260ZRED

all the info was here already..

yes, engine off, just measuring from battery to that wire leading to alternator.. If y'all say that little voltage drop is nothing to worry about, well thats a good thing! Thanks for the input.

stamped: "14x7 JAPAN" and nothing more. The look to be made out of the same quality alloy oem nissan uses, maybe even softer than that. Polish easy so far I guess I'll post better pics when I'm done polishing. The honey comb center section is gonna be a PITA to do... all those little individual lines! For the outer lip I'm thinking Im just gonna mount them on the Altima, raise her, and put it in D, and just hold some 100grit to the wheels. I think it will work well, its the same concept I always use to polish SU covers (done 4 sets), I just clamp them on a lathe and let them spin, while holding sandpaper to it. Anybody else do that?? Or am I the only crazy guy here lol.. any polishing tips on the center section? Maybe just sandblast that sucker and spray some black paint?? Very tempting... The tires are BFGoodrich G-Force DOT legal slicks.. Can't wait to see how well they grip..

post the pics man.. yahoo doesn't let anyone see your pictures unless they go through some initiation crap probably..

...just trying to figure out what I did wrong...

I'm only getting 12.15 volts at the coil, while the battery is up at 12.24 or 12.23 (jumps around) (yeah I know I need to charge the battery up a bit) All connections everywhere are soldered and sealed with electrical tape, and I'm using the stock nissan wiring for everything (got a separate harness to cut up so, colors match) Is this drop of .1 volts normal? If not, what would be the logical steps to get rid of this drop? I'm not very electronicly inclined, but have just finished all the wiring and the L28ET runs well now. I'm just trying to figure out what I did wrong. The voltage drop at the alternator is only .05 volts, but it does have a much thicker wire.. Would you recomend replacing the BW wire with a thicker gauge? Or is it not "worth" the trouble to get my .1 volts back? Thanks for any advice guys.

I'm in northwest Houston, if you get in trouble and really need some help you're welcome to come over and take pics/notes/whatever to point you in the right direction... cygnusx1, that diagram is scarry.. lol. But it's right and it works..

I got these babies 1 hour ago.. I love how deep dish wheels look on the Z.. I'm thinking full polish will make them come alive. The aluminum is relatively soft and seems to polish easily, without a fuss. The hardest part will be doing the middle section 'honeycomb'..

What do you guys think? Anybody knows what these are called? Are they the "Apllicance" wheels? Any history or compnay name behind these rims? I couldn't find any labels but I haven't cleaned them properly yet. The dish is exactly 3 inches deep...

I got my L28ET running today, trust me, it's a wonderful feeling to hear it run after all this hard work.. I'm running stock boost and stock efi for now. No cold start problems, runs like a champ, even with some of sensors disconnected. Wiring is NOT TOO HARD, I just did it (a few hours ago) so if you need anything just ask, all the right info on how to do it on this site. Most important --- clean every connector and make sure you have good grounds everywhere... that's what screwed me up..

getting 12 volts now... please delete.

when the key is on, Im getting 4.45 volts through to the fuel pump, but when the engine is cranking, Im getting a full 12.6 volts. (battery is a bit low) Is this normal?? Im not running the fuel modulator, and the wiring does not have proper soldered connectors yet. Engine is L28ET, 1982. Running the stock EFI and Fuel pump relays. Why woul dit not give me 12 volts when in on position?????? thanks for any help or info about this.

Am I correct in thinking the BW of coil wire basicly is the power source for the coil? The way it gets this power is through a relay, controlled by the ignition switch??? Please tell me if I'm wrong.. really confused now. the L28ET out of 82 Zx.. going into my 260z. Do you think I can just use the Accessory relay (from 82 ZX) instead of the "ignition" relay (can't find it..) Do you see any problems with this setup? Would this BW wire be now considered a "ignition signal (+) wire? For example, the FAQ says plug three's G goes to ignition signal (+).. etc. thanks for any info.

Can you guys please fill in or tell me what I have WRONG??? This is what I am about to wire. (AND means the wire physicly splits) BR of ignition switch - goes to BR of Acc. Relay AND through a 20amp fuse to YG of ASCD controller. [question 3] WB of ignition switch - goes to WB of fuel pump relay AND to WB of the WB|R plug that goes into the Br|Br fusible links. Y of ignition switch - Y of [service manual label 2] efi harness AND to starter solenoid. BW of ignition switch - BW of the ignition coil plug BW|YW AND to condensor AND to inhibitor relay [question 2] GY - unknown [question 1] Question 1: GY? Anybody? I keep looseing the wire with the service manual, it seems to track all over 3 pages. Sometimes I end up in things like rear defogger or the gauges... Question 2: What is the inhibitor relay and is it necessary for the engine to run well? Question 3: What is the ASCD controller and do I need it for engine to run well? I'm 99.9% sure the answer is 'yes,' but just in case.. Feel free to change anything or fill in the info, or make it simpler if you can. Thanks alot guys. I sure miss the separate L28ET forum.. doh!

