ZR8ED

Nope. I may cry a bit harder each time as gas continues to go up, and I have to commute to work..in the auto industry..yeeesh. I understand that it will drive up the cost of other aspects of life (food, home heating, vacations etc) but for my Z? who cares?! I put in 4-5 tanks of fuel per season maybe a few more if I have a good season (not in the shop a lot). Its not a daily driver for me, so gas mileage is not a huge concern to me. But I do drive a Honda to work everyday to minimize my fuel costs for now. Just paid 1.206/litre today. Its funny. I worry about gas usage when i'm in my Honda, but not when I'm in my Z! Just my little morning musing. Don't flame me please. hehe

Ok Update on the master cylinder upgrade. I got the old MC off finally! A small pair of vicegrips were needed in the end to loosen those fittings. sheesh. What a job just to get the MC off of the booster. It had some silicone on the joint, and I had to work like a dog to get it to pop off. I cleaned up all of the parts I was going to reuse, and the actuating rod fits the new m/c with no adjustment required. Thanks for the tip to measure it first! I got the MC off, and yes my 280 MC tanks fit just fine on the 280zx MC. I got it all back together, and reinstalled the m/c It was not much fun messing with the hard lines getting it all lined up again. The 280zx MC bleeder nipples are on the opposite side as my 280z MC. The other brake lines did not need to be re routed, though I did need to reroute my brake bias controler slightly due to the mc bleeder nipples being on the other side, but that is my problem. To sum it up, I have it all back together, and I have not seen any leaks. I do not have the system fully bleed yet, but I have a friend coming tonight to help me make sure its bleed enough. Then its road test time, then to try and figure out the brake bias setting that I need. I am not looking forward to setting that up. I'll have to wait for a rainy day and an empty parking lot I suppose..at least till my clubs next track day! I'll post the final results to finish this thread off. Thanks, Scott.

Well Delays. I could not remove one single fitting. I could not remove the two on the MC, and I also tried to remove their respective other ends! Wrenches kept wanting to slip, and Vice grips were too large to get into that tight area. Sooo I stopped by a friend who suggested I use proper tools..ie line wrenches. He gave me a few, and a few crows foot wrenches as well. This should do it. I'll have that mc off today!

I have a TurboXS BOV type H or R (I can't remember) It vents to atmosphere as well. Yes Mine is partly open at idle, but only a hair. It took some adjusting to get it there. I have had it adjusted open and closed, and settled for the driveability that I wanted, and have settled with it a bit open. I'll go for a recirculating BOV someday.

Congratulations! I myself have just passed the halfway hump this year Yeehaw!..its all down hill from here on......uhm..er.. Scott.

Got the unit last night. No tanks. But... I think the tanks off of mine will fit. I'll find out when I pull the old MC. I may get lucky here. I'll post the results. I ordered a MC for a 1982 280zx, and before I put my money down, I checked for a 1980 280zx MC, and it came up with the same part number. The reason for my initial concern is that in my 280zx FSM it shows it having 1 large tank, and my 1978 has two tanks. I'll find out for sure!

Compomotive USA made wheels like that, may want to check their site.

It looks like its another "while I'm at it" situation for me. I have finished the rear disc swap, and have found that a MC seal is leaking for the front brakes. Time to change the master cyl! While talking with a z buddy of mine he says "why don't you put in a 280zx MC " I'm like. "Ok good idea". Shucks darn it I did it again. Another project. It sounds like a fairly easy swap If you have all the parts. I ordered a rebuild MC for a zx, and I'm hoping that it will come with enough bits for the install. I hope it comes with the tanks! I'll find out this afternoon if this is going to be easy, or If I'm going to have to find a junker MC to get the missing pieces. Oh well! Maybe I'll clean up the brake booster while I have more room to work in that area! heeheehee Scott.

