kiwi303

I'd say the top three. lodge a dispute with the PD and the towies pronto and get your lawyer onboard to give advice. Here (well in Hamilton anyway, don't know about nelson, but similiar probably) the council does the work, not the cops, unless the car is a hazard to other road users. in which case it's towed promptly by whoever is next on the cops list of towies-to-use, if it's not a hazard the council rings, if they can make no contact within 24 hours by phone, a sticker on the windscreen and a letter in the mail, three days later it's a fine and impound/towing fees. Towing the car same day, and being unable to provide details promptly as to where it was, is a bad foulup in my view... go for the balls and make them decide not to do it again

I was talking with a garage guy recently who buys old bikes and scraps them for parts. he mentioned running a Toyota 3Y engine in a hilux with 4x 600cc bike carbs, one to each cylinder instead of the stock piece of crap autochoke carb toyota fitted them with. That got me thinking, what would a L series motor be like with individual carbs? straight line equal length tubes out to a motorbike side draft carburettor... If two SU's are good, and 3 Webers are better, what about 6 of them? Anyone done this? should I round up a set of six carbs and hook them up?

I had a look at his ebay store, then asked a Q on the ZX carpet auction... they can do ZX 2+2, and at a price, that includign shippign to NZ, is pretty attractive Rather than cut and sew my own by hand with a sailmakers needle I might just use him. Whats the backing like? will it do as sound deadening without needing jute or felt on the floors? How solid is the hemming, is the stiching solid? sorry for all the Q's thanks in advance for your replies

Ah... so yours is army surplus, sold off by the Jap Govt, the ones with the crysanthamum on are war captures brought home by the squaddies.

still got a crysanthamum on it?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Nissan/Engines-drive-trains/auction-158242778.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Nissan/Engines-drive-trains/auction-158514640.htm call it maybe 2 grand to have a shipping company pick up, crate, do the paperwork and send it the the states. cheap RB's here more seriously, rather than poking fun at you and the relative disparity of prices for SBC's and jap 6's there and here, why not google for a shippign company, theres a number in Chch that handle that sort of thing.

outside hosted blog with progress updates, plus an open thread here to quiz ya about why and how you are doing things.

Not unless it's herbie anyway I'd say pull out the motor and stick it in the corner of your folks garage, save any other useful bits to plug into a later car in better condition, sell the rest. Sounds like a parts car to me.

On the topic of the different coolant types mentioned in earlier pages, how does plain Glycerine byproduct from biodiesel stack up as a coolant? I believe it's similiar chemical composition to glycol, and is pretty much free if making your own Biodiesel. All it would take is a little washing and nutralising of the glycerine to ensure any of the lye and sludge from the biodiesel manufacturing is out of it.

depends on how obnoxious the ******* is, some could do with a 12G shotgun under the castle doctrine...

If it's anything like the NZ black market in stolen cars, it will be stripped by now and the bits will show up in dibs and drabs under 10 or 15 different online auction usernames from different local areas. They probably nicked it expecting a bunch of stuff they could flog quickly on the net and are chortling in delight at the thought of just how much MORE cash they will realise this time round. Not very comforting, but I wouldn't get your hopes up to high. If it hasn't been found abandoned already after a wheel screaming joyride by punks who wanted to have fun but not break their own cars, it's likely gone for good.

theres a bolt, what looks like a crayon and some sort of kids fabric toy car track in the footwell? has Junior been playing where he oughtn't? From my point of view the steering wheel and instrument cluster are all on the wrong side of the car

I got 3 right :S

well, RB30E and RB20E, while not a dime a dozen are still very cheap these days, it's usually possible to buy a late 80's shagged out VL commodore with either 2 or 3 litre RB single cam motors for less than the cost of a bare SR20DET motor. Usually around $300 or so for a RB20E and $500 for a RB30E working motor and loom/ecu. In this case tho I can get the RB20E a lot cheaper. the other cheapie I'm eyeing is an L20E on trademe.co.nz for $150

