lgoodson@pacbell.net

I discovered that to get the car into reverse takes a lot of pressure on the shift lever . I mean it takes 2 hands and most of my strength. Just got the car running so I am not sure how it should feel but I think there is a problem. I am using a B&M ripper shifter. I believe that at first, the reverse function worked normally but I didn't use it much so I don't know. Could the lockout solenoid be causing the problem

Ya I am kind of leaning toward 2 1/2" head pipes and at the Y pipe go to a 3" with a Magnaflow. But I am reading on this site about the need to install a couple of bullet muflers before the Y to ward off any "droning" that would make the car un-drivable. Any ideas here

I have this 93 LT1 running now but I need the exhaust. It's at this moment a stock 300hp engine but I may add a cam and maybe some head work so how much pipe should I use 2 1/2" or 3" single exhaust or what? I am being quoted $500 to $700 minimum. Seems a little pricy Thanks for any advise. Larry

Thanks everyone. The Vats have been removed but it was the fuel pump relay. Brand new too. I noticed that the fuel pump was not coming on when I turned the key on so I had to trouble shoot that and found that the relay was bad, Replace it and the car fire right up and runs fine. I thought that it was fuel starvation. Thats what it was acting like and sure enough. Thanks for the help. If I hadn't figured it out on my own you all would have gotten me going.

I know everyone has been through this before and if you don't know about the fuel injection it can be a head scratcher. I started the engine and it started right up but it wouldn't stay running. I had to continually pump the pedal to keep it going, After I did that for a few minutes then it stayed running by itself. It acted like it was starving for fuel. There is no Cold start valve like on the 280Z so what could be the problem. At this point the Air temp sensor and the O2 sensors are not hooked up. No exhaust and intake air installed yet. Could this be the problem? Any Ideas Larry

Jody, Sorry to hear about the blow up. I am sure you'll figure out what happend and what is needed to get it back together. I know you raced the car and that does take it's toll. Good luck with the rebuild. Larry

Harbor Freight. Looks pretty close to the Eastwood version but you have to look close with Harbor Freight and sometimes not even too close. Good leed though. Thanks

I can tell you that in a 71Z, lt1 and t56 if you move the engine foreward you will not clear the steering shaft. I am using Sanderson headers and with the engine set all the way back I clear the streering shaft by 1/8", But you will need to clearance the tunnel on the right side to clear the bellhousing, The JTR kit moves the enguine over and back so it's tight.

Treading, Where did you go to find a roller to rent? What type of store or service?

I spend a lot of time on Craigslist. California, Arizona, Oregon, Seattle, Dallas. I see a lot of them $300 up. Right now I know if one that is a 383 with cam and the whole works with 500 miles on it for $1500 in California ofcourse, so they're out there.

Just an update. I went to buy the belt #6K615. At kragen they gave me belt with the # 6PK1560 with their stock number 4060615. The belt fits although it's tight. With the tensioner fully depressed I could barely get it on. Once on, I let off the tensioner and it released a 1/4" to 1/2". That's it. I hope that it's not too tight, Don't know how to tell if it is or not. I was told the length is the 615, maybe metrics. There is no inches so measuring my system wouldn't help.

Deja, Got the pulley today and as you said I had to drill and tap the bottom hole. But after I put the three pulleys on(ac delete,PS delete and stock tensioner) I noticed that they do not line up exactly. Putting a straight edge on them, they vary 1/8" to 3/16". Did you find this to be the case also and if so will the belt stay on? Thanks Larry

Looking for a ectctronic speedo 4 1/2" I believe to fit in the dash of a 240Z Also looking for a 280Z Tach, 75 to 77 or 78. Needs to fit in the dash of a 240Z

deja, Thanks for the link. They have the needed pulley and bracket and have sent it top me I think. $46. We'll see when it gets her. Thanks for the help.

