Chris83zxt

You need to zip the msq files to attach.

When I was getting down to the short and curlies of planning out my build I ran into a big potential snag -- the Bosch 403 (Ford CFI) injectors were not to be found at any e-tailer. They're getting a bit hard to find these days I guess. I had been planning to use them for some time and had the rest of my stuff ordered. I found these http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-Ohm-Custom-Fuel-Injector-52-lbs-Flow-Similar-to-Bosch-0-280-150-403-NEW-/191007778301?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c78f365fd&vxp=mtr on fleabay and for the price figured I'd give them a shot. They have worked very well for me. I honestly can't tell you what they are or what their exact specs are, there are no useful markings on them. I set them up as 550cc injectors in MS with a 1ms dead time. They are high-Z, all ohm out around 13.8 if I remember correctly. I'm running sequential spark and fuel and I have a steady idle at 750rpm and I've ran the boost up to 19lbs on my HY35 so far with no kaboom and no leaning. No idea what HP I was making, though I do intend to take a trip to a dyno shortly after getting this wastegate exhaust leak fixed (hopefully today if USPS ever shows up). YMMV with random ebay parts. It was that seller I ordered from and all the injectors I received from him/her were identical. PS - With the stock turbo and exhaust I was able to pull 30mpg out of them during a few test runs as well. I haven't got to do extensive cruising testing since switching to the Holset yet.

As someone going through the VEAL process (and pretty far in) let me give you a tip that eluded me for a little bit. Set VEAL to be disabled below operating temp (either 185 or 190 for me). Depending on whether or not you're turbo'd and using an intercooler, and where in the piping you have your IAT sensor, you will want to drive the car around until it warms up enough for VEAL to kick in. On my setup my IAT is on my intercooler piping between the IC and the throttle body. When sitting still while warming up warm air from the radiator is blown onto this pipe. Very little airflow is happening in the intake piping because my PWM idle valve is supplying air to my motor for idling which it's taking from just behind the air filter, which is located in my front driver's side wheel well under the headlight. The IAT sensor starts to show much warmer temperatures than what the engine is actually seeing because of the heat soak on the I/C piping and the lack of airflow. This will throw your fuel mixture calculations all off. If you're trying to tune your idle during long sessions of just sitting around and you have a setup anything like mine you'll get wildly varying results due to this. You'll also throw your map off if you sit around and let it heatsoak and then take off driving with VEAL active. I've found that for letting VEAL effectively tune the lower half of my 16x30 map driving around from stoplight to stoplight in town with light traffic is the most effective means. This keeps enough air going through my intake piping that the readings stay accurate and it gave me a chance to manually tune my idle areas which are locked out in VEAL because it likes to diddle them otherwise.

Just wanted to throw something in here that made life a whole lot easier for me during re-assembly (and I felt like a dunce for not thinking about it during disassembly). If disassembling, take your replacement gasket and line it up where you know the top bolts are on the intake and set it in place on top of the manifold leaning against the tapet cover. When reassembling, use the old gasket (if still mostly intact) in the same fashion. So much easier than trying to remember a tiny picture out of a book.

It all depends on your taste. When I recently got my motor back together with ported intake/exhaust manifolds and an HY35, I just ran a downpipe that necked from 2.5" from the turbo to 3" at the bottom with a mandrel bent piece that exited the car behind the front wheel as a temporary measure until I could get to the exhaust shop. To me, it was loud and obnoxious, no way I'd want to drive a car around sounding like that. However, I do have an open dump on my external wastegate. Loud and obnoxious is ok when you're getting on it.

I just went through this a couple of weeks ago on my '83. Not sure if the heat shield setup is the same but on mine as a poster above said removing the heat shield wasn't necessary for manifold removal. A whole lot of blind poking around with an extension was what eventually did the trick for me.

I thought 20-30k for the head was pretty expensive when I read that I'm sure there are people out there that pay what they're asking from time to time. I don't know much about amateur racing series other than there are a lot of rules you have to follow depending on what class you're in. If you were to drop this into your Z, since it is still technically an L28, would you be able to stay in the same class as the other L28 guys?

Very nice, though the carpet dash cap looks so out of place.

I know I've read somewhere that at least at some point they were available for 20-30k. I'm not sure if they still are or if that was the going price for a unit since they're no longer (??) manufactured.

As my mother-in-law has recently taught my 3yo and 2yo girls - "You get what you get and you don't throw a fit!" which the older one preaches to the younger one constantly now. I don't think anyone is trying to talk you out of a 3076, they're just pointing out that bigger turbos can work if you do the legwork to prep your motor for them. If I were you I'd stop second guessing yourself. A 3076 will grow with your needs up to probably 450+ hp so you'll probably never need more (want more? That's a different story.) I was thinking 20psi for my build too when I started but now that I'm very close to being able to make that a reality I'm scared. I'm thinking more like 14-15psi as a daily setting I have a question for Tony, Gollum, or anyone with any experience/opinion on the matter really. For a stock l28et, do you think you would get more immediate gains from: 1) Gutting the efi intake out and port matching the stock head 2) Ignoring the intake initially and having head work done first Assuming of course equal quality of workmanship was put into either process.

I defer to the more experienced people but it seems logical to me to choose a turbo with efficiency islands that you know will fit your motor well instead of living mostly on the edge and then maybe coming into an efficient area at high rpm/boost levels. I can't see any reason to get a ridiculously large turbo unless you're just building a dyno queen and shooting for the largest number attainable.

