Pharaohabq
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Everything posted by Pharaohabq
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Hmm your bolt clearance issues could be solved by using an adjustable bracket similar to the Z32 bracket. Screw type. Also aluminum to save weight. How'd the Pully work out?
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I I reviewed the auction... He's got a buy it now of $3000, I really don't see it being worth quite that much, though the interior does look like it's in really good shape. I can't tell if the Dash is restored (big +) or just a dash cap(big -) the engine looks original, cept for the carbs. but he said it's a crate, which is likely not accurate, it's much more likely a swap from a 77-83 with the EFI removed. Where it was hit, isn't the easiest area to repair, but it might be able to be pulled out with vacuum or more likely a body puller. the holes et all would then need to be filled. I'm not sure if that's rust under the paint in that area. Could be pain. Blue is not the original color (Silver per the eng compartment) Is that rust at the top of the rear hatch? If so I'd really be looking closer, since that area usually rusts after things like floorpans, hatch base, spare tirewell, rear wheel arches, front frame reenforcement. unibody frame... Aside from that, I'll reiterate the interior does look really good (but look under the carpet, and especially look under those seat covers. You are in Cali, and tho $3K may not be much to you, I believe it may be a little much for this car, if not close, but on the East coast w/ that dent fixed, it could easily be a $5K car. But I'm used to Southwest prices. I paid 300 (Rust free 280Z), and 700 (70' Series I) for my last 2 S30's, in non running condition. But their interiors aren't as nice. In the end it's your Money, but don't just limit yourself to Calif or LA cars. A car hauler will charge 500-600 or so to haul a car from NY to LA. Cheaper if you can deal directly with the trucker. (call truck stops) Phar
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77 280Z help needed!
Pharaohabq replied to RejectedMaterial's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Hey there Rejected.... Your answers: 1.: Yes... it's pretty much a straight swap, but you'll need the flywheel and clutch as well. If the engine in the 82' works well you can swap the whole engine over, Especially if you've got the F54/P90(a) engine head combo, they're much better for turbo application. The 82/83 5sp tranny's are better that the 79-81'. Thought for Turbo, you may need to go with Megasquirt, since moving the ZX harness over might be a pain. 2.: Yes they're R200. R200 is decently stout. really you won't need much more than that. The Diff forums are here: Drivelines 3.: It's cheaper to just swap in the ET engine than to turbo a L28, since the ET has stronger internals. This is indeed heavilly covered in stickies and such on this site. You said thank you, so no hazing from me, but the search is your friend. Phar -
I assume this is an S30 since you posted in this forum. Rich like that could be the thermotyme cold injector is pomping fuel in. You can unplug that. More likely your AFM is stuck. Just pull off the hose and reach in there and move the flap up and down a few times. then restart the car and see how it acts. if it's better, then you'll need to clean up the AFM. I know there's a posts on here all about the AFM so I'm not going to explain how to do it. Try that and let us know what it does... Phar
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Sadly I had to watch it again last night, (my wife said, "no you watch your shows, you never get to, here I'll put it on for you." Gimmie the controller... no...) So watched it, and they cut up 66' mustangs. The challengers actually won. Deservatively so too. The All star pros made their car into a dragster looking nova car that looked more like it should have been in a tractor pull. the challengers did a really nice job with their paint (though I don't care for the texan thing) The made the car decent and unobtrusive. that won it for them. It's pretty obvious the show is tailored tward people who don't know diddly about cars. But at least this time they didn't hack the hell out of the cars making them into anything that on top of not being legal to drive, would actually retain value. 20 hours though to figure you had to cut down an air filter... Guh. a intake tube and an airbox would have solved the issue quick. Oh and they were so worried that a cutting blade would make too much heat on the back side of the hood to mess up the paint... drama drama drama...
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Wow, Oddmanout, that's pretty cool. I'm glad you're getting it all back together. you didn't say how it was running since the rebuild. I hope it goes well. What did you ever end up doing about your floorpans? I remember you were going to glass them at one point, but now you've got the welder... Pretty cool job in anycase. Oh, I also missed on if you put in the 2nd layer of sound deadening? Phar
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Okay, I've been doing a little more work, after I pulled the engine, I decided I needed to clear out more of the stock engine compartment so I could have more room to work out the exhaust. I removed the stock wiring harness (I'm not yet sure if I'm going to splice into it, or just use only the 350Z harnesses.) I pulled loose about everything I could in the engine compartment, and sanded down the frame rails so I'd have a surface I can weld to. I'm going to wrap the rails in 3/16ths angle steel for reenforcement. My mounts will start 12" from the firewall, making the actual mounting pins to the engine at 13.5" from the firewall. This pulls the HR engine up tight against the firewall. (I'm having to change the Brake vacuum fitting to a 90 degree angle to fit past the hood latch. Pic later) I also Modded the Tranny tunnel for a little better fit. Before After (The upper edges of the wide tail of the Tranny needs the extra room. I left the lower part to mount exhaust brackets to. Passenger side cleared out, Just the harness through the firewall remaining. Sanded for welding in re-enforcement. Before mount removal. 13.5" to mount pin, 2.75" from rail. -15 deg slant. (little surface rust, cleaned up with wire wheel.) Any questions, Let me know Phar
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Ahh, I was wondering about that. I just got a 350Z diff I was going to put in. the mounting points look the same as the R230. I'll likely be building my own brackets anyway. I'll certainly be interrested to see how yours goes together.
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Yeah, you can use the Silicone Gasket stuff, but besure to use the right kind rated for oil, The Grey stuff, works well.
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Pzary3233's 280z Build Thread
Pharaohabq replied to Pzary3233's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Someone else's problem... I hope you'll still get another Z, that maybe doesn't take so much tinkering. -
Should I keep this shell? Too much rust damage?