Thanks! I was not able to turn the piston with a screwdriver, so I made a tool that fit into two of the grooves. Worked perfect! Got a groove lined up with the pin on the back of the pad no problem. I am searching the forums today looking for bleeding help. The back brakes bled ok, but I could not get them done out front. When pumping the brakes with the front (larger) resevoir cap off, I was seeing bubbling! and next to nothing coming out of the caliper bleeders. I'm trying to figure if my MC is faulty, or is it that I bled them wrong and now have air trapped in the MC. I sealed and closed everything back up (bleeders and MC caps) and I hear bubbling in the large resevoir when I pump the brakes. I had working brakes before, they were not too great, but they worked. Oh well back to searching. Found some good reading so far. Thanks, Scott

Some oldies but goodies. A NHL hockey puck makes a good replacment for your steering coupler. Less flex than stock, cheap too! I've had mine installed for 10yrs +. Early chevette heavy duty springs (not the progressive rate) I'll get a part number and edit this post. 80's 4 door with air. They fit perfectly in a Z. Cut for desired ride height. I recall 1.5 coils to get a nice reasonable drop from stock height. Nice balance on the track. I have driven several z's with these springs, and they were beautiful to drive on the track! Early 90's honda coilover kits fit 240's. You need different springs, but collars just slip right on. They DO NOT fit 280's as they have larger dia strut tubes. And for restoring a 240/260/280, a huge percentage of parts are interchangeable between years.. Very handy at picknpulls, so don't be afraid to look at other years of Z's for parts.

I picked up a 30" hardline and bent it up with a loop, and I think I have a pretty good fit now, and it looks good too! Almost done now. Thanks! Scott

Yea I know another question about my disc swap. This time I noticed that on the face of the piston (part that actually touches the back of the pad) has 4 u shaped notches on four sides I also see that the back side of the disc pad that there is a small pin maybe 3-4mm wide and 2-3mm high, and it looks like it will line up with one of the notches on the piston. Is it supposed to?/need to? Do I have to rotate the piston in its bore to line up with the pin on the back of the pad? or will it line up once you apply the brakes a few times? I am almost ready for the maiden voyage, and I want to be sure I've got this right. Ah the questions never seem to end. Thanks, Scott.

Thanks for responses and pics! That helped me out. I will pick up a new hardline on my way home tonight, and try and finish the swap up. I have a neat little pipe bender that I can fit in my vise or use by hand, and it works quite easily. I'd rather do it right the first time...or "while I'm at it" oh no those dreaded 4 little words coming back to haunt me again! I will post my little endeavor with some extra how to's to help out others. Thanks! Scott.

I am about 85% complete with my MM rear disc swap with the 240sx calipers and 11.4" rotors. The instructions said to get a 20" hardline, which I did, I'm not sure whats up, but I think it is a bit too short? are 240/280 brake lines positioned differently? If I leave it straight and not attached to the body, it reaches ok. I want to route the hardline with some proper bends, and a couple of body mounts, and I think I will need maybe 30". Is the junction box located differently in a 240? On my 280, the block is very close to the passengerside. The longer ss flex line fits on the passenger side ok..it could be shorter and still be ok. Sorry for the ramble, I've been under the car for last 3 hours finishing up the drivers side, and I would have been almost finished except I now removed the new hardline again. Anyone have experience with this swap and used the hardline and the ss flex lines?

Ok I searched and found an excellent thread called the brake fluid faq. It was great reading, but i learned enough now that I'm unsure what type of fluid to put into my z. The faq was very general towards street and race applications, and was also filled with technical numbers/values that pertain to the chemsitry etc of the fluids. What I really need to know, and what would make a great sticky is some specific recommendations of types/brands that work well with our cars. Obviously there should be some variations broken out by vehicle modifications and their intended use. Suggestions for: 1 Stock brakes for street use only 2 Stock brakes with street/autoX/drag use. 3 Stock brakes for race only. Mild mods: 4 Rear discs, larger front discs for street use only 5 Rear discs, larger front discs for street/AutoX/drag use. 6 Rear discs, larger front discs for race only. Major mods: 7 Large rear discs, larger front discs for street use only 8 Large rear discs, larger front discs for street/AutoX/drag use. 9 Large rear discs, larger front discs for race only. I would think I am with the majority of the group with a #5 setup/use. Anyone care to comment?add something? Lets make this a sticky if we can get enough information. Sorry that I have nothing to recommend except the stock stuff has worked well for me, even with some track use.

