why would this be all torn up? It couldn't have felt like it was jewelry and nobody ships it that way (in an envelope) I'm lost on that one, but yep I got 3 of them, the tears were strange too like it did maybe get caught in machinery, but it was fairly bad. I dont know what procedure is for that stuff, but I about would have expected them to ship it back, but I dunno.

I've carried a short block, but with heads/intake forget it, flat out too bulky anyway I think. Should improve weight distro since it sits further back, I've been dreaming of the 5 oh myself.

Yummy, I want one

Should be around 2 minutes to get those O2 sensor(s) warmed up.

Hmm, is this going off the other lead or do you happen to recall?

I thought the 77 was the perfect year to own, but dont quote me on that. Bump for ya

94-95 much easier to work with, and cheaper, as far as electronics go. 93 would be another choice, but requires PROM burning equipment, using a 94-95 harness or figuring it out yourself is possible. 96-97 is OBD II and costs $550 to program at home last time I checked, and has more diagnostics codes, including a crank position sensor which does not allow for using a double roller chain (easily), yada yada. I own a 94, 95 is considered the "perfect year" because of these niceties.

Uhh, they sort of fit, but yes the alternator is a problem. So most often people use a hammer or do a little home welding, Mark Montalvo has used some of the big Moroso covers this way, re-welding. Another option is to get a $200 or so adapter to use older SBC stuff, its just a spacer essentially and I supposed it will come with a gasket or you may need 4 total. Easy way to figure this out is pull the other valve cover, it wont fit with the alternator.

Yeah, I was considering using some stand offs, I think I have some spares.