technicalninja

Copper spray will work great, It needs to be applied to both sides of the gasket in 3-4 light coats with 10 min between coats and the final coat 5 min before assembly. The grey stuff is great as well. It requires no gasket at all. The first place I ever saw the grey RTV used was on Toyota R series oil pans. On a factory seal you had to physically rip, hammer, pry, cuss, pry some more, get a bigger screw driver, and finally get the pan to break loose; 30 min after you had gotten the pan bolts off. Sort of a mess to clean up to as no debris can be left on surface as it can effect the next application. I actually bought it from the Toyota dealer at $15 a tube for years before it was available through the aftermarket. I have used the stuff on the widest variety of applications. I have never had a failure when using the grey RTV. I have never used it on a Z oil pan but have wondered how well it would work. The probem I have is that the Z oil pan has a raised rib down the center of the flange where a pan designed for RTV has depression at this same spot. The Z design applies pressure to "squeeze" the gasket where the RTV style allows a thicker section of RTV at the center to improve seal. When tightened, the Z pan will squeeze out most of the RTV leaving a fairly thin center sealing section. I bet it would work just fine even with this design. I may try this on the next Z motor I build. Sure is cheaper. Iv'e put Z pans on with Gorilla snot(weatherstrip adhesive), Pukkey (Permatex Aviation-Forma-Gasket), Copper coat spray, grease, and dry. All chemicals formed working seals and althought each has its drawbacks what you use is probably not your problem. Every Z pan that I have had off has needed each bolt hole lowered from the pan sealing surface. Years of use, and sometimes overtightening "dish" the bolt holes toward the block and this creates lower pressure sections between bolts in pan clamping force on gasket. The fix is to place pan between you and a strong work bench pinching it to the bench with your body allowing only the flange on the opposite side to hang on bench.This can mark up the "work bench" so make sure your wife won't care about what your hammering on. Place a small ball-peen hammer round knob down in a bolt hole. Strike it lightly on its front face with a larger hammer effectively re-bending the hole back to flat and maybe a little the other way. Taping a small peice of wood, carpet, etc on the face of the small hammer will keep the hammers from chipping each other; never actually scene it happen but it can and it would throw very small sharp peices if it did. Use safety goggles when doing this trick. After a couple of holes you will get the feel of how hard to hit each one and I can rebend all 31 holes in just a few min. Make sure the pan is fairly flat by placing it on a finished hard floor and checking clearances. You can take warpage out by shimming the high spots with thin plywood, masonite, extra floor tiles and using your body weight carefully "stepping" the warpage out. You can get one pretty flat with a little work. The flange stiffeners need to be used as they add strength. Obviously the areas of the pan around the sump required Nissan to design a fix. Big companies don't usually make an update to a design unless it is cheaper than their expected warrenty claims (safetey stuff not included). If Nissan was worried enough in a 36 month warrenty period to add these I'd keep them. They are usually warped up at the ends (the center of each leg hits pan first). Unless they appear damaged I leave them alone as I think the bend is intentional on Nissan's part. There are 16 long pan bolts and 15 short ones, long go with brackets. Five "blind" holes in block, 4 in front cover, 2 in main bearing cap require a correct length fastener and verification of no trash in holes. Other 20 are pass throughs and are less critical on bolt length. What ever you use the pan surface and the block flange need to be really clean and not have any oil on it. least effected by oil is grease and most effected is RTV. The RTV works very best when the surfaces are spotless ( I use alcohol and paper towels for final cleaning if possible). Doing it in the car makes it very difficult to get it properly clean. All the sealants work best if the pan is placed only one time and is held against block by helper while you lightly tighten 4 bolts and semi-lock the pan in place. I tighten from center of motor (sides) out towards ends with the first round just barely compressing gasket. I will bring up torque in three rounds then let the gasket "relax" for a couple of hours and recheck one last time. At proper torque the cork rubber (stock style and thickness) will appear slightley swelled where it come out from under pan and there will be slight (1/16-1/8") protrusions at each bolt. This works fine with all glue type adhesives but can't go this tight if you grease gasket. I don't use RTV if I have a gasket for the joint. RTV replaces the gasket. My suggestion: Try RTV if you can get the mounting faces totally clean and dry. If that is unlikely then either the Copper-Coat spray or the pukkey. The pukky is more forgiving for assemble as the CopperCoat is hard to apply evenly to both sides of gasket and it sticks to every thing it gets close to during assembly. Thought my ramblings might help Rick

