260ZRED

I feel the pain man. Been trying to get my blinker's and other electrical $%&* to work. Fixed horn, fixed emergency flasheres, still can't get the blinkers and wiper motor to work. Going to make switches for them for now. Not the best way to do I know but it'll do. So why are using a small Honda battery under the dash?? What are you powering with it?

Take credit by exam or take the class elsewhere?

As far as I understand it, V3.0 boards do not require an HEI module to control ignition... Now as for the actual wiring if anyone had success please share! My MS V3 should get here soon...

I have three wires coming off the stock 260z tach: black, red with black stripe, and green. How would I go about hooking this up to a stock L28ET set up (stock ZXT coil, etc.)?? I'm assuming black=ground, green=12volts and RB = (-) coil But I tried that (and other combos) and I can not get the tach to work. Should I try another tach or do I need a resistor somewhere in there or do I have the wiring wrong??? Thanks in advance for any of your help..

No it had six spokes I think.. and no louvers, just a super clean stock lookin' silver 280z.

seen that silver Z @ UH many times... guy loves the car.. you can tell! It sounded carb'd when he fired it up.. a nice mellowlike exhaust pitch..

10-13?? valve covers, all kinds =)

8 six spokes 4 nazi wheels 4 wheels like in my avatar 4 14x7 deep dish JDM rims w/ slicks 2 front cowl panels 2 mr2 seats 1 porsche 944 seat 2 Z seats 280z console drivers door 2 fenders 5 headliners 10-15 headlight buckets? giant boxes of knobs, etc.. Arizona Z car custom intake 1 full length exhaust system 2.25" 1 260z dash 2 airdams ..........etc.

Guys... can you help me out with this one? I have air, to be treated as an ideal gas @ 8 bar and 600K. I need to find either the density or the specific volume (which is just the inverse of density...) I do NOT know the actual mass or the actual volume, but I need to find the specific volume, to find mass flow rate @ steady state. I have the area and Velocity, just need the sp.volume... Can I do this: Pv=mRT with (R=Rgiven/M) So, v/m=[R*T] / [P*MolarMass of air] v/m=specific volume, right? Is this the right way or not??? I'm really confused.. Thanks for any help about this. Igor

Looks nice! Are you going to use that stock ZXT intake? I've had a lot of problems with so many "plugs" that you gotta use for all the unneeded crap. I always had a vacuum leak somewhere in there, then finally switched to a n42 intake, which fixed all the problems. What turbo you running?

Got it off Ebay, $350.00 Supposedly this is an Arizona Z creation, can anyone confirm? The throttle arm hits one of the runners so I will need to take the whole TB assembly off, held on by tiny hex bolts.. and grind the throttle arm down. If this IS Arizona Z I CAN NOT BELIEVE THEY HAVEN'T TESTED HOW THE THROTTLE LINKAGE WORKS! You can see the arm hitting/grinding against the runner in the first picture. Anyway the real question is: how do I use injectors with these tube injector bung things? They are "o-ring" right? I have never seen anything besides the regular barbed Datsun injectors so can anyone please tell me what I need to use? (besides an o-ring fuel rail) here are some pics: thanks for any info!

Isn't that what's supposed to happen?? I mean if the ecu doesnt sense the engine is running it turns off the fuel pump in 4-5 seconds. Like evildky said, a fuse is a very good idea if you are worried. Also the factory fuel pumps often die by themselves, it's very very common (rust/crud in the gas tank, wear and tear, etc.)

I am not using any modulator. Just look @ you wire diagram there should be a wire coming out of the fuel pump relay that goes straight to the + of the pump. The - of the pump should be connected to a good ground, mine is connected directly to the - terminal of my battery. You can always wire it on an off/on switch but it's better to use a relay like the factory does.

I'm in the NW, where 290 crosses 1960. Im one in a group, just not very active as either my Z doesn't run or I am too busy with school (UH, mechanical engineering) or more often, its usually both.

Is there anything wrong with joining the j-pipe and the 240sx throttle body with a silicone coupler? They are almost the exact same diameter, maybe off by less than a 1/16 of an inch.. Or is this a bad idea? I was hoping to have the car running again tommorow and this would simplify things a bit; instead of having the ZXT design duplicated and enlarged (to fit the TB mouth, inside the jp and then finding a new rubber seal, etc.) thx for any and all advice..

4 on top, 6 on bottom. the middle bottom ones are the hardest to get to.. usually. You can't see them, just have to go by feel.

Would I be safe if I bolt on a n42 intake instead of the stock turbo intake?? The only thing I would lose is the emergency pop-off valve, right? The rest of the engine set-up is stock.. but I have 3 ugly block off plates on the turbo intake and the n42 looks soo nice in comparison. While the intake is off I will also modify the J-pipe to accept the 240sx TB.. Should I also put in a 'real' BOV @ the same time? Or would it be OK to run as-is for a while, without the pop-off valve??????? Thanks for any advice guys.

yeah I forgot to do the ecu connector's.. Going to replace the water temp sensor and do the above..maybe that'll fix her!

Car drives like a dream when the temperatures are under 180-190. I just cleaned every connector on the car. Idles smoothly, a joy to drive, etc.. BUT.... As soon as I drive it for 5-10 mionutes and temps approach about 180-190 I get terrible hesitation and stumbling. No smoke/black soot coming out of exhaust... Fuel pressure stays @ around 30-35 psi (running stock ZXT fuel pump for now) Could it be vapor lock? I felt the fuel lines and they are too hot to keep a hand on them - they're boiling! Could it be the water temp sensor? Any other ideas? Please help!!

don't trust me do ya? (I am the seller of this item) I think about half of all ZX's out there run these same lights. BTW, these are the most perfect tail lights I've ever seen, and I've seen maybe over a couple hundred pairs (while workin @ a Z junkyard) ..rare stuff...

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102273&highlight=front+cover found this old post.. to anyone wondering bout the same thing, the answer is "yes", 6-cyl timing covers are all interchangeable!