Pharaohabq

Gas in the oil sounds like a stuck injector to me. maybe sh0rting to ground. I bet it's running crappy and seeming way to rich, smelling like hell. I'd start by inspecting the injector plugs, then resetting the ECU.

Exactly my thoughts... it should be much cheaper to replace the tranny with one from an 82-83' ZX that to have that one repaired. it should just bolt right up, and at the same time have that Ujoint replaced.

I've also seen the linkage get bent so that it doesn't fully move far enough to actuate the latch. Are you sure your door is aligned properly? The not latching properly is a clue, may be out of alignment.

Looks pretty awesome! You guys have done a great job. Mind if I ask what the paint cost ya?

very cool, congrats on getting it almost done! it sounds awesome. How well does your hood fit? is that video with the exhaust installed? Pretty cool, I wonder how much power you'll actually end up with to the wheels? Phar

I dunno, It's different... If you cut the slits on the back of the ring closer you'd get more even light. Nifty idea though.

Got a new part worth mentioning for the HR. My engine was missing the oip pressure switch. This is a switch next to the oil filter (see picts) that sends info to the AC amp and thus the gauges. Well Nissan has listed the switch for the DE. This is wrong for the HR. it's a different switch, with just one pin in the plug rather that the 3 the DE has. So you'll need to buy the switch they list for the VQ37, it's the same switch as the HR. It's got a black plug rather than a brown one, and plugs into a plug just like the blue oil temp sensor plug. Anyway here's picts. This is the oil switch plug. The dirty hole is where the switch screws in. The switch and Beck/arnley part # 201-1773

I wonder what the spacing should be for the GTR manifold? I thought it was a direct bolt on, since the VQ38 is the same block as the VQ37..

you won't get much feed back in the members area. The Diff conversion is on his V6 powered VQ car. just another thread tho. you're right wrong section for pure diff.

you should try that Sea foam, and change the fuel filters. it might be being starved for fuel due to gum in the lines or blocked up filter. you could test by pulling the fuel line off the pump (suction side) and put it into a gas can to see if the car runs better, that would aleast elim or indicate the fuel tank from the equation.

That doesn't look bad, though make sure your passengers always wear their seatbelts, because wearing that dash would hurt...

Hey Karotta, I've been thinking about your S13 suspension. and while it looks awesome, how is the VQ going to fit in there? I know the DE is pretty tall, most of the installations I've seen hang about an inch lower than the stock crossmember. I know you've changed that with the S13 suspension, but did you measure to insure your height is still going to clear? You'd said the Hungary roads are a bit rough, then with 4 inches clearance. if the oil pan hangs down much at all you're tempting some fate... a skid plate certainly would be in order. Have you already obtained your engine?

Wow, extreme rust remediation... You know, I'm going to go out and blast all the nuts and bolts in my rear suspension, that way it'll have a couple weeks to hopefully loosen up before I rip it all apart. I'm really starting to consider just sending the whole beast out for paint before doing too much more of my installation. I'm pretty sure I've got most of the engine compartment welding done, and I'm hoping the rest of the installation will be all either underneath or bolt on. Oh well I guess I gotta do the camber plates first. Grr So much to do....

Hey that's looking pretty nice! You might want to paint that welded in cut before you install too much more back there. I'm not sure your plans for the underbody. but nice job, I'm jealous. you've got some purty toys.

Yeah I agree, Sounds like you're rich to me too. in my stock 78' running like crap I was getting 18 in town for the 3 weeks I was driving it before I tore it apart. Granted that's EFI and not built, but still I would expect 10+ at least.

I'd recommend looking for another shop... Like I said, I can't imagine there's nobody in detroit who could do a good job rebuilding an L28 Cheap. Hell if you ship it to NM, my mechanic would be happy to rebuild it. they're really not that hard to do, you could do it yourself. honest... The head it might be worth buying one already rebuilt (or at least pulled from a running car) off Ebay. Rebuilt you'd get the machine work done for you, like planing and a good valve job. The N42 head is decent for a 280NA but it might be worth sticking with what you have. The only hesitation I have about your rebuilding your own head is the cam bearings are a pain in the ass. Depend on what's wrong with your head tho, if it's just valves then those are easy. be sure to use the viton seals tho.

that's handy... I'll give you $20 bucks for it... that's a 35% gain on your investment. that's in the warren buffet profit margin range...

It's important to follow the step of changing the oil (incl filter) at 500 miles since you're likely to get slight shavings in the oil as things seat. If you don't you risk them getting past the filter and lodging somewhere important like a bearing or maybe blocking an oil sprayer to your cam shaft. A magnetic drain plug is a good invention, I don't know why it's not used in more cars. Even then just change the oil...

