kiwi303

Theres also an upper limit on the size of the pipe that makes sense... not making a dig at you guys I just had this thread open when OI found that pic, so copied it in as (sorta) relevant (ish)

you mean rotors like this: just use normal non-vented pads, vented discs cool better than non vented, but are still the same flat gripping surface, I'm not so sure about cross drilled rotors and whether they need special pads to stop the pads dissapearing like cheese through a grater Ferodo Zero pads are what I like for a good general purpose street performance pad, Ferodo Premier or target for higher performance. they're not really race or autocross pads, but I don't do either so have never explored high end pads like the Formula pads. ferodo zero suits me.

fuel is a liquid, air is a gas, there are hundreds of thousands more fuel molecules in the same space in the liquid as opposed to the gas. besides, you're taking the weight of the C in the fuel molecule, and adding two O molecules from the air, and weighing the resultant new molecule. so the amount of CO2 in the exhaust is heavier than the amount of C in the fuel, the H and O in the fuel molecule just become H2O and gets ignored.

at tyres are you running on the front? when I re-tyred my old navara ute from 165 width hard light truck compound to 205 sticky mid performance car compound the steering went from passable to gorrila-shoulders at low speed, high speed was much better tho

theres bucket of guts closed up in the coolroom att he moment, I forgot to go dump them down the back of the farm for the wild pigs after butchering the last wild goat for dogmeat... it's been 4 weeks now, you can guess what it smells like when you open the door.

looks like a Previous owner replaced the hose with a piece of tubing he had lying around and had to bodge something up to make it long enough...

it's covered under farm insurance as it's sitting in a farm shed with no motor, the rover V8 is in bits in the farm workshop at the other end of the farm. But what I'll be getting when it's running will be agreed value full cover. I spoke to an insurance rep when getting another car shifted from fire & theft to full, and she plugged in the figures, for a modified 1978 with V8 and LVVC mod plate, then it's likely to be around $34 a fortnight, agreed value of $30,000.

[Asian accent] Velly Nice doggy, Flied dog with Flied Lice is velly nice[/asian accent] did you get that doggy from Transylvania?

plug your name into the top two boxes http://www.tatuagemdaboa.com.br/

Wool Research NZ has a wool fabric made of woven wool and aramid fibres (not kevlar, but the same synthetic family as kelvar, which is itself an aramid fibre) which is exceedingly difficult to get a knife through, slashes don't work, and a stab needs both hands and a hefty lunge to penetrate. Whats more, it's no heavier than normal fabrics! Theres lots of stuff out there thats rarely brought into the media light.

Carbon Nanotubes are also self-repairing to an extent, inlike most substances which flap about loose when broken, the bonds in the nanotubes are such as they seek to join up again. one possible application is self repairing fuel tanks and wheels. imagine getting a puncture, removing the nail with pliers, pumping it up again and driving off.

borrow someones doggie, it'll go investigate that intriguing smell, and show you where it is. I's worked for me finding a dead possum in the tractor shed, just bring one of the farm dogs up and set it to work.

that probably means there's no rust on my teeth I drink coke every now and again through my favourite drink is Demon Energy, I've a bottle of septone rust remover I have used on some jobs to clear rust where i can't get a wire wheel on the angle grinder into before painting farm equipment, reading the label, that's phos. acid too.

I believe that stuff, diluted down, is what give Coke it's bite

I wnet into town to the Vet today, and dropped around to the freight depot I've now got a V8 Rover engine sitting on the transport tray of the tractor in the farm implement shed next to the workshop Next step, stripping and cleaning it

do you use wax over the paint and clearcoat? the wax should act as a barrier. Wash the car in the affected spot with dishwash liquid in water to remove the wax and stain and then re-wax.

rule of thumb I've picked up from reading specs of shop-installed setups is the piping tends to be 1/2 the difference of the throttle body and the turbo outlet. I.E. 2" turbo outlet + 2.5" TB/plenum entry = 2.25" intercooler piping connecting everything. Dunno if there's any reasoning behind this, but it's just what I've seen reading magazine buildups and browsing car shows.

I use a similiar setup for cleaning the gun barrel when I buy in secondhand guns. a steel cleaning rod down the bore into a cork at the muzzle, held clear of contact with rubber bands around the shaft every now and again through the barrel, a mix of cloudy ammonia and water down the barrel provides the ions, and also assists to dissolve the copper residue. The cleaning rod comes out covered with a thick jelly-like black slime, wipe it off and scrub with a good detergent and put a jag on, then clean the barrel as per normal. Never done it to car parts, but no reason why it wouldn't also work there

how fussed are you about a perfect showroom/concours shine? I've only re-done street cars not show cars, and I go down to 1600 grit wet paper, then use a cutting compound, followed by a polish and clearcoat wax. don't use a all-in-one cut'n'polish type polish, and skimping on the wax can ruin a fine job of polishing.

any good rural supplies store will have overalls to keep the cows from messing up your clothes

Until a new thread gets started, I was browsing around trademe (the NZ Ebay) looking at what gearboxes to fit the rover engine I'm getting, and saw the old 3 speed side shift ford Falcon boxes, and what crossed my mind was that a few air rams, one for the cluch master cyl, one each for the 2 throw leavers, and a electronics major at the local polytech to make a controller, and you'd have an auto paddle box made out of a manual. Back on the flat plane topic, I've still had no response from the auckland foundary, so I may have to actually pick up the phone and call the buggers if they don't answer their emails... I hate that, being deaf is a bit of a problem with phone conversations

I'm on a river valley farm about 20 minutes flying time from NZ's main air force aircrew training base, I've had C-130's scream past at a low enough height that you can look DOWN on them from the top paddocks. the manuverablity of those fat birds is pretty amazing, they'd turn the corner by the bridge where the valley pinches in and turns about 90 degress on a 45 degree bank and still keep the higher wing below the valley sides. Any SAM radar would have to be sited IN the valley itself to find them.

I ran a tape measure from the top of the tire to the roof of the wheel well, looks to be about 8 or so inches clearance, out at the outside edge of the well it drops in to about 5 inches but looking at the suspension geometry it looks like the tire will come up inside that. You should be fine slapping the 70 section tires in, if nothing else if theres rub on the top you can slap on some taller bump stops.

do you need new rotors? I had a wheel come off a nissan Laurel once, screeched down the road on the rotor and buggered it. I ended up driving it on a rotor with an arc 1/2 inch deep ground out of it from scraping along the road with the brakes on.

I'll run a tape measure through the wheel well to check vertical clearance later today when I'm passing the shed, it's 3 Km from the house up a side valley at the far end of the farm so I can't just pop out and have a look like if it were in the garage workshop