jtl260z

I was wondering if anyone out there has toyed with the idea of a copper intake/exhaust gasket? The factory and aftermarket gaskets seem to be either crap or one step above crap. I am considering having one produced and tested. The only problem I could possibly see would be the cost, but it would be worth it in the long run, especially for anyone running a modified Z. Your input is greatly appreciated.

Unisyns work but only for balancing the 2 carbs. I don't think there is a cheap way to measure cfm, but I could be wrong.

6 MPG is a little bad...I get 9 MPG city and 28 MPG highway (at 100 MPH). Of course, the 9 MPH city is my fault because my 260 is heavily modified and I was born with a lead foot.

Since you are building a drift car, I was wondering what spring rates did you go with and if you have tried them on the streen yet? J

I have order from Top End Performance several times over the years and have never had an issue. Maybe I'm just lucky that way.

Check out www.racetep.com Knowledgeable guys over there with years of z-car racing experience.

You would have to pay me to take a 280zx...Nothing is better than a S30!

Kidney stones suck. I had my first run in with them about 10 years ago. I still say that breaking my shin bone in half was the worst pain for me.

No park ability yet but it works great and for $27 the price was right.

I didn't have problems getting the Honda motors to work they just didn't last that long and they weren't strong enough for my liking. I installed a wiper motor out of a 1999 Mazda Miata this weekend and not only is it easier to install than the Honda motor it is also stronger/faster.

The wire going to the switch should be hot. When the pedal is depressed the switch connects the two wires and supplies your brake bulbs with power. Check your fuse and your connections behind the fuse box. If you don't have any luck there you can always steal power from another constant source. Good luck.

I am going to try a Miata wiper first. I picked one up for $27.00 and my ex girlfriend has a Miata I can figure out the wiring from. If that doesn't work I will try the $140.00 option.

I use Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer because I hate the smell of gear oil and it works great.

I don't recall who I originally purchased mine from but I didn't get mine from Black Dragon. I am sure there is more than one source for those parts.

Check your metering valve in the float bowl and also check your jets to make sure their not clogged.

I've done the Honda conversion twice on my 260z (without getting park to work). After the second one died I have decided to go a different route. I am going to do a new motor conversion (motor comes with switch, 2 speeds+park). I am planning to get my switch to work in place of the supplied one. All for about $140.00 and a warranty. Pretty cheap for a reliable wiper system. When I get everything installed and working I will post the information.

240z with cv axels?...I think you mean halfshafts. If you do have cv axels, it's been converted and there is no telling if they will work.

Descent product. I've had them on my 260 for a few years now with no problems. Way better than stock.

Stock or modified ignition? I am running a Crane HI-6 ignition box, XR3000 optically triggered igition and a LX92 coil. I have absolutely no problem getting my 260Z to the redline.

Sounds like your carbs need a good cleaning. If they have been sitting for a while they will gum up a little. With your rear carb piston in the up position you might have flooded the back 3 cylinders. You should be able to lift each carb piston to the top, let go, and watch it drop. You can do a basic clean by first removing the dashpot then the piston. Clean the piston with carb cleaner and reinstall. Make sure you apply the proper amount and weight of oil in the top of the carbs 20 W is recommended (I like ATF). Don't forget to check you plugs. You may need to clean or replace them. Good luck.

Have you done any other brake upgrades? If you haven't you need to upgrade your master cylinder to a 280zx larger bore. Other than that, bleed, bleed and bleed some more. BTW, I would replace those dented grease caps and put them on with a socket or pipe that fits the outer lip so you don't dent the cap.

Iridium and platinum plugs are useless unless you are running a direct ignition system on a fuel injected motor. You will get more reliability out of set of copper NGK's at a much cheaper price. If you want a little more "spark" try running the NGK's without the "R" and a high output ignition system.

You would be better off going with a Ground Control kit for $399.00.

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