onephatz

another option that you could do is buy and external hard drive enclosure. when my old computer went south I bought a $50 enclosure at circuit city and put my 30 gig hd in there. it plugs in with usb and works great. if all you want is the files on the drive this may be the cheapest and most convient solution. jesse

well see that's the thing. I don't know. I was using a standard 280z distributor and a msd boost timing master. well I had the timing set to what I thought would give me ~30 degrees max with ~18-20 degrees at full boost. well it ran like crap to say the least. I noticed that the more I advanced the timing the better it ran. long story short I had the distributor turned all the way advanced and no retard with the msd box. I still think the harmonic balancer pully moved a little so as to get the timing marks off. on an eddy current dyno she put down 235hp so...

oh how I wish. It's just wishful thinking

that's what happens with 18psi and WAY too much timing. you think 114 octane is gonna save ya, think again. don't worry, just leads to the next evolution of the z http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/LS7-Crate-Engine-Small-Block-17802397-Coming-Fall-of-2005-P930C0.aspx

I can feel a chunk of cyl head missing where the gasket blew(see arrow) oops

drzed is right the output shaft is larger and the non turbo ones won't fit. he is also correct about the zxt auto being much stronger. it has more clutches AND much higher line pressure than the non turbo counter parts. and yes you'll have to have the drive shaft length "fixed". jesse

that's not a car, it's a space ship!

well to tell the truth I've tried to take my turbo apart before with little success. I was looking into just upgrading the compressor side but the bolts were seized in the center section and the turbine housing. I didn't feel like twisting off any bolts(after I had most of them loosened) so I put it all back together. the turbo had a little shaft play at the time but now it's completely unuseable now(as is). think I can pick up a used one for $100? jesse

there's no difference actually but I don't want to take his car apart. no takers? jesse

my turbo just went south and I don't really feel like having it rebuilt. I'm lookin for a used stock t3 off a zx to get me back on the road. anyone have one or know were I can get one for a reasonable price? thanks jesse

30% hahaha tell'em to shove it where the sun don't shine. I was involve in an accident with my 91 maxima a year ago. I bought it back for 12%.... slimey bastards jesse

I got a speeding ticket the other day. went and talked to the prosecuting attorney and got it pleaded down from 23 over to 3 over. all I had to do is pay an extra 50 bucks and pay court costs. no points, no record. I guess it all depends on where you have to goto court. city courts can be way less up tight. my advice, go talk to the prosecuting attorney and see what your options are. just my .02 jesse

so I see this ad on autotrader.com for a g35 for $7500. I'm like no way this is right but just to be on the safe side I shoot out an email thru autotrader to the owner to see if it was a typo or what. here is what I get back. Hello, First thank you for your email regarding my car. The car is in a perfect condition, the milage is accurate, no scratches, no damages, no hidden defects.Kept it in a warm garage. My boyfriend is devastated that we have to sell it but we have to pay too much money for register it here,so we decide to sell it. My company have relations in States and I worked there for 2 years. I has the oportunity to buyit from there and bring it with me when I come back.The car was buyed from US, so it is US standards,so stay cool it´s perfect compatibile to your standards and you will don´t have to pay more duty taxes on it. And this is an impediment for me to sell it here caus,first, we have a different standards and second will be very expensive for me to register it here.I have to pay an very expensive duty taxes.The price for this car is $7,500.00 USD.The car it is still register in States.What other info would you like on it? It will be shipped from London,England and i will pay the shipping and insurance charges.I will do the arrangements for shipping from here.The original receipt and all remainded warranty information packet with enrollment number is included for you. If necessary ever I will assist you in getting warranty help; most people just dump it on you with a useless warranty. The payment will be done via secure pay which means that the third party will keep the money until you receive and inspect the car. You have 10 days to inspect the car.I will wait for your email to let me know if you are interested in knowing more details about the purchase. Best Regards Daniele so after I figure this is pretty much a scam considering the crappy english and ultra low price. so now I'm gonna do the only thing that the little guy can do... waste the scammers time. note the ad is no longer on autotrader.com. more to come jesse

musicmatch jukebox can. you can choose to record from your "wave" controller. maybe others but definatelly musicmatch. if you need an "upgrade" code lemme know w/ pm. jesse

