kiwi303

Even better, a hot woman rubbing herself with the choc in the shower and saying yes when you offer to lick it off her

RHD isn't a problem here... EVERYTHING here is RHD Have a look at my location

whats the import costs for importing a RHD vehicle? buy one and register it

I'm a farm boy... wandering around 740 acres with a rifle killing any wild beastie that doesn't make us a profit, and looking after the animals that do I'm investigating the possibility of planting sunflowers for their oil, the growing season should match well with the climate here.

If you have the cash and want factory, Ford Australia build factory LPG only engines for their cars. maybe import a falcon engine from a wrecker there?

Tach stuck i would say. if it was electrical it would drop to 0 when car is off, and jump to it's fixed position as the car is turned on and the current hits the sender unit. a physically stuck needle will stay where it's stuck all the time. HTH

I believe the computers in the shuttles were given an upgrade some time back they're running on intel 8086 chipsets IIRC, a direct predecessor to the x86 family of chips intel still make now.

that's for a full running motor pulled from a car in working order with loom ecu and G-box? I've seen various ads for RB-26-25-30's but not any RB20's yet... I suppose everyone wants the higher power from the larger cc's more?

I've not yet done any hybriding work on any cars, just dropped in replacement ones of the same type, but a few mates have and made their own mounts etc. the most popular way amongst them is to drop the motor into place on a chain hoist, either bolt a few WIDE washers to the body and motor in various places and tack weld some soft steel bars between them, then get busy with a ruler and some cardboard. All the steel bars are to do is to stop the engine swinging with the breeze or shifting every time you knock it with the ruler. once the engines firmly in place on the new mounts, just unscrew the bolts and remove the washers with their bars. Just use the cardboard to cut out templates for the mounts and then using the templates cut out and weld your mounts. that works for dropping holden V8's into various cars that didn't originally have v8's such as the ford cortina Mk 4, I can;t really see why it ought not work for a SR or KA swap into a Z.

How much does an RB20 set you back in the US? Given they're fairly rare import engines they can't be the cheapest around.

That might be a bit hard on the eyes, I've heard nightmare tales about LaZiK surgery

Ok... I realise this is the Gen I & II CHEV board and I've settled on a Ford Cleveland as the engine I'll be building up. but my Q is a bit more general than just model specific. Of a choice between a stroked 393 N/A motor and a twin turbo (one per bank) EFI 302 motor with a moderate PSI boost setting, which is more likely to produce a comfortable forgiving ride?

My guess is: Mechanical pump that uses engine power to push the oil around, a nice smooth polished surface has less friction and lets the oil flow better and the porting does the same thing as with head porting for the air/fuel mix. This means less power needed to push more oil around, plus more oil pushed around means less chances of having something sieze from under-lubrication. You're home free two ways

Thats a point, I keep forgetting the US never got the Nissan or Holden RBXXE family sedans that litter the country here.

YIKES!!! looks a mess there. whats the head like? I'd probably grab a RB20E and switch the DET head onto that.

I'm looking at possibly doing a 2 month short course night class to get a welding cert... my current welding skills suck big time. Other than that, no school for me

CRC 5.56 is what I use, a very good penetrating oil.

I have a Van... Nissan Serena with a SR and Auto, RWD with VLSD stock from factory. it redlines at 7. I've ripped off dickheads att he lights who wanted to drag the guy in the big ol van with mummys civic.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Specialist-cars/Competition-cars/auction-177343967.htm

well when it started it was just a bit of bouncing ideas around, by the time it started to make sense, it was easier to keep it on here where others could follow the train of thought Maybe one of them has a workshop and more money than we do

if you want more power... this started as a SR20DE/T swap from a FWD, what about a Buick supercharged 3800 V6 FWD instead? anyhoo, I got to dissapear for a half hour to go check the animals and grab a beer, then it'll be bedtime once I've finished the homebrew (what else would a shadetree theory mechanic drink?) it's past midnight now.

that sounds like hollywood... Nah, never happen outside of a set stage... Chain drive one way, gear drive the other... so left or right bias still has the right driveshaft spin direction good idea

lets see... in 5 hours, we've wondered, mused, guessed, and thought our way through the theory of a FWD into AWD swap Take one front drive donor, rape it of the engine, transaxle and front hubs, and find another rear diff and side shafts from another donor RWD car. take one rear drive victim and apply front hubs from fwd donor and drop engine in rotated 90 degrees. rip the diff apart in the transaxle and fit a modified drive shaft and 1:1 gears, and make a little housing for a hacksawed VLSD. weld, pry bolt glue and otherwise fasten all bits together. Finally, ensure your life insurance is up to date and take a test drive...

yup, thats pretty common-sensical, so much so I didn't even bother to point it out looks like I guessed right about your mech skills

that make more sense of what I am thinking about? make the gear replacing the diff such as the driveshaft is 1:1 with the gearbox, and final drive reduction is in the diffs at each end of the car? the 1:1 gears could be chain type, gears, V belt... whatever needs to go to make it work and what the engineer can manage