Just spoke with Earnie at Konig wheels. He said he was planning on this deal lasting a year. I don't know how firm that is but he did not say it would end today as I have heard. I still went ahead and ordered my set. Only available wheel that does not require spacers is the Rewind. The 17 inchers are mostly 7 wide only which limits your tire selection some. Earnie much prefers to work by e-mail. I think he has been run ragged by all the calls. Thanks to dat240zg for bringing to to our attention

Improper vac line routing can have a serious effect on idle. What year/ fuel inject/ mods? Is #3 firing now? Does it run OK off idle? Have you driven it yet? If you applied man vac to the EGR it would destroy idle much as you described. Vac line routing on most Z intakes is very simple and easy to understand but I need to know what year. You can eliminate nearly all of the vacuum lines for testing purposes and the engine should idle fine with out them. Needed lines: FPR to manifold. TB to dist (ported vac) pretty much everthing else can be capped off at the manifold end of the lines. Look closely at the rubber boot between the TB and AFM. They can get cracked down inside the pletes and you cannot see this unless you bend and streach out the boot.

Look for bent valves from the cam mis-timing. Bring a cylinder to TDC. (piston top of bore/ cam lobes up and blow compressed into spark plug hole. have helper listen at exhaust pipe and intake. I would not pay him any more money and I would not let him touch it again either.

Start it on Berriman's B12, 2 second shot through red tube under each carb pistons after lifting them will prove if the engine is sound and ign is close. Any engine will run on B12. I recently started an old garden tiller (3 hp) that had not been run in 15 years. Removed the completely gummed up carb and shot directly into open intake. Ran it for 3 min on B12. Started instantly. I've moved cars into shops running B12 (takes two people). If your careful you can run it for a few moments by alternating spray between the two carbs. DO NOT spray full force. "Trickle" it in to the carbs. Much easier to do if you only have one throttle opening. Trying to idle a car with triples is impossible using this method SAFTEY TIP You will be spraying an extremely flammable liquid at a running engine. Take proper precautions, Fire extinguisher, and probably most important, someone watching who's not in the engine comp with you. I use the B12 test on most no-start jobs. If your no-start is fuel related the car will run.

Pretty much all chassis parts are the same dimensionally and should change over with no issues. Most 70s had a TRE shaft diameter that was smaller than 71 and up. Outer TREs are hard to find because of this and the 71 and up stuff is stronger/more avaiable. I have heard some very early cars had a rear control arm location issue that was updated although I have never seen this. Often times the early 240s had parts which were manufactored differently so their appearance is slightly different from the later parts. Early oil pans are an example- Very weird when compared to a normal pan. Your signature line says "restoration as original". Only pinheads like me would notice but I would be able to tell a "poser" from an original 70. Nissan went through some massive growth problems just after the release of the Z and parts vendors did change at the drop of a hat. If you must stay as perfectly stock as possible swap out the entire 73 chassis parts. Unbolt entire sections with-out dissembly, stick it in 70 for rolling gear and re-do the 70 stuff and reinstall later. If originality is not as big an issue use all of the 73 stuff as it maybe better build quality (3 years debugging by Nissan). I am not a stickler for originality but if your 70 is truly nice it will retain its highest value in an "as delivered form". A 70 I had (#3252) had strange front rotors (original) that had large "windows" in their hat sections. Very noticable and easy to catch if you know what to look for. It had weird shape front WB caps, Different shape on brake line mounting hardware. Little things like this are the main differences.