Greg, I don't yet have any pics. I have trial fit the hoses but don't have them on at this point. The hoses that I gave part numbers for will work as I described. The heater hoses are being installed per the factory specs. In the input hose I and making a flow restrictor reducing the fow to 1/4" to reduce the pressure on the heater core. On the output side I an making a air bleeder valve to remove air pockets in the system. The head vent line I routed under the TB and to the top radiator hose using 3/8" fuel line. You would need to get a 1 1/4" tee with a 3/8" hose barb from JTR ($26) You don't need the 5/8" for the oil cooler. Actually if you have a straight 1 1/4" coupler, take it to a radiator shop and have them braise on a NPT fitting and then you can screw in a 3/8" barb, I used a 90 degree angled one aiming back to where I have the vent line coming out to keep it clean. I should be able to take some pic in a week or two. Getting close to starting this engine up. It's wired and plumbed for gas and soon for water. I found a place today where I can get a PS delete pulley and bracket. I've got the Delta Current fan controller wired in and installed. If you look at my engine compartment, you won't see on bare wires. Every thing is in looms. So I am about ready to go. The West Coast nationals, a big Z show in Orange Ca, is comming up on 4/24. Trying to get it ready by then. Not sure I'm going to make it. I'm trying. Larry

Greg. I just picked up today a special tee for the steam vent and the oil cooler. The cooler requires a 1 1/4" b y 5/8" tee which I bought from JTR then I had another fitting welded by my radiator shop to accept a 3/8" hose barb for the strea vent which go's on the top left radiator hose. It's hot water and you want it to cool before going back into the engine and you want the air to exit through the radiator vent pipe. Mike at JTR says also the use the upper hose. For the vent hose, I used a 3/8" non fuel injection hose an ran it under the TB and out along side the radiator hose and connected it to the tee. Slick But even slicker is how I connected it all together Gates makes some heat shrink clamps that you can use instead of the regular clamps. They go on easy and look barely noticable and you probably wouldn't see them if you painted them flat black to match the hose. I believe they are called PowerGrip clamps. Buy them a NAPA. I just reread my last post so I guess you know about this little secret.

Thanks for all the input but as it turns out I didn't have the power steering pully yet. What was in the box of parts I got with the car was a tensioner pully. At this point I have a a/c delete pully, and a tensioner pully installed on the car. I have another tensioner pully in the box. The a/c delete is the only one that is not stock for the engine. The tensioner is an older, dirty part. What pullys and belts do I need to make this thing run and where do I get them. If I Just ran a belt now, I think that the return to the crank would conflict at the tensioner. Do I need to find a PS delete pully?

Looking for a speedometer that will fit in the dash of a 71Z and work with the computer signal of a 93 LT1. Hopefully it will look similar but white would be ok as I would then convert all my gages to white face. Thanks Larry

Now I need some help before I go back to NAPA, Does any one have the part numbers for the serpentine belt for a LT1. I have deleted the air and power steering and have replaced them with the delete pulleys I think. Not sure as I didn't actually do the work. But I have new pulleys and a belt tensioner pully or two but what size belt. Would a stock belt work? The accessories are located on the right side ( passenger). Thanks for any help Larry

Just to let everyone know what I have figured out for radiator hoses after a lot of hours at NAPA with the belt & hose book in hand. The store I went to must have at least 500 hoses hanging on pegs. Part number 8216 for the top hose and part number 7359 for the bottom hose. Both will require one 1 1/4" reducer available from NAPA or JTR but the hoses fit pretty well, not perfect but GOOD. The top hose is a little bit of a stretch but it fits, With the torque of the engine it will loosen not tighten so it should be fine. No cutting or splicing needed. But if you do want to cut and splice they have a "heat Shrink" connection product that will elimimnate the Hose Clamps for a much cleaner look. This should save someone a lot of headaches. Larry

Ditto

I decided against the 24V test. I also discovered that if I put my ear real close the the injectors I can hear them clicking. I was use to the sound that my 280Z injectors made years ago when I tested them. Used a listening device ( long screw drive) and could hear all of them working. Some better than others. A little tapping and they started working better.

Grumpyvette. I was trying to check for stuck injectors by applying 12 volts. This worked on my 280Z injectors. They would click when the 12V was applied. I had one that was stuck but the 12V cleared it up. Shouldn't these GM injectors work the same. There is no computer involved, The injectors are unplugged. Just applying the 12V. The solenoid should work I would think. Larry

I am afraid that I might need some fuel injectors for my LT1 (24lb). Mine seem to be stuck. All eight. Any one have some for sale? Larry

I have this LT1 (93) and in preparation for starting it I checked the injectors to see if any of them were not working. Well they all are not working. The engine has not run for about 3 years so I expected that I might have one not working but not all eight. To test them I appied 12 volts to one terminal on the injectors and the negative lead from the battery on the other terminal and there was no sound, no clicking, nothing. Does this sound right or am I testing these the wrong way. I thought that I might just try applying 24 volts tomorrow to see if I can break them loose. If not I will be needing new ones. Any body have some? 24lb Larry