Pharaohabq replied to zeeboost's topic in Body Kits & Paint
As the very least you should talk to the guy, Cite the fact that he's responsible for it regardless of if it was stolen or not. No police report was ever filed, (I'd bet you can find out the field where he found (stored) it on Google earth to show it'd just been sitting.) Ask him to pay for the repairs/painting since he owes you that much anyway. It's his fault it's so much worse than it was. If he agrees, write it out and have him sign it. that's your ammunition for court. Getting an estimate from a body shop is your next step. -
I'd think $200 plus shipping would be a decent price, since just replacing OEM is half that with junkyard parts. I already bought the clear 280Z tailights so I'm set. Though these look pretty cool!
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Wow man, that looks like a lot of work. I keep thinking maybe I could do this kind of job myself too, but then I see an experience like you just went through and I start thinking that a professional might do a better job. I mean there's a reason it's so expensive to have it done right. You went through 19 Months of heck to get a decent finish. If I put away 100 bucks a month for 19 months I could get a decent finish as well, and not have to do the work. I applaud you though, it's always good to see a project finish. We'll see where I am when I get to the body/painting portion of my cars. How much did the total job end up costing you? Phar
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Hey Tommy, I'd suggest you look into the EFI. If you go a different route, you're going to spend a TON more money to get it running. The easiest way is just to find an L28ET swap and drop it into place. The power is about as best as you can get with an L28, so unless you're made of $, then just stick with what's proven.
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Ooh Consider those Speedbleeder valves. They work fairly well, not perfectly, but pretty well for bleeding a system of air. Especially if it's just your doing the work. They can save a ton of work. Phar
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I watched a few min of last nights episode, 78' caddie's they were farking up.. I think the competition is rigged. In the show the judges liked the competition's (blue teams) car better, but still gave the win to the All stars - Red team (then touting how much better everything was that they said sucked earlier on the red teams car). It's wasted space TV. Wasted Time, Hopefully it'll get cancelled shortly. I can't say I cared about the caddies as much as the 240Z's but they cut them up just as much. A much better show I also saw last night was, something like Junker to Gems, or something, where they find a old beater (in this case a 64' fairlane) and fix it up decently, while actually showing how many $1000's they're spending and how many man hours. They then try to sell the car at classic auction to make $. ( last nights was a $700 car, +almost $40K in repairs w/ 300 hours, sold for $68K = +~25K profit). Will they ever do a Z, much less a 240? Highly unlikely, though it would be nice to see one of these shows give some love to the Datsun.
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Super Rare Distributor Cap?
Pharaohabq replied to upbeatppl's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Pretty cool looking cap. If I had it, it might be fun to hook up some LED's w/ big resistors or inductive pickups inside, just for the flashy light idea.. -
Happy B-day man... Search on here about clutch push rods. I seem to remember something about that issue. I know the brakes have the reaction disk, but a short pushrod too sounds familiar. I dunno if you can just unscrew it out a bit, or if you'd have to replace it to a more modern one. There also might be a Pedal travel adjustment. When you put in the Clutch master, was it bench bled first? You might have air bubbles causing it not to work quite right. Phar
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On this same topic, Will a 91 Z32 steering wheel fit a 78' steering shaft? How about a 07 Z34 steering shaft? Phar
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Running Issues, Running Lean, etc
Pharaohabq replied to DuoWing's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
I'm not real certain about this, but to me is really seems like you've got a bad vacuum leak. the running lean and enriching when you spray brake parts cleaner (Bad stuff to burn btw, some of them give off super poisonous benzine when burned) Separately, did you change the fuel pump when you swapped the engine? is it possible you don't have high enough fuel pressure? -
Here's a better pict of the crossmember after primering, that shows the cutout for the oil filter much better. Primered crossmember oil filter cut - VQ35HR I also pulled the engine (Again) to this time cut out a little more of the stock tranny mounts. I'm about 1/4 in too tight right where those mounts are. So I've got to remove more material, then hammer the tunnel out about 1/4 inch on each side so that the tranny will clear all the way up into the tunnel. In the VQ35DE installs, this isn't a problem, since you can't push the engine far enough back for the tranny to be tight enough to hit the original mounts because the intake hits the firewall. My shifter, even with Austin's bracket, is still 2-3" farther back from stock. I still have my stock hood latch and haven't had to mod the firewall at all yet. (will need to make a cut for the harness to fit through later.) Phar
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Hehe I had those on my Jeep till someone stole them. What I would like are a set of 16"x9.5 Panasports that would fit the S30's. I'm sure they made them at some point, but I've never seen them. The Watanabis are awesome, but too expensive. Aside from that I would love to have electrically tinted windows. Pie in the sky guys.
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588 votes so far. I'm the first mention of a VQ35 engine in this thread. Yeah I know I'm not the first to complete it, but I'm hoping to beat Mark as to the first VQ35HR installation. Needless to say I voted Other as the VQ's were new at the time this thread started, and the HR's weren't even created yet. If I had a lot more cash I would have completed things already. Phar
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I assume you HAVE talked to the company and stated why they are unusable. A lot of companies would be willing to redo their work rather than risk their reputations. Trying to work it out directly is often cheapest. Keep a record of the calls, Record them if possible. Send them registered letters, and keep copies of the letters as well as the postal reciepts. Then once you've established you're not going to get anything from them, that's when you hire a local Attorney, naming both the company and the people who run it, as well as all their employees in a suit to recover your $ and attorny fees. Often pressure like that will get results. Separately you may need a Private Investigator to help gather information, such as assets and names. It won't be cheap, but you can hopefully recover costs in court. Though getting the judgement is one thing, getting them to pay is another. Oh, you'd need written statement from reputable builders stating why the pistons are defective specifically as well. Phar