ZR8ED

Yep. I do. The wife likes my hands soft!

Well you may think I am crazy, but if I came into millions, I would absolutely drop another 50-100K into my Z, and drive a Blue with white stripes 1996 Viper GTS as my backup car until the z was finished. The Pantera would make a nice weekend show car though. Scott.

I put up a couple of quick clips on my Youtube account. Old clips, from this old VHS footage that I have recovered. A friends z that has to get hard on the brakes at Shannonville Back in my weber days testing a set of 45mm DCOE's

I started getting some warnings about some of the music content in some of my vids on youtube. I too pulled the vids before they deleted them. Now I can't comment on your repeated contacts about vids already deleted, but I picked up a music soundtrack generator (Sony Cinescore) No more copyright infrigements...Though I did get a comment that one of my mellow soundtracks (z's in the rain) sounded a bit too much like some adult movie soundtrack. Whoops. Anyways, I think these crackdowns are only going to increase. Re post the vids with new or no music...at least the vids with Z's in them.

Phil who!?!

The yellow Z is going so much faster that it blew the paint off the other car.

Nawwh. Haven't forgotten ya. Good luck with the road trip. I remember when a lot in my life went "south" and I hit the road for a couple of months to make a clean "er" break. Hang on to the Z if ya can, but don't let storage fees get ya into worse finances. Z's are still available. You know how to get a hold of me. Good luck. Scott.

Memory lapse.. its a 478 hemi... ehh. what's a few less cubes in a Healy? http://www.modifiedhealeys.org/Photos/126Marian/Marian.htm

Congrats on selling the home quickly..even more so in this market. Good luck on the next stages! Scott

Don't put too much into the "flaking off" problem. You are painting some form of styrene plastic spoon, which normal paints will not stick to very well. Scott.

Use NEW bolts. I have had my toyota S12w/300zx rotors for probably 10 years. It has been great on the few track days per year I get to, and works well for the street. Wildwoods for a mainly street car = $$$bling and bragging rights. Scott.

Why not paint a sacraficial part or piece of steel and leave it outside, or, store it under the hood of your daily driver and see what happens over time? Better yet, do two panels/parts one outside to nature, and the other under the hood of a daily driver. That would be a good real world test of the product for our possible uses. Just a thought. Scott

Have you taken the car out for a nice cruise? We are getting into that kind of weather now. I say get it out for a good 1/2 hour highway cruise..smooth driving..no hotfooting. Let everything fully warm up and give the exhaust a chance to get any oily residue out. Try to stay out of boost for a bit. After that, you may be able to get an idea of burning oil at startup/ idle/ boosting etc.. Just trying to eliminate some of the variables. Scott.

There are some crazy Brits over there! I have a pic of an Austin Healy bug eye sprite with a 570 hemi and 275 17's on the back... under stock bodylines..no flares. Yikes! Scott.

Ok Polyester primer is different. Very high solids, sprays on very thick, more difficult to sand than an epoxy primer. This should be used on "rough' body work" ie if the panels are good and pretty straight, then this would be over kill. It is a high hiding primer. "I was given PCL polyprimer and told to shoot it over the PCL self etching primer and then paint" Just use what you have and don't worry too much about it. It sounds like you have what I call a "system", and you should be just fine. Not sure about the tip size, there are lots of types of spray guns, tips, operation pressures, flowrates etc. Too many variables to comment. If you are really worried, try painting a small piece of scrap sheetmetal as a test. If it "chunks" up or nothing comes out, you will know. Sorry but that is the best I can offer from behind my keyboard. A couple of interesting reads. http://www.autobody101.com/ http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/index_2.php http://www.neilslade.com/Papers/Painting.html

I'm going to take the usable footage, and put it onto a dvd, or at least be able to transfer it using a memory stick. I will make sure that anyone in the vids can get a copy first. I have footage from all of the lapping days that I attended. I have some ideas for this years events too! My Z may not make it on the track, but I will bring the camera/remote cameras.

RedFive. I think much of this stems from old corroded wiring. If the ole screwdriver trick starts the car, then I go straight for the wires/connectors. Replace the battery cable/cables, clean all connections etc. Clean the attachement points as well... and the securing nuts/bolts. Clean Clean Clean... Scott.

