kiwi303

Old setup new setup

I'd just cut out the diff and run a longer driveshaft through where the diff was, and use gears to hook that up to the output shaft of the gearbox. hang on and I'll do another MSPaint job of what I mean

no, since the rear is fixed, the gears turn the driveshaft to the rears, at most times the rear wheels rolling along will make the fronts turn anyway... it's only if both rears spin out that there should be sufficient speed difference between the front and rears to make the modified VLSD lock up and start spinning the fronts. edit: unless you fit funny car style mini front wheels and want to do front wheel burnouts constantly while the rears do the driving

in post #30, "fit a driveshaft with a 1:1 connection between the final gearbox output shaft and the driveshaft" then the suggestion of a viscous coupling turned down from a VLSD. like below: fix one side's shaft to the carrier if it's not already, and let the VLSD's viscosity do the work of turning the other shaft.

http://www.zrelated.com/VLSD_files/pic55.JPG if it's like my Hilux diff I had out and sitting in the workshop this weekend as I replaced the CV joint seals and re-greased everything, the side shafts are splined and just poke straight into the carrier sides. I think one side is cut into the carrier, the other is run by the spider gears, or the VLSD in this case. so if you have just the carrier, and cut off the crown gear, with power being applied from one shaft, then the cut down VLSD will act as a viscous coupling to turn the other shaft. do you get what I am trying to say? My photoshop sucked, so I gave up If you put this between the gearbox drive, and the front diff, you will have a rear drive biased AWD, putt it between the gearbox drive and the rear diff and you will have front biased AWD I think... any engineers see any problems?

I've been thinking along the lines of a viscous coupling... fit a driveshaft with a 1:1 connection between the final gearbox output shaft and the driveshaft. and a R200 VSLD carrier such as from the Nissan Serena with the crown gear turned off flush with the outer face of the carrier assembly. the driveshaft splines into the carrier and the shaft out to the front flange is in the other end of the carrier... I'll try and find a photo and photoshop it.

you're already losing power through 2 diffs rather than one... whats a little more parasitical loss

If it's possible to turn that gear down and have it re-cut and re-tempered at a gear place, then re-install it, then maybe a pair of smaller gears working like the Edelbrook timing gear set would do the job? imagine them as 4 nearly equal sized gears, one the output shaft of the GBox, one the Diff gear, and the two driver gears between them. The question is how the drive gear for that diff is applied, if it's bolted to the back of the spider gear carrier housing, then unbolting it and reducing it then re-bolting on again would work. if it's cut into the edge of the carrier housing, nothing will really work.

A little Google work, shows a simplified FWD transaxle having the output shaft of the gearbox driving a diff, the only significant difference is that unlike a RWD diff having a crown gear and a angled drive gear, this has a flat gear that engages another flat faced gear on the shaft, just like two gears on different shafts inside the gearbox. http://www.procarcare.com/includes/content/resourcecenter/encyclopedia/ch20/20Fig14.html

I like autos with cruise control for long distance trips along straight or gently curving roads. just set the speed and watch the scenery go by... Manuals are for thrashing round gnarly roads having fun

Yah... I'm not sure what happens in a FWB gearbox and transaxle. You'll probably have to pick one up cheap and pull it apart to see what's up in there.

as far as left/right bias goes... I don't think it would really matter which way it goes in north/south... so if it crowds the steering shaft, just flip it 180 to fit to the other side of the bay.

this would be for a road car? the possible diff conversions I edited into my post back up in #6 would really only work with offroaders like the dune buggy, a welded diff front and rear isn't too much of a problem offroad, but would be dangerous onroad.

umm... instead of offseting the motor to one side for a centered diff set, or centering the motor and causing an angle to the front centred diff from the offset output from the gearbox, surely fabbing up mounts to have the motor on a lean over top of the gearbox would be simpler? you'll need custom mounts anyway.

yah, sorry if I was a bit abrupt, Mea Culpa I was still busy thinking about what I could remember about the dune buggies and how the diff probs may have been solved there. It helped his "more pics and info" request tho

see his first post "My first thought was the drivetrain of a GTR, but appearently it's been done (would love more info and photos on that car by the way)" that thread is about the GTR conversion...