Most cams makers request that after initial start no idle speeds for first 15 min to help cam bed in. Don't know how much this truly effects the new cam but is a common request. Schneider, Crane, and Earson requested this in their paperwork. I believe this "rule" is more apropriate for V8 engines as round lifters tend to create a wear pattern on first start up. Most manufactors request keeping RPM above 2000 for first few minutes. This requires that the car be ready to drive at start up and cooling system be fully bled and topped up. Need to complete a retorque/check V adj after first heat cycle and also at 1000km.

Can you post the specs on the little beast? My first car was a 72 Honda 600 "Z" coupe. Have many good memories of it. First car I ever spun completely out of control "wonder what this e-brake will do on this rain slicked road?"

Found this cruising E-Bay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7969870147&category=33614 Don't know seller- just thought you might be interested

I have not seen a 17036 or the 17035 but the Electramotive cam I put in was a 290/.490 (very close to the 17036) and it did exhibit a minor drop in lower end power. Your carb choice is a little small for such a cam. The engine I put the L7 in was a 10.5 N42 flat top with 44mm triple Mikunis. It definitly had enough carburation for the cam. This engine was built with extreme attention to detail. Combustion chambers were all optimised to each cylinder/piston set to end up with exactly the same comp ratio across all cylinders. This took far more time than it was probably worth and I am not planning to go to this level again on a 10.5-1 motor. Note: a 13-1 engine requires this level of build as comformatey across the cylinders becomes more difficult to achieve the higher the compression gets. I advised my customer that he would have a lumpy idle and lower end drivability would suffer some. After completion the engine would idle rock steady at 600 rpm and although the lower rpm range was not nearly as strong as the upper end it would pull smoothly from idle in all but 5th gear. Point is-properly built even a fairly strong cam can work on the street. The L7 cam was CRITICAL on piston to valve clearance and almost needed valve reliefs. if you make a mistake on dialing with a cam like this sever engine damage becomes a factor. I rather like the 17035 specs but I still would choose the 17034 over it if it did not have the same fat asymetric profile as the 17034. I would not choose the 17036 unless higher flow carbs were fitted. you SUs will work with this cam, just not as well as you might like. Right in the middle of the cam's power band the carbs would become a limiting factor. Schnieder cams will probably say that all of their cams are asymetric (and they most likely are) but some are more asymetric than others. It would be nice if plotted profiles for their cams were available as it is hard to really see what a cam is doing with just the few numbers they publish. Increasing valve lift does have a detrimental effect on spring life and stresses the entire valve train more. It requires a more precise installation and can create issues with seal height, increased valve guide wear, and other problems . One other problem that needed to be carefully addressed with the L7 (290/.490) cam was rocker wipe pattern. This was difficult to set up and required some fitting of different thichness lash pads. Frank Honsowetz book "How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine" has a good description of checking this pattern. I use wide black magic marker to "paint" rockers for this test. The 17034 cam is much less demanding to set up for rocker wipe pattern. it should still be checked but usually will work with the lash pads they supply. Well, probably more info than you wanted, hope I did not create more questions than I answered. Rick

I have installed both grinds and find the 17034 as the better choice. What the charts don't show is the lobe profile. The 17033 has a symetrical profile (both opening and closing side of lobe are the same-or very close) the 17034 is an asymetric profile (opening side is a far sharper curve that closing side). This opens the valve more quickly and closes it more slowly than the higher lift symetrical profile. The top of the lobe is "fatter". First time I ever saw an asymetrical cam was a beautiful electromotive (Nissan Motorsports) L7. This is a proven preformance benefit and leads to a more stable valve train and higher engine speeds before valve float occures. Lobes look funny though. Both cams have to be properly dialed in as the valves do get close to the pistons on a flat top motor. Either cam will work well in your application. Both will have plenty of low end grunt and the carb choice should help low to midrange power anyway. my vote is the 17034. Rick

