240zBoy

Exactly my thinking. I want to fab up my own exhaust using summit piping and mendrel bends. Would cost me only around $100 in material. And to make my own rear strut brace just like PDKFabrications because they won't put it in production and that is $150 online w/o shipping and would cost ~$50 in material. I see that as over $400 in savings and would pay for the welder easily. But then again I am really trying to get this done quickly and that would take a lot of time.... Guess we'll see

Nice job on getting the welding down. The rear is gonna look really good when ya finish it up. I am really motivated to go pick up that little welder now. I even got a 20% percent off coupon today so that might have done it for me. Now to convince pops to let me keep it in his garage haha. He thinks there super dangerous even though I borrowed his friends mig and tank last summer lol.

Another thing. I recently was looking into buying that 110 flux welder from HF that you have and from what I heard by buying lincoln welding wire the results are a million times better. The welding wire it comes with splatters more than Yao Ming pissing in a toilet. To add to that maybe try a different size wire.

I say you put painter tape in through the holes though or even ball up painters tape and push it through until it creates a backing on the other side. You won't be able to get the tape out but its not like it will harm any thing.

Here's an idea that I have used with smaller holes and might be worth a try... Put painters tape on backside of bumper and then apply jbweld to the front. Smooth and apply just like bondo. Wait until its try and painters tape will come right off the back. Grind till smooth.

I have been trying to purchase this one for the harness application to but he says they are not in production or some BS which pissed me off cause that was my plans and I now have to get one custom made. http://www.pdkfabrication.com/Rear%20Strut.htm

Another thing I forgot to mention... check the fuel line for any kinks it might have or un neccesary routes of the line. Most likely not it as that would cause fuel pump issues but I guess the best thing to do first is to check what type of pressure your getting. FYI things normally go wrong in places where we tinkered with so checkout those injectors and rail and make sure it's properly installed.

It might be sending to much fuel to the motor and causing it to bog down. I doubt the coil would cause such an extreme loss of power like that.

Minus hood, alum wing, and ugly headlights and it would not be all that bad.

If not could someone reference me to a pair of seats that will fit my needs. If my dad was a little skinnier I would hop on some a4's but they are pretty narrow. The only other seat that I think will work for both of us is something like the Moab or a seat built like the mitsubishi evo's. I did find some sort of knockoffs for real cheap from NRG like the evo's that do not look half bad. In other words the seats can not have to aggressive wings because I'm 5ft 11in and 165lbs were my dad is 6ft1in 240lbs haha. -Need 4pt harness capabilities -Pop's has a 39-40in waste -Fit into a 240z -Be $650 or less for pair

Yes I know these were made for jeeps and what not but to me they do have the same styling look as 240 stock seats. These seats are 21.5 wide and 36.5 tall. Stock z seats are around 32 to 33 tall so a little taller and wider. I have not seen anyone put these in there but they do look good and are affordable. Maybe the reason they have never been put in is the width because that is a very wide seat for a Z but I want to know if anyone thinks I should go for it. Along with it would be a 4pt setup which is the reason I am buying new seats and not recovering my old ones.

How much do you think would be a reasonably price to have two bumpers restored at. 1200 Bucks is out of my league.

I'm in Washington State to and if you have any luck that would be great. Mine need to be straightened in a couple spots and rechromed so if you find something PM me or let me know. I have been checking Craigslist for a couple months and just gave up. Unless we can find a shop I might just be buying fiberglass bumpers and painting them black which I would rather not have to do.

Thanks a lot for the help. I think your car looks great with that combo and when you go coil overs or any type of a drop that thing is gonna be even more sexier. I am gonna be throwing down around 290-305 horsepower on the 350 so I think a 205 would be fine. My main issue was the fender cause I don't care about grinding a little metal off the strut. Any others out there keep em comin

Already did that... that's why I am asking if anyone is running these wheels

I love the way this car sits on these tires and would like help for me getting as close to possible. I already have the tokico struts and eibach springs installed along with toyota calipers in the front. From the pictures I believe these are Rota Rb's in hyper-black and in the 16in size. I also do not want to run flares. I have been searching and came across the rota Rb in the size of 16in with 114.3 bolt pattern and 8 inches wide and +4 offset. Now if all I would have to do is some minor fender rolling I would be pleased but no one here really runs the 16 (Or openly talks about it). So What I want to know is what it takes to run this wheel (Spacers, strut grinding, fender rolling) and what size of tire would be best. I am stuck between 205-225,45,16 but if anyone has run this wheel and had success with another size tire it would be sweet to here input.

Alright well scratch that motor. Ended up being a mis-stamped block. Two number sources on the block read 5.7l but one came up as a 5.0l so I cracked it open and got a bore diameter of 3.75. Sucks but new motor will be coming soon. I got the msd hopefully all wired up right and the holley pump arrived in the mail today along with the fuel safety switch all from Summit. Trying to get this baby movin!!

Doing the swap according to JTR and I am at the water neck and think I am seeing a water temp sending unit here and I believe also at the heads. I do not know what the similar unit more on the right closer to the carb is either. Did not get to see it removed from other car so it makes this hard for a first timer like me. Wait til I get to the carb. Oh jeez. But any help as to what these two units on my water neck are would be cool. I am thinking of just buying a simple chrome one use the what I believe spot on the cylinder head right below the header. -Thanks

I got a wet stain in my pants now. haha

Okay. So which black and white wire do you think he wants to get 12v. I would guess the larger one in that picture but it was not connected to the coil

I might be in luck though if this is what they all are talking about. They meet the color requirements and kind of do a loop lol.

So according to this post http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=37376 . I should run the red wire to the white wire on the right? I am really confused

I can try to get better pics if these do not show it.

I'm trying out the tach adapter from msd to get this baby working on my 72. There is another topic that sort of talks about it but I got a quick question it did not cover. Where exactly is the tach inductive loop that has the green/white wire and the black/white. Is it that mechanism by the original coil with two larger wires going to it or actually behind the tach. Help would be awesome as I'm in a pickle and can see both these colored wires (a couple b/w actually) in both places. -Thanks