Mudge

On these kind of posts, put NWS or NOT WORK SAFE, I've seen this one before...

No time soon for me either but I searched on 3 boards and one email list, and I got no good feedback in long term situations, however they dont know machine work like Mike so who knows. I am going to stick to R200 rears for the interest of longevity, and thusly a welded or PG setup doesn't go along with the longevity thing, I would rather set it, and forget it, and have the performance. I still dont like the prices, but that is the market for these cars, good rear setup costs what the car does.

You should be able to get an F54 for way under $500 and throw your current top end on there. Rod/stroke ratio is nice, but you are not going to be revving to the moon, you aren't going to try to pull 500,000 miles out of it I imagine (even so I'm sure it would do it if you treat it right and keep the valve stem seals etc "maintained"). I just dont see it as enough of a difference really, and ultimately without high RPM the side loading forces are not that much different, but for that little extra you could do it if you wanted, I tend to look at things as performance to price ratio, and $500 for another couple pounds of torque here or there compared to the old setup, and then shaving pistons down (machine work and labor $), just doesn't seem worth it unless you are going "all out." Shoot, for $500 you could buy a whole donor car with another engine of choice and swap that, or even less.

Corrosion buildup can do that yep.

Replied to your PM

It seems to be the in, rebellious thing, to act as if the USA is some big Nazi regime, 1984, Farenheit 451, what have you. We are being kept down by the maaaaaaaan...

You can put carbs on the car yes. http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2824/engine.html

Some people dont like them in important places, but heli coils rock IMO. I had them put on my heads (aluminum though). There is stuff stronger than heli coil but dont recall off the top of my head, have to ask around on what kind of TQ they could stand.

Ok, I fixed the subject up a bit

Anyone have an idea why I would blow the ACC wiring portion of the fusible link section? The wire went up in smoke the first time, so unhooked the battery and tried to see why, didn't figure anything out so jumpered where the wire was before and it does it again. I have to assume this means there is a short somewhere so I will track it down on the harness (going to try anyway). This is on the fusible link strand, which is coming off the + battery terminal and going to the FI part of the harness.

There is one person on the board using one, 73BOTIZ, maybe if you PM him he can tell you how it is first hand.

Rears for these cars aren't cheap unless they are open yeah. Other cars can get Torsen diffs (like a Quaife) for $300+, that is one area the Z guys get reamed.

http://fod.anitrade.net/html/ayiabtu.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1113&item=3510260648

I haven't really heard good feedback yet. I heard of someone who liked it for about 2 weeks, at which point the unit started losing strength. Then another poster talked about the metal chunks in their rear end, so basically from what I can tell it is snake oil. Are you drag racing or AutoX/RR? $360 for a couple aluminum blocks and springs seems ridiculous.

No prob, if my comments are quirky, I'll blame it on lack of sleep.

It shouldn't run at 180º unless you get a 160º thermo or thereabouts. They begin to open at thier rated temp, they dont fully open for awhile, and 180º or higher coolant temp would be better for all around gas mileage etc anywho.

http://www.gaspricewatch.com

LT1s have a special thermostat and the reversed circulation, I didn't know it was an LT1 car, or is it not? From your sig I'm not guessing it is. Basically if you bought a $5 thermostat its SBC not LT1, if you payed $15-$20 its the right one.

Agreed, right or wrong is something that is usually tought, some things are almost unanimous like beating babies to death, but even that has a place in certain societies. Eskimos and Chinese will both do it, and in China fetus' are even eaten for "health," yet this would seem discusting and wrong at least to me. Just as the US is the great white devil to many in the middle east, and must be killed for living the way we do.

Premium is about 10 cents a gallon more here, so for $1.80 that would buy me 18 gallons of 91 instead of 89, hence why I said it was a waste That tiny little bottle will raise you maybe 3 points, it is not a magic potion, people somehow think 3 points means 92-94 octane which is by far not going to happen. Just wanted to make sure you were aware

I saw a sign on a car the other day KEEP AWAY FROM ME YOU F___ING LIBERAL PANSIES

DO NOT waste your money on that crap, going from 89 to 89.3 isn't going to do a damn thing, it would be cheaper to buy premium. OR just buy a gallon or two of Tolulene for $8-$11. I saw $2.24 for premium this morning, sad to say that is after it has gone down. Just a handfull of years ago it was 1.35 and I was waiting for it to drop again, now a few extra cents doesn't seem like a big deal versus a whole freaking buck!!!

I have cut stock springs in front and 2+2 cut in back, and even with this "ghetto" setup it handles just freaking amazingly. With some bigger rubber and a little more work, it seriously is like owning a race car.