Pharaohabq

Okay, so going from, 1.5 rack side to 1.25 outside Tie rod side, would the same inner tie rods work? I'd heard that Mazda Miata racks might work. got any specs on those?

New linkage looks good. Pretty cool doing it w/ no cable. I guess that's one more bug worked out. Yah, I guess a longer hex tube to the middle would work better, but I think what you've got is fine, especially if there's no slop in the linkage. I could probably send you $20 via paypal, if you wanted to do more testing. I ain't got much, but this is an awesome project. Phar

Even better deal on the Engine there. Can't beat free... Free car, free engine, you just can't get better deals than that, (well Unless they were in better condition ) Nice work there Justin, I guess you'll have to use your own bondo unless you're really good at straightening things w/ a torch. just remember multiple thin layers to build it up. no more than 1/8th in thick at a time, or you might get cracking. I wouldn't worry so much about that, though, It's those fred flintstone floors you're going to need to look into. Some Sites that sell replacement body parts are: http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html http://www.thezstore.com/ http://www.zparts.com/home.html almost forgot, www.blackdragonauto.com too. You'd have to ask if any of them have floor buckets though. it might be just as easy to make your own a few people have done it. As for the seat support, you need to decide what seats you're going to use first, then look on Ebay for the supports/seats and go from there. There's a sticky on here about what seats fit too, so look for that. Oh and I was looking for dual mirrors for my 280z, and I couldn't find the passenger side cheaply, but I did find out that a set of later Miata mirrors can be made to fit and actually match the car very well, you can hardly tell they're not OEM... Phar

Thanks, yeah I'll look at pulling my dash to install my cover too. I was going to wrap mine lightly with bungee cords while the glue dries. I figured that would stick in it place pretty well. The Blue is nice, Sucks about the ditch. Guess it happens, Did insurance help with that, or were you on your own there? Phar

Hey, lime green, sounds good, if that's what you like it's your car, you're the one spending the $ on it.... Be sure to post us some pictures when it's done... or even better in process. I guess I should go hunt down a stickie on painting your Z... Phar

Hey Derek, Yeah, glad to hear it's still running well after 500 miles. I was worried about the heat shield, but I guess you got that all worked out. You forgot Req #4, You're happy with it. 120HP on a tired engine is pretty good, I know mines currently a lot lower than that. When I can get mine started it smokes up the place a bit. that's the main reason I'm going for a swap rather than rebuild. If I could afford your horns I'd be all over rebuilding my L28. But I'd wager I'm poorer than you these days. I'm certainly keeping you in mind though if it turns out I need anything fabricated. Once I pull my engine, I might have it sold, but if not I'll have a cheap candidate for you for rebuild. One thought I had on your production versions of the manifolds. you might look at some other I6's like the AMC 232/258 and the GM 4.0 Jeep engines among others like early chevys or fords and get their bolt patterns/spacing and see how possible it would be to swap these to other engines. that way you'd expand your base and maybe sell a few more. Perhaps even make it a 4pc set separating cyl 1 and 6 for width. I dunno, without measuring, I guess that might be difficult. Phar

I was actually thinking of instead of modifying like Austin did on his 240Z (link above) to keep the rack in the same position, but move the crossmember to the front of the rack, flip it backward so the mounts are facing the engine, but the rack would basically be in the same location. Okay, so the Subi rack ~99' or 2000 S80 inners and trimmed ZX outters is pretty much what's needed for a bolt-on Power steering then right? no wait, you said the Subi rack would need to be trimmed too??

Yeah, it's already had a color change so go with whatever color you like best. it's your car and your $$$$ to paint it, so have fun and do what you like rather than worry about the masses. The only time color matters is if you're putting your car into a concours show, where ANY non OEM part will matter. Someone on here got marked off for a GE headlight once. But ANY other application, you just want to do what makes you happy and preserves your baby... Phar

Z33 = 350z Yeah okay so no direct bolt on version yet. the S80 inners have the wrong thread patern? I thought someone said they'd fit the ZX arms, if the arms were shortened. These S70 inners you're talking about have the correct thread width for the ZX outters? I don't want to take apart a rack to put it on a lathe, though I can cut one with an andle grinder and thread it with a tap and die. so shortening is wouldn't be pretty, but I could do it. What year Subu rack should I be looking for? If say I was going to do a VQ conversion Could I move the cross member forward without a lot of issues? Phar

ick! thanks uncle jesse for the picts. Tell the duke boys hi for me and especially daisy.... working with the CAS on a 360 degree deal like that really looks like it'd be a pain to adapt to an L engine. what does the CAS signalling look like in a L28ET engine? I doubt we'd be able to adapt the Quest Cas distributor to the L28. very easilly... yeah looking at the tone wheel from a quest would answer a lot of questions, I looked too n couldn't fine a frywheel picture. maybe we can get the dealer fo fax us a page on it Phar

Okay, So I read this, and is there a simple bolt on solution? The Subi rack, Volvo s80 inners, and ZXT ends right? but with the S80 inners you have to modify the rack, correct? I'd like a solution with as little modification as possible, also, has anyone looked at the Z33 racks? Phar

Hmm okay, But doesn't the earlier Maxima's say 2002 or 2003 not use VVT? I'd heard that, since I know people swap maxima heads to their VQ30's so they don't have to deal w/ VVT, though I don't know of those are distributorless or not. If the VVT isn't connected, will the ECU throw a CEL? Maybe we should look at how the maxima guys get around that. If you're planning on using the CAS and CPS on an 81 L28, then you'll need to figure how best to make it match the Quest flywheel. Have you looked up the flywheel online to try to find a picture? I know my Vq35 flywheel has a completely different timing pattern. have you compared the boltparrtens and size of the Quest flywheel and the L28et? if it could be made to fit, it would solve a lot of issues.

