260ZRED

lets keep this thread going. 260z with a L28ET - 2330 lbs with ~1/2 tank of gas. all stock bodypanels, glass, etc. no: A/C heat air dam interior (most) pass seat add: rear strut tower bar r200 diff porsche 944 driver's seat shooting for 2200 lbs empty!

I really need a set of resistors to install MS very very soon and the online store I ordered them at is out of stock. I have a complete 280zx non turbo car to use for parts but I dont know if it has the resistors and if it does where are they located? (are they part of the wire harness?) Theres nothing near the brake master.. (from my search this is where they should be?) Please advice.. Thanks, Igor

Does this actually work? Anyone know? If it looks like... and smells like... its probably ...... ! http://www.dieseltex.com/pages/2/index.htm

Bone stock, the TDI has 40 ft-lbs of torque MORE than the original 22RE Toyota motor. And it has that torque available @ 1800rpm. Stock boost is set to 15-16lbs. I don't think it would require high constant boost once it's up to 55-60mph drving.. I need to talk to someone who's done this (or something similar) before... I just don't know anyone who has.

I would love to use a Toy-diesel but again, they are $$$ and very hard to come by over here in any form. So it's really not an option for me. No diesel's were legally imported in the US after 1985, when the EPA banned their importation because of emissions. Importing a half-clip is an option but the TDI will cost less and parts are available here. So I still think a built & tuned TDI motor would be my best bet. Do you suppose 35-40 mpg @ 55mph towing a 5000lb trailer is possible? (upped boost, better IC, improving the trucks aerodynamics, etc?) Or am I being over optimistic here..?

I've thought about that, but the Toyota 2L-T (turbo diesel) engines are nearly impossible to find. here's a truck I've been watching, it's an 85 Toyota Turbo Diesel: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4633716148&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT as you can see, they dont go for cheap!! A 50,000mi TDI motor can be had for ~2000.00-2500.00 complete, with many parts available and a limited but existing aftermarket support. It makes the exact same power as the bigger Toy. Diesel. ACME Adapters makes a transmission adapter to mate the TDI engine to the Toy. pickup 5 speed tranny. And TDI aftermarket support is slowly growing. The main problem is.. is it worth it? I want to get at least 35-40mpg fully loaded, towing 4500lbs @ 55mph. Empty I would like to see 55mpg. I dont think thats unrealistic, but if it takes too much $$$ then its not worth it. All in all, a good challenge! Any other engine suggestions?? thx, Igor

I found a great program that helped out a lot, CarTest. It actually spits out a very similar value as to what Olie calculated. I've messed around with it, pluggin in know values for cars I have/had, and it is VERY accurate, the output it has given me falls within 2-3 MPG that I have actually seen. It's an awesome program, even though its a little old. http://www.cartestsoftware.com/cartest4.5/

I'm studying ME but this is WAY WAY beyond me @ this point. I would really appreciate if someone could give me a reference to read or a way of calculating what I need. Anything will help. What I'm trying to do is figure out what kind of gas mileage I can get out of a CUSTOM, towing rig I want to build. Here's the setup now: 91 Toyota Pickup - 2.4Liter 22RE, 2WD, 5speed, curb weight 3000lbs coefficient of drag: 0.44 112hp @4600 rpm 142 ft-lbs @3400 rpm (stock) empty: 26-27 mpg @ 70-75mph loaded with trailer (1100lbs) ONLY: 17mpg @70-75 loaded with a trailer & car: 16 mpg @ 58-60mph trailer weights exactly 1100lbs, car weights on average ~3200-3400lbs New potential powerplant specs: engine swap candidate #1: 1.9L VW TDI Turbo Diesel Intercooled 100hp@4000rpm 177ft-lbs@1800 (bone stock) from: a 2003 Jetta curb weight: 3200 lbs Coefficient of drag: 0.32 hwy: 49 mpg city: 42 mpg I want to put the TDI engine in the Toyota and keep everything else the same, keep the Toy 5 speed tranny, the diff, 2wd, etc. What would be the ROUGH mpg I can expect from this towing rig? Empty/Loaded? Assuming I can swap engines only and the drive train losses from transmission, etc. remain the same? The TDI diesels are very de-tuned for the US market for emission reasons. Chipped, better intake & exhaust they are making ~110hp and 220 ft-lbs of torque (sourced from forums.tdiclub.com) AND get over 55mpg hwy (better than stock ratings). Its kind of like putting a 2.5" down pipe on a L28ET I guess.. Please explain your logic and reasoning for figuring out the potential MPG once the TDI engine is in & running. All ideas/advice comments are VERY welcome. This is a long term project with a healthy budget and a strong will to see it through. I will be concentrating heavily on reducing the Truck's COD as well. No weight reduction will be possible, however, because it will be set up for towing. I've been told that's a big no-no altho it would help with MPG considerably. thank you in advance for any ideas or advice. Igor

WOW, looking great! Count me in for a "simple" pair. Remember guys, this is just the base door panel SHELL he's offering, NOT A COMPLETE door panel with ___ and ___ and ____. Anyway, keep up the great work!

the singles look just plain MEAN, the duals ehh.. like an evolved copy of an eclipse or a 350z?? Singles JUST LIKE YOU DREW IT..!

Just wanted a quick confirmation on this one. ALL the 280ZXT's automatics came with 3.364:1 R200's right? Thanks, Igor

Some random stuff that I need to know from you guys! Please explain! 1)When it rains is it true you get worse gas mileage? If so, why? 2)Is it true that simply turning the LOWEST rpm possible while cruising will give you the best mileage? This seems to make sense as less RPM==>Less Air==>Less fuel? 3)How does humidity affect engine power output (and gas mileage)? Thx, Igor

"....The images displayed above are not real photographs, but digital mock-ups created for the competition....." Looks like fancy (actually not really fancy) photoshop to me

Tractor for sale with NO INFO OF ANY KIND ABOUT THE LOCATION??? Sad thing is people are actually bidding on some of the stuff he has. I'm with ebay's live help right now to try and let them know what's going on.

awesome find! Please post some pics when you get a chance..

How to post pictures/links: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98049 (None of the pics are showing up for me)

"How to Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget" by David Vizard worth every penny..

You have to use a good paint stripper. The best are usually called "aircraft" paint strippers... I buy mine @ Walmart. It works well for getting the factory paint off the wheels. You still have to scrub them with a brush or coarse steel wool (GLOVES for paint stripper you dont want to touch that stuff!) but it can save money if youre willing to do the work yourself.

All the 280zx Turbos (pushing ~170 horsepower) had oil coolers. If the 170hp L28ET didn't need it why would Nissan go to through the trouble of putting an oil cooler on every car? Just something to consider.

thanks for the info.

Guys what kind of laptop what you recommend I get for using with Megasquirt? Seems to be problems with using newer laptops with Win. XP? or will any laptop work? Also what's the name of the cable that's required for tuning? thx.

I've heard for turbo Z's you actualy don't need to shave off any weight from the flywheel. Something about keeping the turbo spooled up.. I'd go with the stock resurfaced flywheel and save the $$$ for something else!

Davy, count me in as well. (early) '74 260z. Maybe I missed it but how will the skins be attached to the actual door? Same way as regular panels? Or is that up to the buyer to make/decide? I would also like to see some pics..! Please keep us updated. thanks, Igor

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-Datsun-240z-hood-Great-Condition_W0QQitemZ4595382049QQcategoryZ34204QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I like the "...It is worth over a $1000..."