My guess is the valves in cyl 3 are out of adjustment slightly (not slightly broken in) and you are not getting any fuel in cyl 3. If your car is F.I. I would guess that the injector harness was not making good contact and the injector was not pulsing. You can verify that the injector is pulsing with a medium screwdriver. lay metal end on injector and put your ear on the plastic handle- If it is working you will hear click every time it fires. Real common to have to work/clean/bend inner metal contacts to make a good connection. Valves being just a little loose can increase compression drastically. Once I checked a 74 260Z's (original never worked on engine) compression before and after a valve adjustment. I am very experienced at setting valves and did a "blueprint" style adjustment. Exactly in center of range. Compression varied 20 lbs across the engine before adjustment. After adjustment compression was 174 in all cylinders-exactly. I was so shocked that I redid the test twice with my Snap-on gauges and borrowed another tech's gauges and did it again. Although his showed another reading (I've never found two comp testers that read exactly the same) all cylinders were exactly the same on the one gauge. I have since tested comp right After V/A on other heads and other brands (not limited to Nissan) and can say that valve adjustment has more effect on compression readings that any other factor (as long as the engine is basically sound). One chamber has not seen any fire in your engine- no real break-in has occured. If it's compression was not different then the rest I would be suprised. Not to worry. I would not take injectors out until having properly diagnosed cause of #3 no fire. Only after checking for spark and injector "click" would I remove injectors. The last Z I resurrected did require 6 fresh injectors as even though the all were clicking. Their patterns (fuel cone at injector tips) were all streaming (not forming a cone, forming a stream as if out of a water gun) I would not do another compression test until I had taken the engine through a few complete warmup cycles, put a few miles on it, and re-adjusted the valves very exactly. Most valve bed in will occur in the first 15 min of operation. I almost never have to re-adjust one of my engines after the second adjustment. I would not operate the engine for very long with # 3 misfiring. Hope this helps Rick

My first thought was that the Professor is going to be in as much trouble as the thief for allowing this information to be so easily stolen and copied. If he had such important data why wasn't it locked up and encripted with the strongest programs available. What is that sort of info doing on a college. He spoke of a transponder. Once activated it would allow immediate location of the laptop and the Professor would not have to make speach in front of the class. The thief would already be caught as the data is too important to wait for him to come in by himself. This is either a poor attempt to get stolen computer back or more likely an urban myth.

The rubber washer is on the tensioner shaft already. The 1/2 moon (or woodruf key) goes in the crank. There are 3 of them, 1 under crank gear, 1 under oilpump/dist drive gear, and one under harmonic balancer. When the crank is at TDC the slots for these key point straight up. It should fit into crank tightly. Normally have to tap it in with a small hammer. It needs to go in slot straight, be level, and fully tapped down or the front balancer will "strip" the key out on install. If key is loose in crank get a new one. balancer left loose wil tend to wear out key (and nose of crank if your unlucky) Oil pump drive gear (if you have removed it) goes on crank radius side first. Balancer should fit snug but still be able to install by hand (wiggle,tap with tiny hammer). Normally keys do not fall out of crank. Provide pictures of front of crank/ balancer for more advice. Fish spring out of pan. Coat hanger hook will work. Hope this helps Rick