Nice job! That'll be a good addition to the Z. too bad it's not Fuel injected, though you may be able to find different heads and such to do that, but hey it runs and it's cheap. Look through the V8 forums here to read the stickies on how much you're going to need to modify the frame to prevent twisting. there's a ton of info on V8 swaps. and things to look for and to keep in mind. You may be able to trade the tranny to a shop for a working one + $100 bucks or so. unless you want to do that repair yourself. Phar

Okay, so you're going to use an ECU+ wiring from a Quest, right? So pretty much we need to see the timing signals from a Quest to figure out what you'll need from the CPS and CAS. Both being 6 cyl engines, it stands to reason we should be able to work it out. Basically duplicating the signals from each. If you go a little newer you can use NDIS and do away with the distributor. It would then be fully timed off from the CPS. The difference beteen a V6 and an I6 is negligable in that the cylinders all fire in an order once per rotation. so you'd need to verify the firing order on the Quest and swap cylinders for the order in the L28. The VSS will be harder to figure, though you may be able to swap it for a GM VSS. Timing off the CPS can be done by modifying or bolting a plate to the Harmonic dampener. You could also see if the dealer will run you off a couple pages on the Quest timing signals out of their Service manual. Separately you can DL the FSM for all the years of the Z cars and see what works there. phar.

ooh, I think you're being a little misled. It's not the teeth on the ring gear. there's a timing ring that's usually around the perimeter of the flywheel. The number of teeth vary, but usually aren't more than 36. It would be nice to have that kind of diagnostic equipment. it's too bad about the job. there ARE other jobs out there, just likely not the same type. anyhow it's the project we're talking about. There's a ton of OBD-II information on the net. Phar

Yeah, GM counts the teeth on the flywheel, but theres kits to swap the CPS to the front of the crank on the harmonic balancer. I did this on my Jeep, www.projectjeep.com There's no reason you shouldn't be able to set something similar up on an L28 engine. Again Derek, here on Hybridz, already made a Harmonic balancer adapter for EDIS / NDIS, it should be as easy as modifying the tabs on a wheel to match the Nissan pattern on the flywheel. The CAS is what I was worried about, but if the Z31 distributor, or the tone wheel can be made to work on a L28, then you won't have any trouble. I'm not entirely clear on what's holding you up? the CAS or the CPS? Phar

So a bad fusible link can make your battery go dead? My new yellowtop optima was dead from one week to the next. could never figure where the leak was. phar.

Heh, Well #230 might need a little work. uhm... lets see: Fender Door Door guts Lower door opening rocker in front or rear tire frame straightening. Windshield & trim Dash cowl Driverside access panel. That's it for starters. If he finds a good donor 240Z he could knock most of that out. It's still #230 so it's worth it to the right person. it doesn't look like fun to repair, but if you can weld it's not really that bad. kinda looks like it "cuddled" with a tree ot some other large immobile object. Yeah I like the early 240z hatch on the white one. ports is good.. Phar

okay it took me 2 min to upload these picts of Hutches car. you really need to learn to use photobucket. Looks like somone already mucked it up w/ a sunroof. Sad story, but hey, mod the hell outta it. it's already been cut up. other than that it looks really solid. I love white on a 240Z

you can send then to NMZCC1@gmail.com and I'll post them for you. but you really should learn to use photobucket. it's super easy. Phar

Hmm. Okay, I was hoping I'd be able to mount my VQ a little more forward than you guys did. I know that crossmember is going to be trouble. I was thinking I might be able to run some box tubing under the steering rack and bolt a plate to the frame rails in front of all that for stability. I'm thinking at that I should be able to move the engine forward almost to the steering rack. I don't know how much more space that would give. I might need to like you said move the Cat(s) farther down the line. I've been kicking around the idea of putting in a miata power steering rack and mounting it lower below the rails to try to add space in front of the engine and allow it to be mounted slightly more forward in the compartment. It's just that steering crossmember that is the big headache right? Another option may be to mount some aftermarket Ebay cats on each downpipe, but I think you're right, I'm going to be cutting my exhaust manifolds. thanks. Phar

yeah the mounts are different, the pathfinder mounts sit the engine higher than the Z mounts. they bolt on so they're easy to change. You might also look at maxima mounts, they're similar to the Z, but the rear is pretty different. I dunno about G35..

Okay, so I found a 6sp that will fit the HR, that was a task, since there's a change in the bell housing for 07+. I'm looking for a stock shifter for it though. I'm also looking for an ECU (07-08HR) I got the alt, AC pump and stock mounts. so the pile keeps getting bigger. I've got a line on the cats and I want one of austin's relocators. I'm going to have to get on this project soon or I'll run out of space in the garage to store the parts. That or I'll get to talk my wife into letting me build a larger workshop hehe.. riiiight. not likely. I have to finish the bathroom remodel before she'll let me build a workshop I'm sure. phar

Hmm good to know I'm going to have some noise issues. Austin, can you post a pict of your new modified muffler, in place. I'm having trouble picturing where you said you're puting it. doesn't the driveshaft hit it? Have you guys had any heat issues on longer rides? I was planning on installing my VQ with stock cats, a Y, then a long pipe back to a single large muffler. I like quiet, I hope We can find a solution. Phar

You should be able to use those pistons, just you'll need to be certain the ring clearace in the lands, if it's too wide then the ring will leak and you'll get smoke/bad compression. You've spent the money cleaning the engine up, you should probably just replace the pistons. While it's all apart like this, if you're thinking of turbo'ing the engine, then you should drop the $ and put in the forged rods and pistons. You'll then be able to run a little higher boost and vroom. Phar