Mudge

I dont recall hearing anything better than 10 MPG yet, but I dont see why they couldn't do better. I dont now how many people are hopping on dynos with carb cars though.

Ok, looks like air to water is used for below ambient temps, with a seperate WP and rad.

I'm glad you know what your doing then I wish I could stick some 275s on the car, man that would be some serious STICK I'm worried about breaking stuff, which is why at one point I thought C4 stuff front/rear, but who knows if/what and when will happen. I will be stuck with 15x7" for awhile.

Cold air should do not a thing for sound, seriously a low backpressure exaust, on a truck will open up the floodgates of sound. Less bends in the pipe compared to the V8 cars of today with over the axle pipe etc, and trucks will hands down put out more DB and more resonance. As for the cam, the Dodges I hear do have a bit of a lope to them, I dont know the firing order but that is one thing that has made the Fords sound so nice for years.

Look at your HP goals, and your expected fuel pressure to get a better guess on fuel needs. Are you looking for 250 HP or 275 or?

I dont see how you wouldn't, since the output of an AFM and a MAP sensor is not likely to be the same, and they work rather backwards of each other. Low MAP output = light throttle, and vice versa, where higher output from an AFM means more air flow, so they really not not similar in terms of output. Frequency/voltage output (the important part to the computer) is definately going to be different. I've thought about using computers from other cars, since Tunercat can play with some of them (Typhoon, etc), and if you could get a setup going for $100-$300 that is fully functional with a 2 bar map sensor or thereabouts, heck thats better than $1000-$3000. I think it would be a fun project too, and you could poke fun at all the people who payed $2500 or so for thier MoTeC setups

My point is that going too wide for the wheel will cause sidewall rollover and cause loss of grip versus a smaller width wheel. The most serious road racers I know, and setups I come across all follow this rule. The older Supra racers likewise go from thier stock 225 to a 205 tire because of this rollover, on a 7" wide wheel. I would love 225s but wont do it without more wheel. Some people try to compensate by running very high PSI, like the Camaro Mustang Challenge guys running 44 PSI I believe on 255/50 on a 16x8" wheel, they wont last as long as if they were on a 9" wide wheel either of course. I am not an expert, and I am quite positive Ed you have more experience than I do, I just wanted to understand why. I wanted 225s also but was told to avoid it for these reasons, and I have a lengthy explanation from an SCCA/NASA/Open Road racer if you'd like me to post it.

Yep, they have been selling upgraded internals for awhile now though. The input/output shafts however are not compatible, and thier clutch setup isn't the same either. The 1993 Fbod T56 was rated at 400#, thanks to its first gear. Since I dont drag though it was never a concern for me.

That sounds like a redneck mistake waiting to happen. Re-using old stuff is one thing, that can be done, but doggonit you better balance the goodies. I once in awhile hear of people not balancing things but they are so rare, and that is just not a setup that will last long or rev high, nor will it be smooth. False economy in the biggest way.

6 speed truck? Nice. Ford seems to have engine problems from time to time, but at least they are trying to do something interesting where GM has gotten a little boring. I still dont like Ford putting tiny little engines in everything though, 4.6L just sounds like a go-kart to me, when you stick it in a heavy 3500-3800 pound car.

There are a few different possibilities, I can't tell exactly other than the obvious - its a tripple carb setup, probably with no choke. They seem to get poor MPG, plus the no choke doesn't make it that great in cold weather for a street car. They are also extremely expensive from what I've seen, not worth it IMO unless your in some kind of race organization that restricts you to using carbs only. With that in mind, other than the cool factor, there are modded SU cars making at least 287 HP if there are not cars in the 300+ range now. So being a budget kind of person I dont see a reason to go to tripples other than "wow" factor which I think is ricey unless it somehow serves a purpose. Better AF distribution I could take as a reason, but it sure is an expensive way to do it, I'd likely get a custom intake before that.

These guys have been around for awhile, even the heavy 3800 pound drag guys are doing ok into the mid-high 10s with the stock T56, thats about thier limit though it seems when on slicks. Mid 10s and below and they start breaking, some last longer than others. In a lightweight Z car, the trans should see easy high 9s I'd think before problems may arise. With the LS1 T56 stuff though I dunno, people swear they are weaker but they seem to do ok for the most part.

I think I agree with Bushido, I was pretty convinced I was going to do an LT1 swap... but have since picked up a turbo car. You have the potential for good MPG and great HP/TQ, and the engine plugs right in.

Find junkyards and start hunting now. Is it only the wiring harness that is toasted, or are you sure yet?

Alot of people try to stick to modest port volume for street apps, however there are people with hogged out heads making awesome torque and HP with small cams. Example would be 15º SBC on a late model LT1, cam is about a 234/24x and makes about 650 HP @ 6600 RPM. I forget the torque figure but it was much more than I expected and at I think a peak of 2800 RPM or so, the intake runner was around 220. The setup was created by what I'd call a master engine builder, so even with big heads it still stays within a pretty modest RPM band and makes freakish TQ, something the LT1s are not really known for since they are sort of a compromise/bridge between the L98/LS1.