I bet John's car had mind altering/passenger terrifying throttle responce. I believe that it would have been hard to measure the difference that a comparable ITB manifold would have made to his car. It would have increased the fabrication cost substaintially. Proper engine preparation and outfitting has a far greater effect on throttle response than intake design alone. I also agree with Pete's comments and Vizard is one of my favorite authors for performance information. Some of the ITB gains will be lost if the entry path to the system have to be worked into a street car application. (ie tight radius bends, air filters, etc) Pete's manifold (if it is used as it sits) has phenomenal entrys- they are a bit obtrusive though. Wonder what the Police will think of them? My experience with triple carbs set ups has shown a minor improvement at high end with a manifold design with totally seperate runners. The manifolds that had a connecting plenum between runners had a improved lower end, a better idle, were easier to tune and were less finicky about carb balance. For a street driven car some connection between runners is a definite plus. This feature might be less important in the case of F.I. as the manifold is not carrying an air/fuel mixture. The fabricated plenum manifold would be easier to build and requires less precise machining. Many inexpensive TBs exist. Its not hard to set up a throttle cable system and balance will not be a problem. It will provide a much stronger vacuum signal at idle. When a turbo is added to the system the ITBs therotical higher flow is no longer an issue. Total system obstrutions is the more important factor. 1 medium size throttle shaft and blade versus 6 smaller blades. The ITBs also create 6 times the leak potential and still have the throttle balance issues. Reducing the throttle shaft obstruction is important enough that the latest BMW 8 cylinder engine has NO throttle blade (wide open intake-like a diesel) and uses intake valve manipulation to throttle the engine. This decrease in intake pumping losses was worth both power and fuel economy. An easy way to fab up a ITB F.I. setup would be to take an old set of triples, Gut the carbs (sell the insides to defray costs) and mount injectors in the maniflod. only fab work would be injector mounts, fuel rails, and TPS. I currently have a Mikuni triple manifold and 3 TWM 50 mm ITBs (2 injectors per barrel) for a turbo project engine. It would sure look neat but I will probably go for a hand built intake like John's for it's simplicity and fabrication ease. Interesting thread- Hope it continues to grow. Pete - where are the tennis balls? That intake requires tennis ball "covers" Rick

Spring and small rubber washer (fits around tensioner shaft) will be in pan. You can probably fish them out after draining the oil and going in at front of pan with a hook/mechanical fingers. If your half peice looks like a little cap it is an internal part of some tensioners. It could also be a peice of broken chain rail. Please post picture of the peice

Passenger side lower connection are fuel out and fuel return. larger hose is fuel out to pump. Connections at top are for vapor return. Good luck with tank- Looks pretty bad.

You should be able to see the tensioner with a flashlight. if you can see a spring it has come out to far. will need to remove front cover to fix. I have "fished" a tensioner back into its hole with couple of long thin screwdrivers and a long mechanical fingers but it took some luck. As for loosening cam tower bolts- DON'T. Cam towers should only be tightened up with all rocker arms removed and chain off. although the towers have guide pins they will not tighten up correctly with any external loads on the cam. On bench I tighten all bolts just past finger tight starting with middle set. Then try to rotate cam by hand. Adjust cam tower position with small hammer as I slowly tighten up bolts in stages. You would be suprised at how much drag you can eliminate using this procedure. Just tighten up all bolts one time with out aliging and the cam can be difficult to turn by hand. Do it the way I suggest and the cam will feel like it is on roller bearings. I also recheck cam turning torque after I torque the head bolts as some go through the cam towers and re-adjust if needed. The hammer is used very lightly to "vibrate" the cam towers into alignment. Don't believe me- next time you have a head fully apart just stick the towers on the guide pins (no bolts) and wiggle back and forth- more play there than you thought. My 78 Nissan SM has a caution statement on page EM-7 "Never remove camshaft bearing unless you have a suitable machine for boring camshaft bearing in line. If you once remove camshaft bearings, bearing centers will come out of alignment; reconditioning is very difficult with out center borings" The SM does not list where you might get a cam with bigger bearing journals (never been available IMO). My 82 SM says it a little different " Do not remove camshaft brackets. If camshaft bracket were removed, install them by checking for a smooth rotation with the camshaft." I would not loosen the cam towers for any reason after aligning them on the bench. Normally after the tensioner has come fully out to much play exists in the chain and the gears will slip on no problem. Just before the tensioner pops out it usually cocks up slightly and binds in the housing. If your tensioner has done this you will have to apply pressure against the face of tensioner with one screw driver (or long very thin prybar) and at same time push down on top of tensioner foot with another long thin screwdriver. When the angles are right the tensioner will slide back in. Look closley at what you have at the tensioner right now. I have been lucky at getting them back in. Patients and "holding your mouth right" will pay off. Good luck