Ok, this is pretty much the best thread I could find searching and so old I need not fear hijacking it since it's long since died. I've been planning on a SR20DET engine swap since I like the SR20 platform. however I have the option of picking up a RB20E for piss cheap. However it's a Single cam rather than a RB20DET twin cam turbo. However I will then have the option of later when the budget allows, of finding a RB26DETT or RB25DET head off a motor that threw a rod through the block or something plus some turbo pistons. I was speaking with a mechanic mate and he said a twin cam head will fit a single cam block with no further alterations than retrofitting the timing pulleys from the twin block over to the single block. So what I want to know, is what is the maximum power the stock non-turbo RB20 crank and rods will manage to produce? I would like to just swap heads and pistons. If I can fit the cheap RB20E for now, and upgrade it later, I'll be able to have my new Z on the road that much sooner

Well, they turn out to be made by Hamilton Jet, http://www.hamiltonjet.co.nz so I've sent off an email to see what they say The mystery is almost solved Hopefully I'll be able to flog them off somewhere else to a jet boater or boatbuilder, if not back to the factory to become factory refurbished parts they then sell on again All the more cash to pour into the Z

so a LD28 crank into a L28 gives a stroker with: 86 x 83 Using http://www.online-calculators.co.uk/volumetric/cylindervolume.php (my maths sucks without a fancy calculator, better than the MS windows build in calc) to give a cylinder size of 482.32485714285673 then multiplying the result by 6 for number of cylinders gives: 2893.9491428571405 or close enough to 2894cc. 2.9 litres. Yet I all a read on this forum in terms of stroker builds are 3.0 or 3.1 not 2.9 do the strokers also get bored out, or does installing the LD28 crank into L28 do something I'm missing from the straight bore x stroke lists here?

I prefer In-Steins theory of special relationality. "The more steins of alcohol consumed, the closer your drinking buddies become, until at saturation point blood brotherhood ensues"

From a comment on the Electrolysis thread... just how many here have collectable or milsurp rifles or pistols residing in the rack to complement the old classics in the garage? I've a couple of old .303's and an old .308 sporter built on a german war standard mauser 98 action.

time for the non-tech forum you reckon? back on the car topic, I'm using a pottle of Septone rust converter on my fairlady, however it's too cold at the moment to work quickly, and a long way from the closes power outlet to run a hairdryer cord

Yep. 1940 Lee Enfield, SMLE No 1 Mk III* Ishapore manufactured. 1898 MLE with NZ markings enfield small arms factory. Parker Hale Safari war reparations Mauser 98 action with the stripper clip thumb cutout in the side showing it was made on former german military machinery and a 10/22 and H&R topper, both much newer

Is there any benefit to a shared blowoff valve as opposed to a pair of individual manifolds with their independant valves as in: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113166

While I was out the back of the farm at the hayshed i've got the Z in now (3 km from the house down the back of a valley not nearly as convenient as the shed by the house ) looking over the trim panels and gearbox I had a look at the pipes as well. I was thinking as bulky as they were, and being Ali, that they would be intake plenums of some description, and as coming with a Z car, possibly nissan. Anyhow a closer look shows soot inside, and the small pipes to the left of the pic go to a square jacket around the actual exhaust pipes. looking in the open ends at the right of the pic shows a gap between the inner pipe and a jacket down the curved pipes, it looks likely that the exhaust pipes continue to be sleeved with a water jacket further. with the volume of water that looks to use, the probably are marine, and made of ali to stop saltwater corrosion. Thanks for your help guys, now I just need to work out what to sell them as, or if just to take them to a scrap dealer for the ali value. 5c might be enough

Does anyone have clear pics of the three different gearboxes? How do you tell if they are A, B or C FS5W71 boxes? This site: http://www.az-zbum.com/information.transmission.shtml has pics of a FS5W71C This site: http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9505 has a pic of a C and a B next to each other. But I can't find any pics of an "A" box, can someone help? I know my gearbox is not a C since it doesn't have the webbing over the box the C has in those pics, and has free standing ears and is smooth like the B in the pic, but given my Fairlady has cruise control switches and I haven't met any manuals with cruise control before, I'm not going to automatically assume the box is a B as the chronolgical dates suggest it ought to be if the car was manual when built.

Anyone here recognise these? They came in the miscellaneous bits boxes I got with my new '78 fairlady project car. The car has already had the motor stripped out and the exhaust system looks to be fabbed up for a V8 or V6 twin pipe setup there's an arrow that curls back on itself moulded into the boxy part of it, which makes me suspect turbo intakes maybe? Are these off a Nissan V6 anyone can recognise? or another manufacturers V6? Anyone know the maker that uses a curled arrow as a logo? cheers