Dry the AFM. It can get wet as well. Very typical. It has a square black cover about 3x3 inches. Remove and dry off the inards. Oh.. And don't wash the engine that way again. PITA sorting out water/electrical issues. Scott.

My paint experience is OEM, with some refinish, so take my knowledge with some salt ok? "poly" primer and "urethane" primer is the same thing. Some products are called "poly" primer, "urethane" primer, and "polyurethane" primer. Same tech different names depending on product branding. I would really hope that the paint counter guy sold you a "system". That is a primer that matches/compatible with the topcoat, that matches/compatible with the clearocoat. I am obviously biased, but as long as you are using a total "system", you will be just fine. Yes some paint systems are better than others, but that is usually up for debate, and is often based on experience with one brand or another. As for reducing the primer, what does it say on the can/tech sheet? if it says it is prepared ready to spray, then just spray it. Tweaking "ready to spray" products in my opinion is done to compensate for specific non ideal spray conditions, and/or compensate for poor operator technique. Good luck!

Well when I first got married, my first apartment had outdoor parking only. I daily drove it in the summer, and parked it in storage for the winters. Time..1 year I got my first house a year later with a huge driveway, and no garage. I still stored the car during winter. Time 5 years Long story short Moved to another house no garage. Car still winter stored, and I bought a good car cover as the car was no longer a daily driver. Time 2 years. (car as seen in my sig) Moved to house with 1 car garage. I was in heaven. Time 2 years Moved to house with big 2 car dream garage. Died and gone to heaven again. Time..hopefully forever. To sum it up. If the car is not a DD, store it on the cheap, and get yourself established. Then have fun with the car. Failed relationships strain Z budgets. (don't ask) Scott.

Ok after some mild cursing at spending several hours creating a video only to find it too big to go on my youtube account. I pulled additional footage (from my late 90's vhs tapes of Ontario Z Cars track sessions), I found some raw footage of our first club sponsored track day, held at the driver development track at Mosport. It was pouring rain, and many members from the club almost wanted to back out..but we had already paid, so we made the best of it. It did dry up a bit later on in the day, but most of the day was driving in a constant downpour. Here is how we did in the rain.. If this linky no worky, just look up ZR8ED on youtube.

Ok I got some motivation. Short 6min vid of an Ontario Z Car track day back in the late 90's. It was absolutely pouring rain that day, we were all a bit nervous pushing the cars in the wet, but we had already paid, so we gave it our best shot. It turned out to be a great event, and we all learned about how well these cars handle in the wet... Pretty good it turns out. You decide.

Well if you are on a budget, new pistons = $ and pulling apart the block. Is the bottom end and/or was the engine in decent running condition when you purchased the car? Back in the day, I used the n42 head with a hotter cam, and I found it much more economical to mill the head, buy new lash pads, and simply bolt the head back on using a felpro turbo headgasket. Even with my stock dish pistons, the performance increase was noticeable. In my case, the stock bottom end was in excellent condition, and did not warrant pulling it apart. I drove it like that for many years before taking the plunge and building a monster N/A. Good luck with your project!

Dang. I dug up some old videos from some of my z clubs first track days, and I put together a string of clips using Adobe premier 3.0, and using Sony's Cinescore sound track creation software that I just picked up. I had a lot of fun making a cool video using some pretty old vhs taped footage. I finished up late last night, and tried to post to youtube....Problem.. the file is too big...too many kilo bytes, and too long in time. I can shrink the quality (thus file size), but not the time. Anyone interested in posting this? It is 12 min long. I guess I could redo the thing, it only took me 4-5 hours to put everything together. Anyways, I will make some shorter vids once I get some motivation back, and post them. I mention the sound track creation software, because I got some of my vids pulled for music rights violations on youtube. This software is copyright free, and can create thousands of variations of music themed soundtracks that you can modify and edit. Just bumed a bit. I'll get over it.

Sorry but I do not have any updates. I still do not have brackets for the calipers, so I still do not have the ebrake setup. I will be bringing the car out of hibernation soon, and will restart this project. Scott