So we don't get them one by one, here's the list of all the Lucas jokes in fond honor of Lucas, Prince of Darkness: The Lucas motto: "Get home before dark." Lucas denies having invented darkness. But they still claim "sudden, unexpected darkness" Lucas--inventor of the first intermittent wiper. Lucas--inventor of the self-dimming headlamp. The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF. The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE. The original anti-theft devices--Lucas Electric products. "I've had a Lucas pacemaker for years and have never experienced any prob... If Lucas made guns, wars would not start either. Did you hear about the Lucas powered torpedo? It sank. It's not true that Lucas, in 1947, tried to get Parliament to repeal Ohm's Law. They withdrew their efforts when they met too much resistance. Did you hear the one about the guy that peeked into a Land Rover and asked the owner "How can you tell one switch from another at night, since they all look the same?" "He replied, it doesn't matter which one you use, nothing happens!" Back in the '70s Lucas decided to diversify its product line and began manufacturing vacuum cleaners. It was the only product they offered which didn't suck. Quality Assurance phoned and advised the Engineering guy that they had trouble with his design shorting out. So he made the wires longer. Why do the English drink warm beer? Lucas made the refrigerators, too. Alexander Graham Bell invented the Telephone. Thomas Edison invented the Light Bulb. Joseph Lucas invented the Short Circuit. Recommended procedure before taking on a repair of Lucas equipment: check the position of the stars, kill a chicken and walk three times sunwise around your car chanting: "Oh mighty Prince of Darkness protect your unworthy servant." Lucas systems actually uses AC current; it just has a random frequency.

I dont know hardly a thing about turbos or intercoolers, so I'm new to this whole thing. Anyone given thought to air to water setup? If using regular coolant water, then it would be running at least as warm as the coolant temp (obviously), but I have no idea what kind of warmth is seen through a regular intercooler. It seems hard to imagine air heating up that much, but in talking with blower guys I know that they also watch thier air intake temps and it does get rather high. Any idea which is better? Primarily with road race in mind, soooooooo air velocity would not be a problem with an air only intercooler. Ultimately I'm looking for plus or minus to both. I guess location would be more flexible with an air to water setup, so long as I can get water to it one way or another. Front mounted radiator style could be exposed to rocks perhaps (bad), although also leaves open the possibility of running a fan(s) to it?

They are still going to weigh more and are lower compression. Since they are the same casting, I'd rather have the aluminum head. The 1997 Fbody has the same flow as the Impy iron heads, the 93 however has the most raw material to remove for the ultimate in LT1 flow, without getting LT4/AFR or adapting SBC heads.

The Eibachs are a dual rate spring IIRC, so they have a soft portion and a 'stiff' second portion, some people like that. I prefer a semi stiff car, except when my back acts up, then its hell. On the 240Z I just have stock springs with 1.5 coils cut in front, and 2+2 in the back, how much cut I dont know. On my Camaro I have 600# fronts (stock 292), and 140-160# rears (stock around 130#), along with Koni DA.

http://www.azbcsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=azspeed&Product_Code=ASM-1018 $12 a foot, if the link doesn't work for you lemme know. AZ Speed and Marine is the seller of the product.

They will support 335 @ 100% DC, if you are going to run them on a stock 30 PSI pressure and they are rated at 43 PSI then correct, they will NOT do it nor will they come close. If they were rated for 43 and you ran them @ 30 psi, they would be good for a measly 233 HP. Plus the thought of maxed out injectors never suited me. Most boost folk I know of shoot for 65-75% DC, NA people push it a bit more, with 85% being acceptable. You can find 30-42# stuff pretty cheaply on eBay, but again they are largely going to be high imp. I'd try to find an old set of Supra injectors or something along those lines. Another thing to consider, if you dont raise your fuel pressure, since these output less than stock, you will lean the car out across the board which could be bad.

Bah, an exaust will make any truck sound mean, if it has a V8 that is I like your DynoButt2000 comment LoL

He is probably a bit uneducated, aka clueless. I understand the feeling "why dont you just get a different engine" because I feel that way sometimes, frankly rebuilding an entire car you could just about build it from scratch anyway. Obviously that brings several problems into play, money, time, fabrication skills, yada yada. The optispark swap is common and is under $300 for the whole setup, so its not the cost of going to another engine, unless you get an old school setup.

Dont make me get a PS2 just for this crap I used to hack the cars a bit in Test Drive 5, however there must have been CRC checking because it never worked right in multiplayer games. The format was easy to play with because everything was in ZIP, the chassis included engine info, and then you had the body, and I think the wheel style was seperate (forget). So basically you end up with your body of choice on your chassis/powertrain of choice, but I never got around to figuring out what method they used for power numbers etc for real fun.

They should be good for about 335 HP, keep in mind what PSI they are rated at though. If they are rated at 39-43 PSI and you want to run them on a 30 PSI system, they wont be good for nearly as much.