alright here we go. I've got a '75 280z that I'm starting it's tear down and transformation. I'm looking for direction before I start so as the project progesses I can be looking for the parts I want. this car is going to be stripped down to the bare chassis, sand blasted, rust fixed, cage welded in, and then put back together as a track car. when I say track I mean 90% track 10% road. I'm only putting back that which I need to be "steet legal". all the wiring will be redone, no sound proofing ect. ect.... mind you this will proubly take me more than a year. what I'm looking at right now is help with engine and transmission decisions. I'm shooting for a hp range between 500-600hp. option #1 5.7 ls1/2, worked over(cam, intake, headers, maybe heads) maybe 400-450 n/a hp add ~150 shot of nitrous for special occasions option #2 5.3 lm7, w/ cam, intake, headers, maybe heads? add supercharger w/ ~10-14psi boost option #3 5.7 gen 1 sbc "built" aftermarket heads, forged pistons,stronger rods,ect... add supercharger w/ ~12-18psi boost supercharger will either be a twin screw or a ati procharger. several questions plage me. does weight loss due to the all alumimum block of the ls1 out weight the greater strength of the cast iron block of the 5.3 and gen1 blocks? those who race, is it better to have a constant hp level like haveing a built n/a motor or have hp tuneablity with different supercharger wheels for different tracks. can a gen 1 engine be built stronger and cheaper than working with a lm7 or ls1. transmissions: since it's gonna be a track car mileage isn't on the top of my list. but... a friend has a salvage licence and can get wrecked cars at a reasonable prices. If I were to get an f-body ls1 and t56 that maybe cheaper than say getting a wc-t5 and having it rebuilt to hold the power. how much heavier is the t56 vs a t5? all these things can be mixed or matched and I'm getting a headache with all the possablitys. (don't you wish you had these troubles ) I'm sure I'm forgetting something but that'll come later directions? comments? shrewd remarks? thanks jesse

yea a 14b is the stock turbo on 1g dsm's. they can push about 300hp~same as the stock t3 on a z. the problem is that the turbine is way too small as they came on 2L engines and will overspin.

what year do you need. make sure you know which type of vg you want. there is an early vg from 84-early 87 and 87 on. the head gaskets are different from the two types. from what I understand the newer heads can bolt on the older block and be ok but not the opposite. don't quote me on that.

rotary all the way. my dad has 3 in his shop and every one has been great. we have a 4 post drive on rack, a 2 post drive on rack(bought used, and is used to do alignments, still works great), and a "asymetical" 2 post. if your going 4 post go with one that has all the cableing/chains/hydrolic cyl. internally mounted(its much nicer getting in and out of cars). i think this is one that he has: http://www.rotarylift.com/library/post/DataStorage/SPOA10/SPOA10%20Written%20Specification.pdf jesse

http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php? sorry i'm just lazy

i've assembled several 2.2's before. the first one took me about 2 days because I wanted to make sure I did everything right. megasqurit.info has had all the info I've ever needed for assembly. when you start getting into mods msefi.com helps out alot. jesse

I used extra springs on the outside of the wastegate acuator to provide extra resistance and up the boost. 3 heavy duty springs got me to about 15psi jesse

i'm running dsm 450's req fuel is 6.8ms open time = 1.0ms voltage correct =.1 current limit =100 pwm =25.5ms what does your map look like at cruize/idle my cruise is around 42-53kpa i'm running about 55% volumictric efficent I'm running around 14.7:1 on the wide band so. if you want some pictures of my map, constants, enrichments lemme know. do some logging to see if you need to up your tps voltage threshold. mine had big drops in afr when it got a false accel signal. jesse

no, all earlier maxima(and 810's) had the L24e. I've got a few L28's and a few early vg30e's sitting at my shop but was looking for something that was a smaller displacement(better milage) but could be turbocharged and still hold up to boost. the next big consideration is an automatic that will hold up to x amount of hp coming out of a little 4. i've been organizing my extra parts and am gonna be liquidating most everything soon. I just have to figure out what I need to keep. jesse btw wiring is fine with me as long as I have a wiring diagram

ok I've got a 82 maxima as my daily driver. I'm wanting to put a little newer motor in it. maybe something with hydrolic lifters, better balancing, easier access to parts ect. I've been looking for options in the 4cyl engine area and seem to be having a hard time finding something in the 1.6-1.8L range that is rwd and that I could put a turbo on in the future. since this is my daily I want to keep the automatic slush box. the next thing is, it has to be something that I can find in a junkyard(ie: no JDM stuff). Ideas? ca18e(t)? (200sx) others? thanks jesse

honestly after looking at the pictures a few times I don't think they were going extremely fast. most cars are designed to take a front or rear crash, or even a hit from the full frontal area of a car to the side. in this case there is only the cross sectional area of the tree appling force to the side of the car. a car traveling at 60mph has alot of energy kinetic energy, this is found by 1/2MV^2. small increases in speed mean big increses in energy. since the side of the car only had a small area to absorb the energy of movement, it just split in two. I've seen alot of crazy things out on the road(I drive tow trucks for my dad). just remember kiddies buckle your saftey belts jesse