240zBoy

It is a 72 that originally had a manual transmission. Its far from that now with the JTR swap and everything but I think I am getting closer to an answer. I have my multimeter out seeing how it all might work according to the reference post and I think part of my issue is the switch itself. But if someone can confirm that the red wire up at the headlight connector was orginally a ground then I should be good.

Got back into my rewire and hit a problem. I have been following this reference http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/58899-ezwiring-guide-still-not-complete/ And it says that my RED 01 Headlight power wire connects at the column and goes all the way out to the headlight connector. Yet in my harness, my RED 01 Headlight power only goes to the column section and no other wire is to be found in any of the other harnesses that could travel to the headlight connector. This is really bugging me because it makes no sense. IMO i really should only need a the low beam and high beam from the switch because they are being supplied power from the RED 01 wire. But I do not know what to do with the left over red wire at the connector that is suppose to be supplied by RED 01 according to the reference. I am thinking it should be grounded but I dont know. Help would be greatly appreciated

Awesome I to am doing the mini 20. I had my headlights and fans previously on relays and I will probably do that again but I think my head light switch might be faulty. I just bought it to replace my last one . Might have to look into those painless switches or even the EZ wire switches which are cheap if you have good luck with them. The manual is definately a terd and the wires could have been labeled a bit more user friendly. Should do the trick though.

Thank you for answering about the double feed to marker lights, I thought it wouldn't work. lol my bad on the driving light term, I just meant like being visible during the day and night on the road with lights. I will probably just send a 12v switched to markers and the park lights? Any opinions

So if I want driving lights and turn signals. If I splice turn signals into the marker lights, will they still blink if the lights are already engaged as driving lights, or atleast get brighter with more voltage. Also, the EZ kit calls them parking lights, these are what we call driving lights right?

hmm mine is all messed up then lol I guess I will do what I can with the service manual and go from there. Probably just gonna rip all the wiring out and start over.

So I am starting my EZ wiring harness upgrade and got to the instruments. I guess I am interested into if any of you left the gauges wiring alone or if you ripped everything out and managed to rewire the stock gauges. I feel it is really hard to salvage the stock gauges with the rewire and probably why many replace all of them. I already have the Revolution Tach and Speedo but I was going to try and use the center three. What did you guys do?

So ever since the swap I installed a shifter boot from some random truck I snagged at the junkyard but it doesn't mount quite to my perfection and lets a good amount of fumes in. I had to slightly alter the shifter hole for the t-5 transmission and was wondering what some of you have done or a link to a shifter boot that worked well. I would like to continue to use the console so keep that in mind.

I run a performer rpm intake and it fits. I had to run the shortest filter i could find on summit and it definately gets close but it fits with only having to cut down the airfilter stud.

If someone has a spare dome lamp for a 72 240z that would be awesome. Mine managed to be so brittle that it broke in my pile of parts when I went to reinstall. If someone could help this youngster out for a few bucks that would be much appreciated. Any used working dome lamp will do. Thank you Please send me a PM instead of using this post

These dang lights are the only thing holding me back from driving this z around and I am at a wall. I purchased a used combo switch online and put it in, no difference. Cleaned up the inside of the combo switch and still nothing. I have been doing research and people say the green and white wire is normally the culprit but I dont know. I recently did do the headlight relay modification but everything there seems to be right. Problem is the red/black wire to the low beam relay is not sending any power and thus not triggering the relay. In addition to all these, the middle relay on the right side of the fuse panel labeled Park. Tail 20A was blown so I put a new one in and it to blew :/ so possibly could have an issue there related Please help me out

Pm'ed: Joel from Everett, 72 240z with Jtr swap being finished up.

Yea I am at a college summer session right now but I will pm you when I get back. Thanks for the compliment, they worked out great, I did put longer studs and a spacer on the fronts because the fronts just pairly kissed my toyota brakes. Could have took a grinder to the brakes a bit if I wanted to but figured I shouldn't. I actually have 2 extra spacers and 2 sets of the longer quest studs somewhere at home because I didn't put them on the back. I did have to use a dremel to get the spacers to fit flush. Let me know if your interested. Update: Toreit open with a family friend last weekend on his lift to check out the rear main. It was a brand new seal we put in but it failed. Just a cheap product I guess. Went out and bought a metal/rubber $20 rear main seal and siliconed the piss out of it. Dry as a bone as of now. Tranny also needed to be resealed along the shifter. WOOHOO! Fully opened it up when I was driving home and it is so much faster than before! Time for the exhaust when I get back!

I'm down, it would be cool to have a bunch of us WA guys roll into a larger meet together. I know nw-built.com puts up local meets and is welcome to anyone who joins the forum.

I would like get my steering wheel back into good shape and was looking for some input. It should be pretty straight forward but I was wondering what type of stains for the wood you guys would reccommend. Also maybe any special tricks you all use. Thought it would be a fun and rewarding little project. My thoughts are to use something like minwax polyurethane and then put 2 coats of clear on it. Not like I can not resand it if I do not like the look with the clear but I think it will really make it pop and protect it even better.

LOL I live about 4 minutes from zspecialties up cathcart and past that safeway a bit. Don't buy much from him because he is a bit $$ but he knows his stuff.

I second Emerald. Before you start tearing your dash apart and possibly causing more problems, always go and clean all your grounds. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, it will still be a good thing to do.

Never completely done but here is my z. Actually my first car and started working on right before I turned 16. Almost 19 now haha.

Haven't updated this in a long time haha. Rod knock was much more severe then thought and resulted in getting the cylinders bored and a new crank. Along with it I got it decked and the motor hot tanked. Threw in a big cam that is made by CNC or something like that. Read up on it and its kind of a mystery cam but I like it. Thought it was going to be to big but it still turned over and has a beautiful sound. So now it's a 355 with hyperteuctic pistons. In addition, overheating was what caused my engine failure so I got an aluminum radiator with a big summit racing fan and built myself a custom shroud out of alluminum. Is doing a nice job. To be really safe I am also wrapping my headers when I attempt to get the exhaust a little higher in a couple weeks. Anyways I got to fixing fifth gear as a clip backed off fifth gear. Have better interior pieces on the way to. She is leaking a little oil and tranny fluid so a family friend is going to fix that while I am finishing up my summer school session at college. Good news is, the motor is a monster and I love it. This is a photo someone took from the show I attended before leaving for school.

I am looking for some 240z black door panels with the speaker holes. They need to have no tears and solid backing. PM me and let me know what you have, will still consider if they don't have the speaker holes.

Yup I love it and it gets the job done safely. Not the best way to mount harnesses but it is much better than the lap belt I had before and certainly better than going to the floor.

Safest way to do it is to roll bar but I couldn't afford one so I made my own version of the PDK strut bar for like 25 or 30 bucks. You can see more on how I built it in my signature link. Speaking of which I really need to update haha. It is removable to.

I am talking with two people in regards to nearly complete interiors but if they fall through or want to much I will pm you and see if you still have the used vinyl and dome lamp. Would love the door panels but I'm in the used market

Looking for 1972 240z crack free interior plastics, diamond interior molding, dogleg moldings, and door panels in black. A center console if it has the choke lever. Along with as much as the hardware if possible. I really need some door panels in good shape. I am just about done with the father/son project but the red interior I dyed black is not cutting it. PM me with what you have. -Thanks

Don't look like my JTR mounts. Could be homemade but I don't think you have all of the mount unless someone ran with one bolt which is scary haha