260ZRED

Ok, the fastest the car can go is 2-3 mph. That is at like 5 grand rpm, with turbo whining. When I put the Z in gear with engine off and crank the engine the car doesnt move a bit. When I let off the clutch with engine running, in, gear, the car does not stall. I have put in a L28ET motor with a stock L26flywheel, stock L26 pressure plate, stock L26 clutch disk, and a 5 speed transmition from a 1979 280zx 2 seater. My friend says I need a pressure plate from a 2 seater ZX, not Z. Would this solve my problem??? The tranny is out, clutch/pressure plate are out and I need to put the right stuff back in. Thanks for your help guys.

What is the easiest way of hooking up my 74 L26 water temperature gauge and the oil pressure gauge to the 82 turbo motor? Or would I be better off just junkying the old gauges (they worked fine before tho) and buying aftermarket??? The old engine (L26) is gone so I can't just look at what sender it had nor do I have the wireing schematic for the L26, just the L28ET.. thanks for any help or suggestions.

I wouldn't get rid of that motor after all this hard work and time, but if you do decide to ditch the L28ET, keep me in mind for all the turbo goodies you got! I'll be happy to take it off your hands!!

Those Jap. ZXs are sweet. Are those the stock mirrors we have here but mounted on the fenders? They look pretty close if not same to the stock USA spec. I hope to have a ZX to mess with in a couple weeks.... I want it to scare the pure S30's... and little kids But it has to be 100% functional. Simple can be beautiful.. but I want it to be more mean than beautiful! thanks for all the replies, please keep 'em comeing!

Not sure how rare or 'collectible' these are but if anybody needs a part, our local pick-apart has one... just thought I'd pass this along. year's 1975...

Can you guys share some pics or maybe just ideas of what you think is the meanest looking ZX out there? Wild body kits, wierd bumpers, stock or lifted a bit, just MEAN and beautiful at the same time. Know what I mean? Looking for just ZXs.. the wierder and the meaner, the better I'm just trying to get a couple ideas, anything and everything will help. I'll start off with an awesome black ZX that was on zparts website. I love that car!!! I think it belongs to a member on this board. It looks refined and mean at the same time. thanks in advance for any pics or ideas. http://www.freewebs.com/karma_poleez/mini-untitled.bmp

thats exactly what I wanted to see. (some damn fine motivation and example of how it should be done) props to the owners of those Z's thx!

Time for megasquirt? Or a stock, [factory manual] install of stock components first? Sorry dude I tried to help but you got some bigger problems with running different ECUs, MAFs, etc. AND not knowing exactly what was done?

Don't you have to take it in account that the material removed effectively LOWERED the compression ratio? Maybe that's why he could use higher octane fuel? Even 'simple' tricks like useing a physicly bigger spark plug can help to noticeably increase compression (heard this from my father, who used to built small mopeds and bikes when he was young. He would enlarge and re-thread the spark plug holes and use truck spark-plugs, for 4-5hp mopeds.) Anyway, I don't understand how those grooves could help anything..? As the fuel enters via the valve, it is already in the optimal position to be ignited, right? If not, how could something leading AWAY from the cumbustion chamber help anything???? I'd like to understand this more, it seems to be a really novel and interesting idea.

Where can I find some advice or pictures of some clean fuel injection wireing? In short and plain english: How can I make my wireing not look like $^^ ?? If anybody got pics of their clean engines can you please post so I have an idea of what to shoot for? I'm sure haveing a custom fuel rail, megasquirt, etc.. would help but for now the engine is stock, and the wireing sooo damn messy. thanks in advance.

Would not foam-filled fuel cells prevent this problem?? I thought the whole point of installing a fuel cell, especially with a nice sump like that, was to get rid of all fuel starvation, weather you're brakeing, turning, or accelerateing?

best money you ever spent (factory manual). I would have gone with a paper copy, I like real books, but I guess its all same. You will laugh at the other repair manuals once you open up the factory one. I didn't connect the knock sensor and it runs fine. I don't think too many L28ET swappers use it, I may be wrong tho? Fact is you don't NEED it to run...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=43954&item=7955184450&rd=1 $$650 buy it now price... I have like 4 sets of these laying around, lol maybe 5 sets if I clean attic? Anybody want a set for $600? On Sale =)

I see a light yellow (looks like whiteish-yellow) and a green on mine. Both of them comeing from the same bundle as the fuel injector wires. There are TWO! sensors there, very close to each other. The second sensor was hard to see, but its there, at least on my engine (82). If you're standing in front of the engine (so driver's side is your "right"), the green wire goes on the sensor on the left. Now about 1 inch to the bottom right of that and about 1-2 inches deep is another sensor, where the whiteish yellow wire clips onto. you can't really see it b/c of all the stuff in the way but its there. The actual wires are female and clip onto the male sensors. The area is right near and below the water neck for radiator. Sorry if I confused you even more. If you post a picture I'm sure lots of people could tell you exactly where everything goes.