I used to drive my Z to school with open header at 7:15 am, past all the cops and the morning traffic (no gas..1000-1400rpm, shifting at 2200 max, but ground still shakes..!) and they just had a dumbass look on their faces, but never did anything. $14.00 for your sticker and you're free. just make sure you're horn's working, headlights, taillights, etc. and there won't be a problem.

I got a good wiring diagram and it has made a world of difference!! You are right about most if not all of those.. and I guess it aint as hard as I wanted to try and make it be! One other question.. can you tell me what I am missing? I have figured out, and labeled, the acc. relay (do I need that?), the fuel pump relay, ignition relay, and the efi relay that was inside the engine compartment. The only wires I'll have to trace and figure out are the LR, Y, G, B, right next to where all the fuses are in the engine comp. Am I missing any relay's needed to make engine run??????? thanks all you turbo ppl who've done this before...

the wires coming from the ignition coil and capacitator, the ones that go BACK throught the firewall in the same harness with the boost sensor wires... can anyone tell me how they are wired?? Is there a wiring schematic for a 1982 turbo anywhere online? I'm lost... too many wires.... aaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

well, I should have the 82 L28ET out in a couple days or so and I'm wondering what are some common ways of increasing power WITHOUT raising the boost. I don't want to raise boost, just want to keep it stock for a while unitll I get a wideband O2 meter, Ultra Megasquirt (when????), and a higher flow fuel pump then the stock turbo one. Along with a sump for the gas tank.. Here's what Im thinking now. 1.go through every electrical connector and clean it. 2.take off the intake manifold, adopt a 240sx TB, and portmatch the entry. 3.NGK wires and plugs (duh, but is Iridium worth the extra price??) 4.cap and rotor I'm out of ideas.. Looking for cheap, not hard to do stuff. Engine will be out of the car for a while so it'll be easier to work on it then once in my 260z. Engine ran ok, and I started pulling it today. Found a "remanufactured" washer on the turbo housing =) Did I miss anything with my short list? thanks for any tips on this.

Will my stock 260z fuel tank work while I search for a better alternative or try to fab. something up, or do you guys think it's too dangerous to even try????? I'd like to drive the car hard (on weekends.) Would I have to drive it mildy b/c of that? I don't have a welder... and really not alot of extra cash. Whatever the addition was in years 1975 and 1976, I'm sure Nissan engineers would not give us something that would not work well!?? Are you saying the baffles in those gas tanks are not good enough for a Turbo fuel injection, but just a N/A fuel injection??? I guess that could make sense I never thought of that. Also, the Atlantic Z car website was unclear about using di-electric grease on connectors. Can some one explain this to me, please? I want to do the swap right and want the engine to run perfect, of course that means all connectors have to be clean! Where would you put the grease after cleaning the contact points with the electric connection cleaner spray??? Am I overthinking this one??? I put di-electric grease on sparkplug wires and got horrible performance, never used it again on anything after... just regular old sandpaper to clean connectors. Also would you recomend cleaning the ECU port itself??????? Or is it better to leave it alone? thanks for any and all info.

thanks!!!!!!!! anybody have a 75-76 gas tank in Houston???

I'd love to find out the same exact thing.

what year was it 75 76 or 77?? the one with baffles but that will bolt right up to a early 260z. I need a decent baffled gas tank..... bad. also, whats min. octane on stock boost???? I am used to putting the cheapest gas in my 260 but the L28ET - is it any different? thanks guys.

it runs beautifully. thanks for the advice guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is a friend who's opinion I trust and value very much, but I just never heard of such a thing, especially on a Z! He's saying the springs have sagged and lost some of their spring-iness, so the valves will not close or open per factory specs, but less, therefore decreasing the performance and parasiting the power of the motor. Sounds pretty bad to me, but I frequent this board often and haven't heard of this problem.. Can I get more people to chime in please... !!!! If I'm going to go to the trouble of pulling one of the springs off, doesn't it just make sense to replace all of them already? But thats an extra 130?? dollars that I could be using for an IC or fuel management, etc.. I'm not planning to rev it past redline, or close to redline for that matter. It won't even be my daily driver, just a weekend and night cruiser. thanks for any advice guys.

1982 2.8 Turbo. Been sitting for 5 years. Got it running decently just now, going to be putting the motor in my 260 soon! Should I replace the valve springs? The head is a P-90. Compression is good on all cylinders (about 130-136 ish) My friend says its a very good idea because when a car sits for so long the springs deform and get weak. Let me know what y'all think. I know it cant hurt but is it necessary???? also, should I try running synthetic oil after a while or stick to reg. oil??