I'll just confirm that the MTX-L does fine with E85, since most think LC-1 when Innovate widebands are brought up. I'm going dual fuel via the GM flex sensor (the newest one that doesn't cost a fortune). It's actually the lone sensor I have yet to hook up with my MS install, though it's already plumbed into the fuel system (suction side of pump). I'll be doing it with 550cc injectors which I think will carry me up to 375hp or so safely(ish) on E85.

I was thinking about adding a small nitrous shot to my car to help with spool-up until someone on another forum posted this picture.

Took me a bit (to get around to writing this review) but I had great luck dealing with Peter. I ordered my barbed rail late one week and then went to order my Bosch 503cc Ford CFI injectors I had been planning for my build forever, only to find out they were not in stock from my supplier and 'pretty rare these days'. I contacted Peter late Sunday evening and asked if it was too late to change my order. Even though he had already made my rail to my specifications, he set it aside and built me a new 14mm rail and I had it in about a week. It's been installed for a couple of weeks now and everything sealed up and fit right the first try. Excellent service. Would certainly do business with again, and I hope someone has taken that barbed rail off your hands by now.

Going by the maps I've studied of various compressors, the GT3076r can be a very good match for our motors stock up to moderate flow improvements. 500hp might be a stretch though. 400hp shouldn't be a problem. The T04e-50 can make it to those levels (400hp) but it will be working a lot harder and getting a lot hotter to do it. If I had had the money sitting around burning a hole in my pocket yesterday afternoon when my T3 bit it I would have ordered a 3076r without a second thought.

. . . and today filling out some of the VE map my turbo let go I knew it would eventually, as it was old and snaggle-toothed and had been whining for a while. I had an HY35 in great condition primed to replace it . . . in the passenger seat of my truck :\ Now to decide whether or not to pick up a used T3 on the cheap, try my luck with a churbo, or go ahead and get a GT3076 even if it means going in debt for the first time in almost a decade to do so.

The harbor freight adjustable timing gun works fine and is cheap.

Let me get a few more runs in then I'll post it up. My VE map changed all around yesterday after I put my intake back together and swapped some vacuum lines around. I drove it around last night and am pretty happy with the idle and cruising settings, but my load areas need a lot of work to be correct for my motor. I'm ensuring they're very rich and then romping on it and letting VE Analyze lean the areas out to around 12:1. When I started the process I was bogging from a too-rich mixture at about 4,500 rpm. After ~10 full throttle runs it isn't bogging until around 5,500.

Hmm, with some more reading of the ms3x documentation, I'm not entirely sure the secondary trigger should be on 'poll level' in the first place. http://msextra.com/doc/ms3/trigger-wheel.html#dualmiss "The cam signal is a single pulse usually generated by a narrow tooth, vane or window. Technically it is edge triggered. For VR type sensors, the edge setting will depend on the wiring you use (typically Rising) as the signal is a very short pulse. For a hall type sensors you need to ensure that the edge you choose matches up with the phasing as below." Even though poll level triggering isn't explained in great detail, it seems to be used for half-moon type cam triggers where voltage flips from 0v to 5v depending on which half of the disc it's in. While the l28et trigger disc doesn't have what I'd call a 'narrow window', it's definitely not a 180* slot.

Last night I switched to crank triggering on falling edge and cam rising since the DIY disc article has the MS2E setup done this way. I had to bump my wheel offset in TS up from 235 to 259 to maintain correct initial timing. I might try poll level again with the new timing after work today.

I got the harness ran properly Saturday. Had her running again Saturday night. A little fiddling yesterday and a lot this evening with pretty good results. For the Bosch 505 PWM valve I have PWM closed loop idle mode selected, I have the MS3X idle hooked up to pin 3 and vvt hooked up to pin 1 (+12v to pin 2). Non-inverted mode selected. 99hz. Fully closed at 30%, fully open at 90%. Other than that I just set up my idle curve table how I wanted it (850 down to 750 when hot). I took two laps around my town tonight with my afr table at ~15.5 in my cruise zones with about 38* advance in those areas with ve live analyze set to allow 'easy' changes. I stopped for gas after each lap. On the second lap I averaged about 30mpg, and I wasn't babying it. So far so good Back to the original topic, even after running everything permanently and even having the case off and adjusting R11 on the MS3X in between start attempts I could not get "poll level" input triggering to work for the cam input. Rising edge worked fine almost immediately and that's what I've gone with. Does anyone know if I'll run into problems at high rpm using rising edge triggering for both the crank and cam inputs?

I installed JP7 which from my understanding acts the same for the cam input as the 1k resistor that has to be soldered onto the mainboard for the crank . . . or did I miss something in my interpretation?

Really. The show must go on though. I pulled the harnesses back out today so I can work on running everything permanently. I think I might have found out why the "poll level" option wasn't working for me (I don't think I had adjusted the pots on the ms3x board). I won't know for certain until the new laptop arrives.

And then the truck is stolen. Great day!

The Megasquirt unit itself is an ECU. You can either make your own harness(es) for it or buy them premade from a vendor such as DIYautotune. I would personally recommend the latter unless you have a lot of spare time and/or you are a masochist. You'll need an intake air temp sensor and a throttle position sensor at minimum to get your car up and running with MS. A lot more sensors are available if you're interested in fleshing out the setup. Yes. Or you can go to completely different injectors and coil-on-plug. Megasquirt is very flexible. Have you ran the engine much since the rebuild? What was the turn around time? I'll be in the market for a rebuild soonish and I want to use a reputable person. I thought Datsun Spirit was out of the equation but I recently learned that I'll be moving a lot closer to his shop in the near future so it's something I would definitely consider. The feedback I've seen thus far for his work has been positive.