It's a 260Z (was red once, hence the sn) but it never had a stock ECU. The plug is connected as it sits now and it reaches just fine, but not much further. Im glad I don't have to worry about the thing shakeing. It's one less thing to worry about! The ECU is grounded by means of the harness, right? If I remember correctly, it actually has more than one ground, so there is nothing to be gained by physicly grounding it. I read the factory manual and can't recall anything about grounding the ECU, but I may have missed it. I'll drain the oil and play a bit with the cooler set up... after I pass, err I mean make an A!!!!, on my CalcIII (vector calc) test. I never thought I could HATE the letters i j k, but I do, with a burning passion! Just 3 letters, and yet so many torturous, confusing things you can do with them....

Do you turbo guys think this is an acceptable place to mount the computer? The dash should fit with no problems, and Im not running any a/c or heater stuff in that area. Also, I decided to put a soft pad under the ecu, just to kinda isolate it from shock? and shakeing from the car driveing. Has anyone actually experienced a problem like that or am I just too damn paranoid? =) I got like 100 other things to do but for some reason I start polishing my water pump pulley, lol. I plan to eventually polish anything and everything in there. But for now, just this!! Crappy pics but I had to share my joy!!!!!!! =) One last thing, can anyone post a pic or at least tell me how they routed the oil cooler lines and the actual unit?? My Z sits about 3 inches off the ground at the lowest point and the airdam is about 1/2 inch off the ground and Im afraid if I mount the oil cooler too low I might break something and loose oil. I have it mounted sideways (think about how the factory mounted it and turn it 90 degrees, so no air flows through it when you move) I need to somehow correct this, hopefully with a cheap/creative way =) thanks, Igor

What color are the wires you don't know? In any case, get a factory service manual, or just the full wireing diagram from it. I have my blown up copy here on my desk, if you tell me what color the wire is, I can pinpoint you in the right direction. also, clean every connector and every ground, it helps alot. The stock L28ET wireing is pretty simple, trust me. Its another thing tho when someone else jacked with it and you dont know what exactly they modded (or screwed up in your case?)

turning the maf around helped alot. I can't belive the engine still idled with the airflow meter faceing the wrong way!!!! I hope I never ever do this again.... ... Time to test drive

In the proccess of cleaning up wireing and re-installing fuel pump on my L28ET I messed up, somewhere. Here's whats going on: The engine runs ok at idle, but dies the second I attempt to give it any gas. It also runs ALOT better (in fact almost perfect) after I 'prime' the fuel pump 3-4 times. I just bought a fuel presure gauge on ebay, waiting for it to arrive but I wanted to know what you guys think could be the culprit here? Engine ran fine (idle and gas) before!! Fuel pump worked fine. All I did was finish up makeing the wireing neat and re-install fuel pump so the fuel lines do not hang out of the car. All grounds were cleaned, all electrical connections checked. Engine does fire up and idle. Idles very well for first 2-3 seconds then start 'lumping' like it has a cam (vacuum leaks?) Would a 'sharp' 90 degree turn of the fuel line going from fuel pump to the dampner reduce the fuel flow enough to cause engine to die???? Should I just get rid of the dampner and see if that helps or is the dampner something the engine really needs? Please help...... thanks in advance!!!!!!

THANKS!! wahoo!

There was a great store mentioned awhile ago but I lost the bookmark when my computer died.. their prices were great. I need (a lot) of wire in different colors, connectors, sleeves, etc. Who do you guys go to for that stuff (in bulk) ? thanks!!!!!!

maybe bad grounds?? sandpaper all the contact points.. it helped me get my L28et running well.

made by "American Raceing" with a supporting rib on the back. 14x5.5, 4x4.5 bolt pattern? Any ideas?? thanks.

Is there anything wrong with using heavy gauge (feels like a 12 or maybe even a 10) 'high power' audio wire for the ignition switch wireing??? I need to route the three wires (fuel, crank, ignition) back to the where they belong (instead of hanging over the fender) and I got some very nice audio wire I need to get rid off. I do solder all my connectors so it won't be a problem. Would useing this "audio" wire cause any problems?? I can't see why it would, I mean wire is just wire, right? Maybe if the resistance is a lot bigger than normal wire, I shouldn't use it?? Can anybody chime in??? I really want to do the car right.. thanks.

SWEET wheels... never let them go!!! They remind of the JDM 6 point stars, it's what I would run if I had the $$$.