kiwi303

yep, looks like it fell out the bottom and got dragged along the road by it's cable at some point!

there are 2 main international standards for mobile networks, GSM and CDMA your provider will be using one of those, and there will most likely be a provider using the same protocol where you are going. most of the big mobile companies have plenty of overseas contracts with providers using the same protocol to enable their users to "rent" usage of an overseas providers system. check your phone settings and enable "roaming" and you should be fine. I know my cousins phone from australia worked in the UK, Sweden, France, Switzerland the Ukraine and Poland, as well as Iceland. If an itsy bitsy teleco from a country with 12 mil people can roam that far, think of the reach a major company from a country with 250 mil inhabitants will have

I've been told TVR in the UK used flat plane V8's with a balance shaft system. AJ Melling is the designer, and they're based on a Judd engine. however I can't find any details about the balance shafts. "The specalist sports car firm TVR also produced their own V8 engine in 4.2 (350bhp) and 4.5 (420/440bhp) liter forms for the TVR Cerbera. Designed by Al Melling, the APJ8 engine features a flat-plane crank and 75 degree Vee"

ah, so much for that Idea then, I thought the single shaft was because of the V layout of the engine not the crank configuration.

looking at this picture, with it's single balance shaft in the V, as opposed to the I4 twin shafts, got me thinking. I had thought a V8 would need a pair of shafts the same as a I4, but if a single one can work... Are there any OHC or DOHC V8 heads compatible with pushrod blocks? cases where the manufacturer has gone to OHC but to keep manufacturing costs down use the same basic block design with the camshaft and lifters deleted, but kepping the crankshaft etc the same. In such a case, can a pair of OHC heads be placed on an older pushrod block, and the cam in the valley be replaced with a balance shaft? It would take some machineing to allow both the OHC timing belt/chain and the balance shaft chain to both come off the crankshft, but it would be simpler than welding on a balance shaft housing onto a block thats not designed with one cast in.

drop the tail height so the top of the spoiler is level with where the top of the fuel filler panel is, add 8 to 10 inches of length between the Z emblem and the wheel wells. that would do it for me, and give enough room up front to switch in a V12

check out and read everything you can in the 6 cylinder straight 6 nissan section of the forum, odds are the engine your grandad calls non-factory means that someone dropped a 2.8l L series engine in to replace the stock 2.6L the 260 came with. check out the threads and search for 280ZXT upgrade threads. thats likely to be your best bet for a simple (ish) upgrade.

there used to be a slot car club in Hamilton (NZ) for a while, and most people reading the sticker on their car would think little mechanical cars on a track. what is actually stood for was "Sustained Loss Of Traction" which is what the cops wrote tickets out for is they caught anyone drifting in a public space like a car park or a road.

since it would be in an engine destined for high revs, what about using a wild cam and righ rev lifters like the crane or rhoades? they pump up firm at high revs/oil pressure, and let the engine extract the best out of the cam, but at low revs loose pressure and don't open the valves so far, making the wild cam act like a mild one. they are noisy at low revs, but for a high rev engine... maybe it's worth the noisy to obtain a livable idle at the lights in return for some wild noise at cruise.

I think that is called Denial. which isn't a big-ass river in eygpt.

Nice, where did you get the front airdam from? it doesn't look like the MSA ones? Nice babe too

I know through experience that POR15 when you hit a rock with a live axle, with squish not chip. so it's fairly elastic. But I agree, talk to a painter who's done it before and done it properly.

it depends on they tyre type, google "carbible" theres some good info in his tyre pages. depending on the maker, runflats are either VERY stiff walls with a special lip on the rim, or asymetrical beads/sidewalls with a raised centre to the wheel, or some other gimmickry. they need to be fitted to the wheels they came on or they don't work, and Type A runflat rubber won't work on type B runflat wheels etc etc... if you can get the tyres AND wheels together, bolt them up, otherwise just get some bald normal tyres for pennies from a tyre place just to hold the rims off the ground when the wheels are on the car. edit: I just read the tyrerack reviews, no 3 mentions extremely stiff sidewalls. So the wheels to use this model of tyre likely has a specially shaped bead-lock rim to hold the tyre in place even with no air inside.

