TeemuM

Engine is now in it´s place. M3 exhaust manifold needed small modifications so it would clear frame rail. I needed to made hood latch bracket removable so I could mount engine wiring harness under it. And it also needed some modifications to clear fuel rail. Also received Megasquirt 3, so next step is finish wiring, make new exhaust and then try to start this thing.

Yes 15 5/8" chromoly axles from Mooreparts. Those were about 1" too long but they could be shortened. And also needed to lathe new circlips grooves. Can´t take credit for those new stub axle flanges, local machine shop did those.

Some update. New drive axles with cv-joints. Needed to made new flange for stub axle and new bolt pattern for diff flange. Also new drive shaft. I needed to change that 3 bolt diff flange to round one found from 370Z. Bigger fuel lines and reservoir where is pump inside.

I bought 370Z flange and it was direct fit so problem solved.

Measured 89cm in mine car. Original seat and with ceiling trim. So its almost same as yours.

I fabricated mount for shortnose differential. Material is 5mm steel. I mounted diff little bit higher than originally, so there is more room for exhaust. And because car is lowered so much this helps to get drive axles to better angle. Rear beam needed small modification to get enough room for diff.

I am using short nose R200 differential originally from Infiniti G37 automatic. Diff has 3 bolt flange that is meant for rubber joint. However I am using U-joint, so I need round flange or flange that has enough material so it can be modified. Every other R200 has round flange, so does anyone know if those short nose R200 flanges are interchangeable?

Engine is now fitted. Not the prettiest mounts but I guess they do the trick. Original gearbox mount was almost direct fit. And gearlever is in right place. Also modified rear bracket so there is more room for exhaust. I used two mounts that I cutted half and welded together. As differential I am going to use Infiniti G37 R200. Ratio is 3.337 and it is LSD. Need to do mounts for that. Also get larger clutch and custom flywheel to fit that cluch.

I am changing that longnose R200 that I currently have to shortnose R200 with LSD. Differential is from G37 and is very low milage. At the same time I am changing half shafts to CV-axles. Does anyone know where to find short 28 spline cv-axles? I was thinking to use these joints. http://www.mooreparts.com/8126-AC501193/ These are shortest axles that I have find, but I think those are little bit too long. http://www.mooreparts.com/3259-AC525202/

Thanks guys for compliments! Yes we have M52. But at the time I bought this one couldn't find any for reasonable price. It would been nicer because aluminium block, so could save a little bit of weight. That aluminium block is 30kg lighter. I think that M50 is about same weight than L28. I corner weighted my car with L28 and it is in quite good balance. Front left Front right 285kg 272kg Rear left Rear right 247kg 275kg

I thought I share my Datsun project here. I bought it about year ago from US. I looked car that was not too rusted, was running and cost under 5K. Finally found this -71 240Z from Hollywood. It was little over my budget, but seller was kind enough to drive it so shipping company, so I saved few hundred in there. And there was also lots of new parts included. Car had L28, 5 speed, R200 and Z31 ECU. After waiting two (long) months car finally arrived to Finland and it turned out to be in much better condition that I could never expect. There was almost no rust and car really was in driving condition. I drove few days with it and then teared it apart. And I also sanded it to bare metal. Only welding that I did was fill those side light holes because they are not needed in my country. After that it was time to paint. Painting was done in my own garage where I did small "paint booth". After painting it needed lots and lots of wet sanding and polishing... Previous owner had fitter Eibach springs and Tocico shocks but I wanted it to be lower so coilovers were needed. I bought BC Racing coilovers that were meant for S13 and fitted them to S30. I cutted original shock tubes and welded threaded collars in place of them. S13 camper adjust strut tops were too big for S30 strut towers, so I made smaller strut tops. There is not much camper adjust, but at least some. Previous owner had fit disk brakes to rear and 13/16" MC. I decided to upgrade front brakes with 300mm vented rotors and Outlaw calipers. I also did 5-lug swap using Z31 parts in front and rear hub was redrilled. I have always liked old BBS wheels and bought BBS RM. Wheel were originally 7.5" x 15" and rear wheels were widened 1.25". Interior was in quite bad shape. Seat cover was broked and dash was cracked. I repaired dash with fiber glass and painted it black. Seat was repaired with new covers. New gauges came from Speedhut. I have now driven about 5000km with my Datsun in this summer. Have been in few track days and few car meets. And it has worked perfectly. As for new engine I wanted some modern 6 cyl engine, and though RB25. However those are quite expensive and rare in our country, so I used something totally different...BMW M50B25 with 5 speed ZF310 gearbox. I used 2.8 crankshaft and pistons so engine is now 2.8 instead original 2.5. Also block height is shaved 2mm to get squish height to about 1mm. That shaving also get me 12:1 compression so I am going to use E85. As engine management I am using Megasquirt MS3. And I also have M3 throttle bodies and headers and some hotter cams. Engine is now totally rebuild with new piston rings, bearings, cam chain, etc. During this winter I need to get this engine fitted to Datsun engine compartment and get everything working.

I have 205/55/15 7.5" in front and 225/50/15 8.75" in rear.

Heres one nice pic of my Z taken at our local sports car meet.

Here´s my stance. Suspension is BC Racing BR coilovers turned as low as they get in front.

Here´s one pic from behind.

Thanks. Mirrors are BRE. http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=020A04&Category_Code=bre_datsun_accessories

Did you find what cause this issue? I have same problem in my car.

I don´t think that there is no extra room in that mk1 Golf, because transmission is right beside frame rail. And also that is FWD and AWD transmission is larger (it is wider at least). Also you can´t move that engine back to firewall because location of front drive shafts. Even if you mount engine longitudinal it needs to be mounted more forward because of those front driveshaft position. http://advancedautomotion.com/shop/images/01E%20AWD.jpg

If you want mount engine longitudinal and use Audi AWD, then take drivetrain from Audi A4/A6. It uses torsen center differential, so no electrics there which makes it lots easier.

Rear hubs are re-drilled.

Car is still under constructions but at least wheels are done. BBS RM 7.5 x 15 ET30 (Z31 hubs), 205/55 Toyo T1R BBS RM 8.75 x 15 ET-2, 225/50 Toyo T1R

I used nylon brush that was attached to power drill to remove all paint from my body panels. It doesn´t do any harm to panels and is quite fast to use, althought quite messy.

Have you cranked engine by hand? Did you assemble engine by yourself, so was crankshaft rotating freely when it was torqued?

Sorry if this is a repost, but tried search and didn´t find anything. I am building manifold for itb. Does someone have .dxf for L6 intake manifold flange? My head is P79.