The fuel rails can have a lot of air in them which can be difficult to purg. 75 and 76 Zs ran the fuel pump circuit through the AFM (air flow meter) disconnect the boot to the airfilter and move the flap a little, you should hear the pump run. 77 and 78 Zs had a double relay set up to only allow the pump to run when the alternator was making power and the oil pressure was not zero. Disconnect alt plug (two small wire in a plastic housing-just need to pull it out of alt-no tools) and disco oil pr send unit. this will trip the relays. I gave you both methods as this changed late in 76 and your car might have either system. Fuel pumps that sit for a long time can "lock up" especially old pumps. after verifing power to pump (12 vlt tst light to non black wire at pump-power wire is green most of time) lightly rap pump with small hammer or handle end of screwdriver to jar it loose. pump is audible when it is working. get power to pump, get pump working, allow to run 2-5 min (with out trying to start car)to help clear air bubble in fuel rail. I would then spray a small amount of Berriman's B12 (or other carb cleaner berriman's seem to work best for this) into intake maniflod at vacuum line fitting for fuel pressure regulator (intake manifold side) only need a 2-3 second spray.Reconnect vac line and start engine immediatly. As long as the engine is mechanically sound and you have spark any engine will run on Berrimans. After you get it lit you can keep it running by spraying B12 (slowly and carefully- use the red tube to get it well into opening- spraying berriman's at any running car can be a fire hazard-be safe) into entry of AFM. After 15 sec of running try to let it run itself. If it starts to die add a tiny amout of B12. The lines from the injector to the rail can take as much as a minute to clear all of the air. The engine will first run poorly by itself getting progressively better as each injector clears. The earlier post about fuel run in the on position is correct for later GM cars which prime the system for 5 seconds in the initial key on position. The early Z (up to 90) did not have a prime circuit and had check valves in the output fitting of the pump to hold system pressure until the next start. Years ago Nissan sold just the fitting $ 8 which was an easy sell to the Z customer when their car did not start instantly on crank. Nissan stopped selling this part and you could only get entire fuel pumps for $200. I would not replace a pump which lost its pressure hold feature as the cars would start after 5 seconds anyway. Because of this early FI problem GM came up with the 5 sec fuel pump run at first on position. Hope this helps Rick

jjohart is correct as the added resistance of the pot is always applied to the circuit. The reason it doesn't effect a cold engine as much as a warm one is that the curve of the cts/chts (coolant temp sensor/cylinder head temp sensor) is not a linear one. Per Nissan SM (77 and 82) the resistance values are -22F=20-30k ohms 14F =7.6-10.8k ohms 50F = 3.25-4.15k ohms 68F = 2.25-2.75k ohms 122F= .74-.94k ohms 176F= .29-.36k ohms For those who are wondering the small k after the value stands for 1000. So a cold engine should have between 3000 and 10,000 ohms of resistance (depending on outside temp)while the same engine fully warmed up will show 300 ohms. Add 500 ohms to 5000 and the change is minor. Add 500 ohms to 300 and the change is much more pronounced. The added resistance does effect the fuel curve across the board.It just doesn't effect the cold mapping nearly as much as it effects the warm mapping. I agree with Bastaad525 as to the afm mod. Any enrichment mod which relies on a one time change to the curve that doesn't take into account RPM or load is a poor idea. Might work for some but count me out. The cts mod this post was about can provide a mild increase in fuel output but is best suited for N/A applications as increasing boost vastly increases airflow and the cts mod doesn't have a snowballs chance of keeping up with the fuel needs. The cts mod also doesn't add much to cold operation so on a 10.5-1 N/A you should let it warm up before hosing it. Good advice for any engine. The rrfpr with an improved fuel pump is the first step to increasing fuel for a turbo. This mod has no effect on normal driving situations and only changes fuel flow as boost increases. It is simple and reliable but does has a price tag somewhat higher that the .99 cents that I pay for my VPOT at RadioShack. Hope this helps Rick