I've a pair of landrover Rover V8 heads arriving to replace the P6B rover V8 heads on my block that I'll need to size the chambers on, to find the compression chamber size is pretty simple if you have builders putty. The stuff sold in DIY hardware stores that dries without shrinking in any way. just spray the chamber with a light oil, squish in the putty and use a straight edge to level flat with the head face. once dry push a valve to pop it loose and submerge in either a graduated chemistry water volume measure, or glass cup with water on it and a line where the water level is. Now either just read off the increase on the graduated marks, or use a syringe to draw out water until the water level is back to where it was before you dropped in the mould of the chamber. it pays to fill in th tip of the spark plug or the cured putty will bind on the squiggly shapes and you'll have a devil of a time getting it loose.

it's big here in NZ, has been for years, Mostly Skylines, Cefiros and Supras etc. theres a D! championships thats pretty hotly contested and gathers a noticable amount of sponsorship cash.

considering the rotational mass questions, while a fully counterweighted crank would weigh more, but wouldn't that mean the crank itself has sufficient inertia to allow a lighter flywheel to be used to obtain the same rotational mass. Looking at the thread running elsewhere on "best street driven clutches" a twin plate clutch on a superlight flywheel, should equate to similar rotational mass as the non-counterweighted with a standard flywheel/clutch setup?

Dang, Wish I could afford a $14,000 engine, there are a number of crate motors in the petrolhead magazine I have now. A Supercharged 350ci Chev one for 14,673, 507Hp A Ford 521ci Super Cobra Jet 580Hp for 13,350 A LS2 6,0L 400Hp for $7240 No LS1 in this ad, but they're usually around 6K, add a twin turbo bolt on kit for a LS1, either 420Kw (600hp) and 1050Nm for $8082 or a 450Kw and 850Nm for $7353 The exchange rate is around 75-65c US to a dollar NZ, so you guys could get them for 30% off There must be even more options over there in the home of the free and land of the V8

A sticky with links to the different regional Z car club forums in the welcome/newbies subsection would do for those who googled and found HybridZ, but were wanting local thats below google's radar. that way, anyone asking "is there a regional club near me" or "we need a regional forum" can be pointed there.

no... very expensive beer

Yup, I agree with the poster, look up the definition of Catalyst in a chemical dictionary, it will tell you that a catalyst is a substance that triggers a reaction but is not itself consumed in the reaction. IIRC cats use a platinum glaze over a base substrate such as perforated stainless plate or porous ceramic bricks which maximise the surface area of the catalyst presented. That is why ZDDP was removed from SL oils to give the more modern SM series oils, the zinc compound was reacting with the catalyst in a separate reaction than the hydrocarbon/NOX reaction that was wanted.

I vote Hairdrier. If the guy doesn't care enough to take a snap of under the bonnet for you, he doesn't care enough to sell it. offer him peanuts for it, low enough that even if it's a NA, picking it up and parting it out at home is worth the time and cash you'd get for it. That way, if it is a Turbo, you're happy, if it's not, you're still ahead with a partsmobile to sell for cash to cover the purchase and pickup costs. If he screeches about the lowball offer, tell him to buck up and get snapping in the engine bay.

http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php

the problem with it from my perspective, is the graph won't load at all, where there used to be a graph with 4 or 5 lines spiking out from 0/0 to whatever top revs were, now theres a little 1mm x 1mm box blank box like you get when HTML coding says to put a border on something but the something is gone. even when the page is fully loaded and network connections display is showing a flat line with no data being transfered... still nothing. I suppose the page might not be compatible with firefox 3, I gave up and went searching through the HDD for Internet explorer, which I haven't used for nearly a year, that made it work. Cheers Grumpy just something to submit to the firefox dev team

I have a Borg Warner 0507 series box on it's way to me as a cheap gearbox, what I'm wondering, and haven't found any answers to either on hybridz or through Google on the WWW is the question of bolt patterns of the gearbox to bellhousing join. I know the T5, while sold to Tremec, started out as a BW design, and the 0507 is a BW design of fairly similiar vintage, both being used on mid 80's vehicles. What I want to know is, once I have the adaptor plates, clutches etc all set up, if at a later date something stronger that BW made, such as a T5, drops into my lap, can the gearbox body be unbolted from the bellhousing and the new T5 gearbox be bolted on without modification? Or does the Bellhousing to Box bolt pattern change between different BW boxes? I'm hoping theres a gearbox guru on here who can help

I've tried this one's sister program for the S30 and S130 http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission_300zx_tt.html An it's worked in the past, however it's not workign this time round, I've got firefox 3 now rather than the 2.xx I did then, but I still have all the plugins, up to date JAVA, Flash etc so I can't see what might be stopping the graph from displaying. Does that calculator in the link work for you? I managed to get the excel bonneville one to graph manually, so Thanks for that Grumpy it looks like 5th gear at 2500 will put me at legal open road speed 4th gear (1:1) at 3000 and 3rd gear at 4000 will do the same, so a cam with power/torque between 2000 and 4000 revs will suit a cruiser that has a bit of fun as well