Snap! you posted at the same time.. I'm not sure what they did with the final drives, I know the concept works, but haven't actually done it myself. The one I have driven around the dunes was pretty nifty tho. edit: Ok, I think I may have an idea of how the diffs were set up remove the carrier with the ring gear, spider gears and shaft gears, and replace that with a double ended female socketed splined shaft with a ring gear on it. pull the shaft from the front and replace with a longer one that reaches the smaller ring gear. basicly you now have a welded diff with a far closer ratio to 1:1 than you had before. does this make sense?

these were just little wee light things like long nose go-carts with balloon tyres, so they often used the cv joints that went to the front wheels of the corolla donor car, chop the front shaft down to about 2" between the rubber boots over the joints on the front, and cut the other and weld in a long enough shaft to reach the rear diff into the middle. If you have a R180 rear diff, you ought to be able to pick up another with the same ratio and side shafts cheap from someone swapping in a R200 with later model CVs into their car. Put that up front and use the side shaft from the FWD to the diff driveshaft flange, and on the other end, bolt up the driveshaft to the rear diff. two R180s ought to manage the power it takes one R200 to tame and if the concept works, THEN you can get a pair of more desirable and therefore expensive R200's.

4wd dune buggies have been made with 1200cc toyota FWD east-west engines and auto boxes by dropping them into a tube frame pointing north-south and running driveshafts to front and rear diffs. maybe grab a FWD Primera front clip with SR20DE and T it then drop that in with the FWD wheel hubs hooked up to a diff? you'd basicly end up with a AWD car.

You mean the black one? thats carbon fibre from a UK company, pricey, but gad it looks nice I'm not sure what if fits, but it looks like the trumpet tops are TVR style, but most of the talk on their site is about rover V8's from the first 3.5's to the later 4.6's, so it's probably recreating the TVR trumpet look on a cheaper rover engine. I found it on this site: http://www.v8engines.com/carbs-plenums.htm they have an ebay store, heres the trumpets alone, they may make trumpet bases for a SBF or SBC as well as rover, no reason not to ask http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Morgan-MG-RV8-TVR-Marcos-Rover-V8-engine-Carbon-Fibre_W0QQitemZ320126651297QQihZ011QQcategoryZ31349QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem the one further down my post with the individual trumpets looking like ships ventilators is a BMW I think. It doesn't look as cool as the RPI one, but ITB's are ITBs and would give crisper response than a single throttle body no matter what the trumpets look like

Thank goodness. no more rotories, 6's boxers etc... As far as intake goes, what sort of plenum and/or intakes would best compliment a flat plane like the one under discussion/design? 8 individual trumpets reaching for the sky? http://www.thewarfields.com/HotRodBlogEngineInjection.htm has a number of pictures. It just seems to anti-climatical to picture a standard round air cleaner and carb setup on a car that would sound as awesome as a flat plane...

That sounds like me. My mothers farm was 1.5 hours out of the town I was studying at university in. I could cut that to an hour at night by watching for lights and taking racing lines through a corner on the wrong side of the road using both lanes rather than just mine. Big hills with Gnarly curves.

Subies are Flat 4's and their engine bays are only big enough for a 2 cyl long motor, I've never worked on one myself, but a mate raced one once, and the Porsche engine is pretty much the only power plant that will go it without enormous amounts of chopping up the engine bay. Another option might be the old Bedford van V4's with a turbo.

Here! I thought "Red" meant "Commie"... Too many old 50-70's spy movies I'm afraid Congrats Grumps.

Does it look to be a FS5W71B? I have one that is definately a FS5W71B but it has T5 in the bellhousing by the spline. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138503 the first pic I post of the bellhousing end view, you can just make out the T5 as a blurry uneven patch in the picture.