Sure it can be done JDM style, but they you lose some of the Z flavor. Now if someone was reproducing the JDM Euro 240Z tailights especially in crystal shades, I'm sure there would be a LOT of interrest. I certainly would be. But finding a set to take apart might not be so easy. The process they used doesn't look paritularly difficult, but it might still be cheaper to talk to Klearz and just a group price to recreat the lenses that way you wouldn't have to invest in a setup you're not going to use often. Though I can think of a few non-available 240Z parts that would be Very nice to have someone start producing...

Sounds like you got a deal. Dunno how much you paid tho, but if the motor is done well with all that extra stuff then you should be in pretty good shape. You might want to look up that chinese turbo and see what kind of ratings it's got since a cheap turbo can kill an engine pretty quickly. Keep us informed on how things go, oh and pictures please!

Well for the money I'd recommend just rebuilding. For the price of a new, you can buy the tools and a chiltons/haynes manual. You really don't need a lot of skill to rebuild an L28. Sure you'll need some parts, but the manuals are actually really good about things. You can borrow or rent a cherry picker, but it's possible to replace rings and all with the engine in the car but you won't get to replace all the seals. It's best to pull the engine and just go through it. Just label everything you disconnect, hoses/wires. You'll know your engine really well and you'll be able to say, "Yeah I built that". There's nothing like rebuilding an engine, putting it back in and turning the key to hear the VROOM on the first go. If you swap in an L28, get one from an 82-83 280ZX. But if you're doing the swap, why not think about going with a Turbo L28. Granted it might be beyond your skill level, but we all had to learn somewhere. 90% of us on here are weekend garage mechanics with no formal training. The Turbo L28 is mostly just bolt in, the harder part is a few changed to the exhaust and intake routing, not to mention an intercooler if you prefer. If you go with a V8, Definitely you should read all you can about a swap, (in the V8 forum on here) The engine may be cheaper to get, but the swap is a lot more work. I would definitely recommend BUYING the mounting kit from somewhere like Mckinney Motorsports. it takes a lot of the physical aspect of putting the engine in place out of the equation. It still leaves the wiring and such but that's relatively easy in comparison to trying to space out your own mounts and get things centered and situated. Not to mention it removes the need to know how to WELD. All they said about an online motor is true, unless it says it's been rebuilt, then you'll need to assume it needs to be rebuilt. Shipping won't be cheap, so try to avoid that. The best way is to find an intact RUNNING donor car. wreaked is fine so long as you can hear the motor run. This way you can get the engine/tranny along with any other misc parts that you might need. A lot of online motors are missing accessories like Alternators or starters which can ramp up the cost by hundreds depending on what's missing, not to mention finding the bolts to mount things too. Sure you can have a ship do all the work for you, but that's going to cost a bit too since mechanics don't work free. (least w/o a lot of beer) I would recommend you look up any local Z clubs and see who they might recommend for a rebuild if you're still afraid to do it yourself. I could not imagine nobody in Chicago would touch a L28, they're simple compared to a modern V8.

Your Z31 CV's, how many bolts are they? From what year Z31? Did you have to have them at all resized to fit? Which flange adapters are you using?

There was a group buy a while back having to do with this. I got a set of tinted clear. the site that did them for us was Klearz.com. Datsun lenses It wasn't cheap but they look pretty awesome. you might go check them out, they may still have the moulds. Phar

Yeah, for that $ I'd say go witht he L28ET swap and Megasquirt. The stock brakes are definitely good enough for daily driver type action, even with the L28ET. The 5 lug conversion is an issue, but really for $1500 you gcould probably do all three, Megasquirt, Turbo and toyota brake upgrade. (wilwoods are nice, but overkill) so it's possible, cept for replacing the wheels. The Z32 brake conversion has been done, and is noted in the brakes section, but it takes some fabrication and I don't think anything but 16"+ wheels will fit, not to mention the offset issue. I'm not sure if the Toyota brake swap will work with yout starion/explorer hub combo, but you'd be able to use the Z31 5 lug rotors. That part would have to be mocked up to see. $800 is not bad, maybe a little high in Cali for a L28et. Maybe put a WANTED ad up on craigslist. You want to get it locally, and hopefully hear it run before pulling it. Read up on the swap, it's pretty straightforward. It's a lot easier to run one on Megasquirt+spark than to get the stock electrics to work, but that's a matter of preference. One thing though, This is your daily driver, you can expect to be down a week or so on the swap unless you've got buddies to help you out. Ask your local Z club, I'm sure there's experienced members that would help. Lastly make sure you've got everything, and planned out, before you take your car out of service. There's nothing more frustrating than to be in the middle of something, then finding you're missing a part.