Yes...as long as you can find your size. Runflats are no different than regular tires other than the reinforced sidewall and weight (almost twice as much).
I think drifting is here to stay...The two issues are $$$ and location. Yes, tires are expensive but most drifters I know buy used. I would have to say that the #1 issue is that most cities don't have a track set up for drifting.
People have been drag racing on the streets since the invention of the automobile. You can't exactly drift around the neighborhood for practice.
$20000.00 is a good deal if it's true.
The 09' GTR's are know for transmission failure from launching.
When purchasing a GTR the paperwork you have to sign off on warns you of the potential failure and that it is not covered under warranty.
BTW the tranny costs around $15000 + labor.
If I remember correctly, the bolts for the mustache bar bolt in from the top next to the rear strut tower. You will have to remove your original vinyl (if you haven't already) to get to the bolt heads.
Yes, my cage is a Jegs.
It wasn't that difficult to install and I strayed from the original plans.
It all depends on how much modification you want to do.
Good luck!
I could be wrong, but if I remember correctly from my Nissan parts days, the roller bearing is a stock part on some of the 300zx models. Not to mention, other car lines use a roller as factory equipment as well.
None of todays cars have the rain drip rails.
There must be a reason for that..Cars do look much better without them. I removed mine for appearance reasons only.
While going fast and straight is great...I love going sideways better.
I installed one about a year and a half ago with no problems to date.
My original solid bushing had to be removed with a dent puller (thankfully, no damage to the crank).
My 260 used to be my daily driver. I even sold a brand new car I had just because I prefered to drive the z (even without ac). A large portion of my Z project is almost complete and then she will be back as a daily driver.
It's the driver that makes it dangerous. I have driven several "street" cars that were over 600 HP safely. Of course, I wouldn't trust anyone else behind the wheel with me riding along.
It's not the "direct drive" part that is the problem, it's the gauge. The gauge was not designed to be accurate at high speeds. If you have ever seen a speedometer needle bounce at high speeds you will know what I am talking about. Even my brand new Autometer speedometer bounces when I get above 130.
The percentage increases. For example, you might be off .5% at 100 MPH and 1.0% at 120 and increase from there. Factory speedometers were only designed to be accurate up to a certain MPH (usually around 80).
BTW, I am well aware of the things that will cause further speedometer inaccuracy.
I am building a early 260z drift car.
I have decided to go with a RB25DET just due to the fact that it is an easily modified engine, it's cheaper and easier to install than the RB26. Plus the RB25 looks so much better than a SR20. As far as suspension and chassis upgrades, I haven't spared any expense and I still have much to do.
If anyone needs any tips let me know. I have been building Z-cars for about 13 years and building street legal drift cars for 5.
BTW...I am no stranger to drifting. I've even had my E38 740i sideways a few times.