I posted a fairly detailed explanation for this mod a while back. Use search function. Your cylinder head temp sensor (on side of cylinder head near #5 plug) takes the place of the earlier cars CTS in the thermo housing. It works on the same principles and as I remeber it has the same resistance map as the earlier sensors. Adding the adjustable POT in this circuit will allow some linear tailoring of your fuel curve. This mod only helps curve after car is fully warmed up as the resistance curve of the sensor itself is not linear. you also need a 1000 ohm VPOT not a 100K ohm as you posted. Mine ended up needing about 600 ohms (10.5/1 N/A).

Normal oversizes for Japanese pistons are .5 mm and 1.0 mm which equal .020 and .040 inches respectively. In 20+ years of import rebuilding I have never seen a set (nissan or otherwise) which is .010 inch over stock. This would be .25 mm over, maybe it was available in the past but not to my knowledge. Measure your pistons, I bet they are .020 and should met your machinist's wants.

Max preformance turbo cam has substaintially different valve event timing than max preformance N/A cam. Turbo cam requires smaller valve overlap to reduce exhaust backflow when both valves are open. Pressure in exhaust manifold is usually much higher than boost pressure in intake. (ie 10 psi boost=15 to 20 psi exhaust backpressure (before turbo). In your case the 260 Schnider cam is mild enough that it will work fine. Flattop F54 with stock P90 head and stock headgasket = 8.8/1 comp ratio. This will work as long as proper attention is paid to heat control (ie intercooling and proper compressor selection), ignition timing, and fuel enrichment. Compression can be lowered easily two ways. Increase thickness of head gasket-this can effect the squelch caricturistics and create more problems than it fixes. Better to unshroud valves and remove material in combustion chamber. Do not remove material at outer edges of combustion chamber- this can effect squelch as well. If you use a thinner head gasket or the head has ever been milled this will increase compression. Almost all L series heads have been milled at sometime in their life. Check closely. Any changes in engine output (increased power=increased flow=increased fuel needs) will require addressing fuel delievery. The stock EFI with all stock settings is limited as to how much fuel it can deliever. There are post apon post that address this. Spend some time reading these. The stock EFI brain has no idea what cam is in the motor. It has mapping for the stock engine and does not have the ability to re-learn as many of the newer F.I.s can. Your cam installed in a stock system should not create major issues as it is fairly mild anyways. Your cam, increased compression ratio, increased boost,stock turbo, stock EFI system is probably a recipe for problems. Before spending any $ on parts buy a couple turbo books- Corky Bell's book Maximum Boost is a good choice. Reading will save more than any other thing you do. Educate yourself. Good information is available. Although he is not usually associated with turbocharging, David Vizard has written many books dealing with engine preformance and his explaination of cam dynamics is one of the easiest to understand. Nitrous cams and turbo cams share many of the same needs. Hope this helps Rick

Look for a Title Service company in your area. I have used a company called Lone Star Title in Texas a couple of times and it was $75-80. These types of businesses will not help you break the law but they do know ALL of the possible loopholes. If your purchase is not a stolen car you should be able to work something out legally. One note- revinning a car is a FELONY. If one is going to commit a felony make sure the benifits outweigh the possible punishments. Most of the time you will get away with it but is it worth the fine/jail term? Even if it cost 200 having a title service help you correct your problem legally is cheap insurance. I had never thought about talking with an insurance company for help solving this kind of prob but it seems a good idea too. Hope this help Rick

I have read that the G.T.O. was the first Ferrari designed that was windtunnel tested during the design process. Some of the last G.T.Os had even more strange early Aero mods and although they are not the most desirable looking they were faster.