lgoodson@pacbell.net

I have a pre 95, 93 to be exact, But since I have the MSD waiting in the wings I'll turn everyone on to this find. A brand new distributer for a 94LT1 on Craigslist. Just came on today for $85. Check it out and let me know what you think. http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/1056236259.html

Glad to know about that relay. I saw a lot of them at Pep Boys one day but there was no information available on which one did what. Some other posts here on this site steered me towards a Delta Current Control device which I bought a month ago. Just got notified that it is finally being shipped. This device is suppose to work very good, I am going to use the Taurus fan and with this controller you hook it to the high speed and as the engine heats up the controller cranks up the fan speed to maintain a constant engine temperature. No fluctuations. Less stress on the radiator. This fan also continues to run after shut down until the temp is back down to the trigger temp. This is optional depending how you wire it. Now for the Bad part.... $125 and I ordered a changing 3 color lite that indicates to me at what speed the fan is running, Another $10. We'll see how it works, that is when I get this LT1 running. Larry

This OPTI stuff. I don't know. Expertst tell me that I need to get a MSD opti and now I am told that they are junk. They have 4 screws that hold the cap on instead of 2 for the GM OPTI. The problem is suppose to be theat moisture gets in and corrodes the contacts. So I bought a MSD on Ebay, got it for $124 including shipping. It is out of the box but it looks like it has never been installed. For the money I thought I would take the chance. They are $568 new. I had to fight for it on ebay though. What do you all mean when you say your OPTI blows out? What blows or is it burns out? Larry

David, thanks for the input but I wonder. The filler neck is lapping over the tank filler pipe by about 1/2". Do you think that will be enough with no leaks. The lap is about the same width as the hose clamp that holds it on. I kind of hate to pull the tank again and cutting the filler hose could open another can of worms if it doesn't work just right. For instance I noticed that the PO used a security screw to mount a gas cap lock externally of the cap and this screw is one that would have to be removed if I had tp change the filler hose and I don't have that tool to remove it. Is 1/2" enough do you think? Larry

David

I know that a lot of guys have changed tanks in early 240Z's. I am trying to put a 75 tank into a 71. I've got it in there but the filler neck does not quite reach the car's filler tube. It reaches but only by about 1/2" or so. The tank looks like it needs to move closer to the filler neck but it can't. There is about a 1/4" before the tank contacts the car frame. Now this, according to everyone on this site, is suppose to work but I don't think the 1/2" lap of the filler hose over the tank filler pipe is quite enough. What can I do to improve this situation, Thanks to the pros who will be able to help. Larry

It sure does, Thanks

I was just at a salvage yard and saw a Q45 LSD rear end with about 180K on it. Is this what we all want for our V8 Z's?. When I turned the wheel, the other wheel turned also therefore a POSI. The shape looks the same but I don't know about the bolting/

I have a set of instructions on how to clean your tank without having to Blast and coat your tank. It's a little involved but it will save you $250 or more. PM me with your email and I'll send it to you free of charge Larry

So is a driveshaft shop

Scott, Check craigslist, Orange county, LA, Phoenix, San Fran, Sacremento, Portland and seattle, I see lots and lots of R200's for sale. Good hunting Larry

Update on the bleeding. I did with no problem. I bench bled the slave working the slave piston with a tube on to it into a jar of brake fluid until the were no air bubbles. Capped the tube. Secondly I installed the master and put the -3 line into a jar of fluid. Keeping the resevoir full I pumped the petal until all the air was out. Connected th em together and pumped the petal a few times an as I did the spongyness disapeared, No Bleeder valve used.

-3 or AN3 is what you want and if you go to a Hydralic shop they. don't know what your talking about , go to another shop. Probably was a new hire that you were talking to. Everyone that I discussed this conversion with knew exactly what I was talking about. After all, it's what they do! I am confused about your statement that you told them that it was 3/4" in size. That is the master piston diameter and has nothing to do with the hose you use.

I believe that the check valve you mention is a pressure regulator so as to not over pressurize the heater core and the vent tubes I believe run into the TB and out to the upper radiator hose. If you look at a stock upper hose it has the tee built in to it with a hose that goes to the TB

Frst of all I am doing the same as you. Trying to figure it all out. I think that I have. First the vent pipes return to the UPPER radiator hose along with the oil cooler line, As far as the water pump heater hoses, they should be at least connected together not left open beacuse water would just pump out. Blocking them off would probably work too but I haven't tried it. Maybe someone else here can add to this thread.

Check this link post #4. I list all the parts there that I used http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142546

Here we go again. I am looking for a 75 or 76Z gas tank that is in good condition. PM me if you have one for sale. Larry

It's the one I used. Seems to work but haven't got the engine running yet. Saved space so you don't have to relocate your window washer bottle. 1.1 inch is what hte datsun master has but with a 5/8 piston so 7/8" should work. You'll need the -3 adapters to connect it up to the stock slave

Thanks for clearing that up. I was getting Juuuusst a little bit confused. Larry

Wheelman, Thanks. You see it like I do as far as hooking both the oil cooler and the head vent into the upper hose. I guess that would mean two tees unless you know a better way. It seems like it's getting a bit cluttered. As far as that 3/8" line. I just figured out tht the hose I was wondering about is the TB coolant line but on top of the TB on the passenger side there is another 3/8" line that looks like it has had fuel in it. I have the shop manual from Helms and pictures of the TB show this port but it doesn't say what it is. Any Ideas? Maybe I can make a double tee for that rad hose. I got to learn to braise. Since the vent has to connect to the upper hose on the opposite side of the engine, I don't see any reason not to run it through thee TB and do away with some of thet unsightely hose. Thanks Larry

Greg I undestand about capping off the TB lines but I have a third line coming out of the base of the TB about 3/8". Don't have a clue about thus one yet. DEJA. The oil cooler line is on the drivers side. It looks like it is suppose to go into the radiator tank but JTR's tanks don't have a available fitting. So I guess it will have to tee into the upper radiator hose but unfortunately JTR says to connect the head vent tube to the same hose so that means another tee unless I can make one with two connections. I was thinking about venting the heads into the lower hose Would that work? I was also thinking that maybe I could have a fitting installed into the passenger tank for the vent but JTR's tanks arre plastic, Can this be done? Larry

Looks like the mystery is solved. napa Auto Parts of McFaddenDale hardware for roll pins if anyone needs to know

Come home!!!!

Greg, I know these posts are a little old but I am still confused. The pipe that everyone is saying to plug is hooked up to my oil cooler system. 93 Trans Am's had that and I still have another hose about a 1/2" coming out from the bottom of the TB plus the top hoses in the TB, I seem to have only one steam vent hose that is tee'd in the rear from both heads that has to plug in somewhere I believe to the lower Rad Hose with a tee. Heater hoses, I know one plugs into the pipe on the left, the 5/8" one at the bottom and there is smaller 1/2" hose on the left TOP that is what? the other heater hose. Normally the heater hoses would be the same size. Where does that lower TB hose go? By now have you found a link to a complete hose diagram that I might go to. There is too many hoses on these engines. The return oil cooler line has to go some where, I suppose to the Upper rad hose since there is no port on the JTR radiator tank for it. Thanks Larry

I exchanged the shaft in the Tilton for the shaft out of the datsun, Same size so it was a bolt up. I kept the adjustment length the same because the stroke is the same, 1 1/8" so there should be no need to adjust. I have the metal slave you spoke about sitting on my work bench ($60). Never opened but since I was able to get the OEM slave blead out with no problem I'll probably just return it to AutoZone unless you know of an advantage to using it. I'll look at the exhaust issue. Here's a tip for you. Those roll pins used to hold the GM connector can be bought at a industrial hardware store. The one locally I go to is called McFadden Dale. Couldn't believe my eye as I was stolling down the isle and look over an saw boxes of them, every size you could imagine. I think they have several locations. Google them Larry