240zBoy

I am looking to replace my crappy dyed door panels with a nice used set. Preferrably with the speaker holes cut out and if possible the hardware. Let me know what you have and how much. Thanks

My best guess would be to purchase this http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-92-Camaro-Firebird-T5-Manual-Backup-Reverse-Lights-Harness-Connector-/360439102767?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item53ebd83d2f Then go take a look at a wiring diagram to find which wire needs to be the signal wire and which one should be given 12v. I would have to believe that is how a reverse switch would be wired.

Got the car without reverse lights wired up down there and there is no existing wiring. I am hoping I can find out a way to get reverse lights.

If someone could let me know how you were able to wire up reverse lights with a wc t-5 that would be great. Can't seem to find information on it. Going to take the tranny out to put a new driven and speedo gear on it to get the speedometer working right and want to get those lights haha. If I remember the sensor is in the transmission but I have nothing hooked up to it.

Alright good to know, now to get that allignment and finally enjoy the car. Thanks

If I push the clutch in the car seems to not have the issue. Is there a way to fix this engine braking, it is a fresh rebuild so I do not want to be hurting it but I have heard multiple opinions on it being bad or good.

I did have to replace one of the rear wheel cylinder because the bleeder valve snapped so maybe something is wrong in there. That won't be fun I hated being inside of that drum haha. But I will try that pyrometer and rotating the wheels before I go in there again. Maybe I just spoil myself and put disks all around

I recently did the larger toyota brake swap from MSA to my newly JTR swapped 1972 240z and inspected one of the rear brake drums so maybe I did something. I bought the car unrunning though so I do not know if this normally happens. But when I let off the accelerator the car slows down way to fast and I really am not even able to coast. I have to slowly release pedal while decelerating to keep from lurching forward in my seat. I do need an allignment so that may be part of it and I didn't replace my rotors while doing the front brake swap so those both could be factors. Anybody had this issue or know what it could be?

I just got the motor back in the car last week with my dad and just worked out all the bugs so we really would not want to take it apart. Can a new cog be put in while everything is all together or will I have to drop the tranny. I can drop it with the motor still in but it will set me way back for a little issue.

The gear is not that hard to get to though. Just drain the tranny and unbolt the retaining arm that holds it in and it slides right out. Atleast thats what my memory of how it came out when I had to put the c clip back on fifth gear.

Alright so should I be looking for a datsun speedometer gear or chevy or does it even matter. I am using the jtr speedometer cable and the gm speedo gear it came with so thats my problem. Just trying to get a lead in the right direction

I have a 72 240z with a jtr conversion backed with a world class t-5. The speedometer is almost reading 7mph above with the cable supplied. I also have a 3.54 r200 installed if that might be apart of the problem. Any input or solutions to fix this would be greatly appreciated.

yes that is how it works but the adapter is in the mail. But I need to get going on this car before I leave and did the above process to have it temporarily work. then I will screw on the adapter. But I later began to wonder if the jb weld will tamper with the ground to the block. I believe I will be fine and can use the temp at which my fans turn on as a guideline as to if it is working or not.

I decided to put a ring of jb weld inside of the retaining nut near the outer edge. This should leave enough of the sleeve to provide a good ground for the sender. The weld appeared to make a good seal but what do you all think. I also purchased the jtr adapter to put on when it comes for extra insurance. Jb weld is an insulator anyways so I think I should be fine. temp.bmp

Well seems like I need one of these http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Wat-Temp-Send.html. Think I can jb weld the sensor to the nut for now or will that mess with the readings? I am leaving soon and wont be back home for a couple months so ordering in the mail is something I dont want to do.

It is two pieces and cant seem to find a way for it to not leak. Original one was one piece but now the two pieces have a good quarter inch of play. Someone please help so I can start this tommorow

Another tip as for your wires, I am guessing your starter wires are the ones concerned about getting burnt. In my case I had similiar problem and what I did was bought the sparkplug protector sleeves and slid the wires through them on their way down to starter. Worked great.

Still stuck deciding, some more input would be awesome or links to aftermarket options would be greatly appreciated. Also does anyone know if the amc t-5 mates up a to a chevy 350 anyways. I pulled numbers off awhile ago and believe it was from an amc but that does not sound right to me.

Really interesting. I have a standard gm non world class though, so they do offer the better rings and such which would help but I don't believe putting world class gears in is possible. I am knew to this but this sounds like an affordable option that maybe I could play with a different t-5 and build before something bad happens to my t-5. Then sell when its out if it hasn't blown up by then haha.

Would my driveshaft work with the TKO? I am starting to lean towards a TKO so far after my researching. Plus my best chances at finding one second hand probably lie there haha.

Alright so I got a feeling the t-5 is the right choice to stay with. I will be on the lookout for maybe a secondhand built t-5 or if I get lucky the gears. I will probably need to install a new clutch while I am down there but thats not to big of an issue. The other thing I just found out is my standard t-5 cannot do the gear upgrade. Anyone have advice on a tremec tko-500 swap.

So I have a standard t-5 transmission in my car which worked fine with my chevy 350 but my car is currently getting overhauled since I spun bearings. It is getting bored .30 but still using a stock sized crank so it will now be a 355. Adding an aftermarket camshaft, alum intake, high flow oil pump while I am at it to. Anyways I will prob be up around 380tq and 350 hp somewhere in there and the stock t-5 wont last to long. I am low on cash thanks to the damn machine shop so I am going to baby it til I can save up for something stronger or other options. So I would like to know what is the best choice for me, a t-56, tremec trans, or beef up the t-5 with one of those expensive kits. I had a custom driveshaft made for my combo now and would not like to redo that but if I have to it is whatever. Pretty much, which manual transmission swap should I look into which would require the least heavy modifications from my current standpoint. Or is doing one of those t-5 gear upgrades wortth it? Opinions would be very thankful.

IMO I would check timing if it is only under load.

Got a knock and ended up spinning a rod bearing or two and messing up the crank. Rebuild time. Going to throw in a big cam while I am at it, high flow oil pump, fix 5th gear and maybe grab some better flowing heads. Of course I got to get my crank re-grinded and see if rods are reusable ughhhh this sucks.

Wrap your manifold, ceramic coat it or even spray some high temp paint on it. If your manifold was able to do that something is wrong there and I would attend to that first IMO