I hate to reply when I don't have a complete answer, but I had the samething with mine. If you look at how the rods work, you will likely see one that has an elongated hole. It is not supposed to be elongated. A little braze to make it a round hole voila. I am making it sound kinda easy, because I don't have the full details. I had it repaired at a z shop, and this is what he told me. Scott.

240ZDave. I have done this to my airdam. Mine is not urethane, but I build a large front belly pan, that attaches to the bottom edge of my airdam, and goes all the way back to the crossmember. There are curved cut outs on the sides to allow the wheels to be turned, yet maximizing the size of the belly pan. I've got pics posted in several areas on this site, just search my name. In my sig you also can see I have another plastic strip at the bottom of the airdam that I can change whenever its gets scraped up. Scott.

Have you thought about those small solar panel battery chargers? I have a small 15w one that keeps my motor home batteries fully charged when the vehicle is parked. I think I paid about $15.00 for it. They have much larger ones readily available. Maybe put one in the rear hatch area to charge while daylight..even while driving. It may give you a bit of extra range, and might help out while its parked all day at work/school/shopping. Just an idea. Love the project. Scott.

I know what you mean. I have gone through this several times over the years. I was within an inch of buying a used viper because I had broken the car again. Though to be honest, I just couldn't part with the Z, and a viper and a Z would break me, so I just dumped my viper down payment into my Z so I could hang with a viper. My Z looks better anyways. These cars are money pits, you need to know that ahead of time and just learn to live within it. I'd love to have a 500hp engine, but I can't afford a new car that comes with 500hp, so what makes me think I can afford to increase the performance of my Z to match a 500hp car now. Sure it would cost less, but I need to be realistic, and have a good performing sports car, AND not be forced to live on kraft dinner, and PB&J sandwiches. Create a budget. A lifetime budget for your Z. What I mean is a yearly budget, because once the car is built, you still have to maintain it, and if you have drastically increased the performance, wear and tear on your performance parts will cost more, faster wear and tear etc... Scott.

I'm calling you boys out. Update your status. 2 years to go!

That looks great! I'm falling behind now. I'm having trouble sourcing the hard line. Did you use it? I've been around to a few local suppliers, but most look at me kinda funny when I say japanese hard line? I don't have the calipers yet either..no one local has a left caliper?!!! But its ok. The weather is getting nice, so I'll just cruise until I get them. Sorry to hijack the thread a bit. Your pics help visualise it a bit. If you did the new hard line, could you describe a bit on how you did it? I can't picture where this line is/will go. I haven't had the wheels off in a while now. Cheers! Scott.

Welcome to the fat bottom boys club! It will take some serious flares to cover those badboys up. BTW. A shot of the rear of the car will be your favorite angle. Got Traction? Goodluck

On OEM springs, cut from the top. I ran that way on street and track for years and years...uhmmm I still am actually. Chevette springs in back, and stock cut rears in front. (BTW don't use my example, as I no longer have a heavy L6 under the hood, so I'm on my own for spring combo's) Chevette springs all around work well on a milder s30. ( i don't have the details handy on the chevette springs, because I did them so many years ago I can't remember) Search for it in the forums.

I got the brembo 11.4" rotors with the adapters for the 240sx caliper swap. I picked this kit for the ease of the swap, and the extra braking capabilities. I think the extreme package is more than I require for a mainly street driven car. Even with my current setup (ss flex lines, stock rears, and the SW12 calipers on vented front rotors, and a bais controller.) I was plenty happy with the performance on the race track. We'll see how it goes. Here is a link to the kit. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2&PHPSESSID=d4bad42f739a4f0a003b3338424020dd

It took about 2 weeks from the first email. The braided brake lines and pads arrived late last week, and the rest of the kit arrived a few minutes ago. I'll have my new calipers in a week or more, and when I get started, I'll document the swap. Currently I have stock rear brakes with braided lines. I don't usually mess with brakes due to the fear of dying because of brake failure, so this will be quite interesting to do this swap from a relatively "noobie" perspective. Not to worry too much. I do have 19yrs experience working with my Z. I'll post once I get my parts together. I do fear I may get in the "while I'm at it" bug like I do EVERY SINGLE TIME I work on my Z. Thanks Ross. Scott.