Zzeal

I'm using a "Ron Francis Wiring" toggle turn signal switch. Worked fine in an initial test, but I'll have to remember to switch it off after making a turn. It's a six terminal affair and they've got a wiring schematic for it on their site. Steve

I went the plastic tank route too, after reading CruxGNZ's write up some time ago. The LS1 tanks ( this one's an '02 Camaro) fit the space nicely, aren't expensive, and are fairly simple to mount after fabbin' up some hangers. I believe CruxGNZ's looked about the same, the tank's shape dictates what the mounts are gonna look like. I just made a cardboard pattern following the tank's angles and transferred it onto some plywood and made a jig out of it, to produce two identical pieces. The time consuming part is in mitering the metal. For me, it was important to retain the tank's emissions function, to keep the stinky smells in the tank rather than in my garage. I positioned the tank more to the passenger side to allow room for a single, drivers side, muffler. The Camaro fill tube diameter fit perfectly, but to get a good, stock filler angle, it does angle into the trunk area. Here's some pix: Steve The little round plate on the left is an aftermarket sending unit I added. The straps came with the tank.

The DBW connector is part of the engine wiring harness, I did an '05 GTO swap myself. It's not a separate harness and connector. I don't see how it could be missing, unless it was cut off, and that would be too stupid.

Yep, tap and plug 'em. Looks good and works perfectly. Steve

I'm sure McMaster-Carr has them, but the smaller bolts are packaged several to a bag.

Well, I've been sucked into the long tube headers vortex. I tried being rational, sittin' here with my perfectly good set of Sanderson shorties, but, resistance is futile!, the price is too good! Thank you David!!! Steve

Hi Kinser, Just sent you a PM. Steve

B30-629 A1 is the gland nut you need.

I remember a "5th Gear" episode ('04-'07) on Speed Channel when they assembled a strong group of sports cars to find the one that stood out from the others on a road course. One that was fun, fast, balanced and predictable, with outstanding brakes and steering... Porsche Boxster. Also, the editors of the Brit mag "Evo" last year picked the Boxster as their favourite all around ride. And, if you got one, you wouldn't HAVE to wear a gold chain and get all uppity with us. Steve

Just use string to determine the length you need. Don't forget to position the tensioner to it's working position when measuring. Your local store (should) know the lengths of their serpentine belts. It worked for me, first try, with NAPA. Steve

In the summer, I'd dump the antifreeze and just run a "water wetter". http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0703_turp_cooling_system_additives/test_results.html

Here's a shot of the clutch master that came in an '06 GTO LS2. It's 3/4" in diameter and the plunger has a movement of about 15/16" without forcing it. Its cute little reservoir is only 1-1/4" in diameter. Not a whole lot of fluid needed here. I did the math of going to a 15/16" cylinder, it only provides 64% of the force provided by the stock 3/4". The 7/8" cylinder you first used provided 73%. I talked with Tilton tech some time ago when I was sourcing a cylinder and they recommended a 3/4" unit for my stock LS6 clutch rather than a 7/8". Still, lots of people are making 7/8's work, you've gotta have something else going on. I feel for 'ya.

"Any risk with that 15/16 blowing the slave out?" Going to a 15/16" master will give you LESS pressure than with the 7/8" one. The smaller the master cylinder diameter, the higher the pressure. I'm using a 3/4" master, the same diameter as a stock '06 LS2 GTO. Steve

Before I order one I thought I'd ask if anyone has a '70-'72 rear fiberglass bumper laying around that they're dying to get rid of. Thanks, Steve

Anyone still need a MM brace?, I've got one, $65 shipped. Paypal Steve

Here's (L. to R.) about 150, 500 and 200 HP. Gotta' love the flathead!

Eastwood now has an Internal Frame Coating aerosol, comes with an 18" nozzle. Sounds promising. Steve

I borrowed a pilot bearing puller from a garage where a friend works. Otherwise, I was going to pack as much grease as possible into and behind the bearing, start a short hardwood dowel as a snug fitting input shaft, give the dowel a good whack with a small sledge to force the bearing out. I've heard the technique works and for fun I wanted to try it. The trick would be in coming up with the right sized dowel. Steve

I just love this Roll Center stuff. I like the whooshing sound it makes as it flies over my head. Steve

Try LS1howto.com. Under the F-body cam installation section you'll find a decent cam selection guide. Good luck with your project, mate! Steve

Antifreeze REDUCES cooling efficiency. Antifreeze has a high viscosity so its flow rate is less than water and it doesn't transfer heat as well either. A 50/50 mix is just a compromise between cooling efficiency and frozen engine blocks. If you dilute the mix from 50/50 to 25/75 or even 20/80 you'll probably get a 10-15 degree drop and corrosion protection too. Steve

Thanks guys, I'm headed off to my dealer. It never occurred to me that it could be a technical issue. Steve

Just got back from seven hours on the road in my '07 Honda Fit Sport. Around town the steering is fine with a nice quick ratio, but on the highway I feel like I'm piloting an appliance. There isn't any "on center" feel, it's just numb and I'm forever making little corrections all the way down the stupid road. This is a budget ride, so I wonder if its electric steering is cheap too. Do other, more expensive cars have better electric steering? I certainly hope so, because we could be going in the wrong direction with this gas saving technology. Steve

Just picked up a set of the MSD wires today at Summit, part #32813. The spark plug boots come straight but will bend almost to a 90 and stay put.

Have you fitted the driver's seat? The horizontal, straight bar spanning the main hoop might keep you from getting the seat far enough back. I had to curve the bar for adequate clearance, like this: