Zzeal

Did you open all the boxes?, you should have gotten lugs too. My Rota's came with the black lugs pictured. I don't like how they look and they require a special socket. I'm swapping 'em out for longer studs and Gorilla nuts. It's a 60 degree seat. Steve

I visited a good friend last week while he was doing ball joints on a stock 2500 4X4 Silverado pickup with an LS2. He told me to check out the exhaust system. It had 2-7/8" pipes coming off the headers into converters. Then 3" coming out of the converters which then merged into a 3-1/2" "Y", just before a very large muffler. A short tailpipe continued at 3-1/2". Seems GM saw a need for their baby to breathe. I'm rethinking my plan for a single 3"system for my LS2 S30. Steve

This is from a late '70's Datsun Competition Parts catalog: Stabilizer Bars "The 19mm rear stabilizer bar should be adapted to Z cars that retain the stock front stabilizer bar (17mm) and did not come standard with any stabilizer bar on the rear. The 22mm front stabilizer bar and the 23mm rear bar should be used together for all around high performance driving and when installing the factory race or rally suspension kits. The 25mm rear stabilizer bar is designed to be used in applications where a lot of oversteer is desired, such as slaloms or autocross." Now, a typical set-up is a 1" front and 3/4" rear. How'd we get so far away from Datsun Competition's recommendation? Steve

No slight intended at all Cobra Tim, I just couldn't get a good shot of you guys under the tent. Congrats on a fine showing!. You've got that Z well sorted, 20 some laps at Sebring is impressive. And I would like to have so much fun! Steve

Anyone have a fresh air elbow in really nice condition?. I only need the right side but if you have both and don't want to split them up, I'll buy both. They're for a '73. Thanks! Steve

I came across these Datsun's while roaming the paddock at Sebring this March. They ran in an SVRA enduro in conjunction with the Sebring 12 hr. If it says Leitzinger on it, it's gonna be fast... and it sounded great! The GT Z car didn't run as strong as it looked. Steve

You all see the nifty aero article in the newest Grassroots Motorsports? (May'10 issue) It's authored by an aerodynamic engineer with T.R.D. and he recommends some simple, low buck testing techniques, like applying a flow visualization fluid (powered paint, 3 in 1 oil, rubbing alcohol) to see how it streaks at speed. Love to sit down and have a beer with this guy! Steve

Seal seams!, there's lots of 'em. I used 3M's white, caulk gun dispensed sealer and Eastwood's goopier, brush on stuff. It's one of those "why not do it while it's on the twirler" deals. I wouldn't bother running bars from the strut towers to the firewall though, it's too flexi. Steve

Which one?, I'm not seeing it. Steve

Very cool idea, what a great father/son project! Your dad's on board with this right? Steve

With my stock LS2 crank pulley just about kissin' my 73's steering rack, I had to find a smaller od damper. I'm normally a bit leery with some of Summit's "Trick Flow" stuff, but this underdrive (25%) damper is a very nice piece, from Australia I learned, and for $180!! You can have about two of them for the price of one ATI damper. It's Summit's TFS-18004, fits Chevy LS1's and LS2 GTO's. Along with it ya gotta buy a new damper bolt, $5 (16mm X 2.0) and if you need to replace the crank seal be aware that GM considers them precious, they retail at $27 Steve

If you're going to do it yourself don't even think about blasting a body panel with anything but soda, and don't even use an aggressive media on the rest of it. It's way too easy to screw up! Steve

Yeah!, I'm liking it too! As unusual as it is I'm thinking it could be a custom, one off color. Love to have the recipe.

Look up Castle Endura C1630

PM's sent to Sprayed280ZX and Jeeper42.

Agreed, and I'm finding my idea of lubing everything through one hole isn't feasible and I have no idea how long the weldable primer will resist corrosion if I do nothing, so I'm gonna keep it lubed up in there by drilling several holes and squirting in light oil or some "Endura". A mechanic friend highly recommends it. It "sprays as a liquid, penetrates tight areas and sets up as a long lasting grease", the ad reads. I designed the caps to fit snugly top and bottom but with some wiggle room on the vertical side, leaving room to get the lube going. I thought I paid $300 for the pair but it was $250. The shop that did the work kept my measurements and can make more. Beefing 'em up to 12 Ga. would cost another $10. Shoot me a PM if you're interested in going this route, I could provide the measurements or put you in touch with the shop. Here are the nylon plugs I'm using, cute little buggers, for 3/16" holes.

Mark says it's ok to share his technique on fully welding those bars high up on the main hoop, tight to the top. First, position the main hoop, notice its legs are up on top of the rockers, not on the floor. Miter and position one of the upper bars to the hoop and tack it securely. Coax the hoop leg down off the ledge, giving yourself a couple of inches to do a complete weld. Put the leg back up, voila. There are other situations which demand more creative solutions, but it never involves cutting a top. Steve

I agree with flatblack280, check out the Bimmers. I don't know if I'm being seduced by BMW but their metallic grays are outstanding, punchy and bright. see if Space Gray Metallic would do it for 'ya. Steve

Thanks NCchris, that explains it!. I sold a Miata to start this project. I was exposed to Hard Dog propaganda.

It will be a rare occasion for this car to get wet, but I wouldn't worry about it, even as a daily driver. Everything will be buttoned up with 3M's seam sealer. I'm going to drill a small hole at the top edge of the rail and fill the cavity with some WD40, oil or whatever, then plug the hole. Steve

The first three shops said they would've been right around $100 for bending the two pieces, including the metal, and I thought wow!, that's cheap! But then the uber shop said "to get the whole enchilada it will cost three happy meals, $300." ........................................... dsommer- Nooooo thanks, I don't want to get into the front rail biz.

Nice work on the bracket!, I should do the same thing. Great work with the big eyed cutie. She should be in the "Post your photography" section! Steve

Yeah, Bad Dog! I don't know where the hard dog came from, that's funny. Another one of my senior moments I guess...

I've got a solid '73, barely noticed by the rust demons, but it's frame rails have led a rough life, they're all dinged up. So, to pretty 'em up and add some anti-flex, I've got Hard Dog rail caps going on. To continue the theme, I had some engine compartment frame rail caps made up too, out of 14ga. steel. It took me four metal fabrication shops until I found one that could pull it off, duplicating my cardboard templates and fully covering all three sides of the rail. The other shops could only do two full sides and cover only about half of the third side. Everything's been coated with 3M's weldable primer, and after it's all on I'll pour in some...POR-15?? where I can and give it a twirl, since this project's on a rotisserie. Could be a real mess to clean up though! Steve