240zBoy

Alright I have no luck. It still will not get in a gear with the car running and grinds when I try to put it into reverse and like 3rd. So I bought that tilton master upgrade and I have this slave http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DHB-CS360052/. The slave is brand new and I really hope I do not have an issue with the pressure plate or throw out bearing. Any ideas? I really want to get this thing going soon and I have been held back a long time on this

Cool build man. I'm from Everett so we pretty close. Been goin through a lot of the stuff you are in my build to haha dam weather.

well I would just like it to be there even though I wouldn't NEED one. Any one think that will be a quick fix. I don't need anything special just a crack free bottle and motor that I can plug in to the existing wires.

So my windshield wiper bottle cracked a long time ago. Now I was just gonna tape it up and deal with it but now I got the tilton mc in there and it wont fit. I do not even know if the motor works and might as well get a new one anyway. So I am looking for some options and was wondering if I could put something like this in. Just put the wires to this one and as long as power gets there it should be an easy fix. http://www.jcwhitney.com/electric-windshield-washers/p2004481.jcwx?filterid=c3810j1# Any opinions?

Wow man thanks a ton

Alright well I am going to order that one Miles since I to have a camaro slave in there and the fittings and what not already. Did you have to shorten the length of the shaft like the JTR manual says or were you able to swap them over?

I believe all the tubing is one inch and the sheet metal I used was a little shy of 1/4in. The cap for the strut tower at the top does not work for me but whatever. All I did was drill hole through my mounting point behind the vinyl. Put the vinyl on and then strut tower. Poked a hole through then slid the bolt through.

Alright I have fixed quite a lot of loose ends, and valves are tuned. Had to get a new Brake Booster cause mine was leakin air. Thats all good, but now I have to fix the issue with my clutch master. ughh. Anyways that wont be to hard and from there its just that and my carb getting tuned and mechanically shes done. Here are some pictures of the wheels. Keep in mind there is still a lot of weight missing from the car so might get a bit lower than it is now and I am fine at its height now. Lower is always better though haha. So I got some stuff done.... - Valves tuned - I installed an e-fan from Summit - New Booster - New Plugs - Finished and installed strut bar - Wired up bunch of stuff, made a power block for 12v, switched 12v, and a ground to clean up my wiring - New SS Brake lines all around

Brand new slave. Just tried startin car in first with clutch down and it jumped even when depressed all the way. Kinda scared me actually haha lucky I had e-brake down. Think NAPA would carry the tilton master

The car will not go into gear when running and it gets in any gear when off. It is a chevy 350 swap with a t-5 transmission. I adjusted the clutch throw and took off that little rubber block and it did nothing. It can get into third gear while running but not first or second. I was told to disconnect the power to my dizzy and turnover to see if car jumps while in gear. This will tell me if the clutch is not releasing or something? I dont know what to do and feel I might be buying a Tilton Master to fix this issue. Any help would be great because it is pissing me off.

Your metal fab is pretty dam good man. Keep it up

My Z is a 1972 240z, I have a bunch of loose wires in my column thanks to the P.O. Well first of all I see many wires near the back of the turn signal unit not attached to anything so if I could get a clear picture of that it would be really welcomed. I just need to see the back as to what colors are soldered to where. Also a broad picture of the complete column wiring would be great just to help with some more loose ends I have. I have searched everything and the wiring diagram but they do not help when it comes to getting wire re soldered and what not. Did work well if they were unconnected from the plastic connector clips. Not to mention I can learn and figure out much more with a visual picture. If anyone could help that would really make my week as my search button has been on overload.

Well I tried 3 different switched sources and none could do it I just said eff it and hooked up an engine cut off switch. I think my msd box might have got a little messed up when it was hooked to a constant 12v source or something.

I like it, leave it like that.

I have the msd6al ignition and I was experiencing run on problems. I narrowed it down to the fact that the smaller red 12v wire that is suppose to be hot when key is on. That wire I accidentally had going to a constant 12v and thus it wouldn't turn off. Now here is the weird part. While searching my wire harness for a switched wire I found one that went to a metal box with a thick white wire and a blue-red wire and a couple others. The thick blue-red is hot when key is on only. Thus I connected it there and it will not turn on the car. I connect it back to constant 12v and it turns on first try. When I disconnect it from the constant 12v while running it shuts the car off to so I know the run on problem is there. I even voltage tested both wires and they are identical. Any ideas? I am stumped

Wheels are on the car and got them wrapped in toyo proxes 4. Brakes are all done. Just waiting to get some help tuning my valves on mon or tuesday and to figure out a couple loose ends still mechanically. After that I will tackle my electrical while the dash is still loose from the speedo cable hook up. Really suprised on how nice the wheels look. They cleared fenders and front brakes with a 7mm spacer up front, but I won't know if they rub anywhere else until she runs.

Thanks J. Weird how one door weatherstrip can do the hatch and then some haha. Anyways, that was just what I was looking for and saves me $30 over msa's price.

HAHA for sure. They do have great hard to find products and everything all at one sight. Will say their sale prices are always tempting but anyways. If anyone can help me out. I would like to tackle stuff over my winter break from school.

Well tried to order an inner hatch weather strip "body to hatch" from MSA and once again they advertised they had it in stock and didn't. So now I get to cancel that, weird they didn't and expected me to wait "about a year" until they get them in stock. Yes they actually told me to wait a year and my payment is on hold until then. Whatever lol So now I am here trying to find an alternative for a maximum of $80.00. That hurts just saying that. I have been looking at jcwhitney for some but not sure if they will work. Help me out if you have found something that has worked for you.

Me and a couple of my buds play forza 3. We should have only z races and limit class and **** would be sick. gamertag is: JoeDaMa

It sucked as far as being a comedy but was alright to watch as far as learning about cars. They needed a comedian with no car experience in the mix for sure like adam sandler, steve carrel, or will Ferrel. You get my point lol.

I am looking for a good complete pair of doors for my 72. Window is not a necessity but I need the mechanism for the window,lock and what not to work. One of the reasons I am thinking of ditching mine along with the rust.If prices are to high I will keep mine but doesn't hurt to see. I also need a complete black 240z interior minus seats, center console, dash. I had bits of pieces of red interior in mine and definately not putting back in. This means all the plastics, diamond pattern stuff, door panels. Been checking craigslist and no luck yet. If some people out there have parts cars or whatnot it would be great. PM me with what you have.

Ordered some 16x8 rota rb's in hyperblack. Haven't worked on car in a bit but that's definitely a little motivation

Hooked it up and now it won't start . 85 to ground "Maybe its not a good ground source I dunno" 86 to the 12v source of my ignition "Hot when key is on" 87 to the msd small red wire 30 to the battery. Something must be wrong here as it should atleast start. Please help me!!!

I dont mind adding another switch since I have the fuel pump on one. But I would rather not have two switches and just one would be great. Any recomendations on how to install the relay and sizes? New to relays so just wondering. Edit: Nevermind, Pops got home and taught me. Will be trying it out tommorow. After reading other sites it should work so I will get back with hopefully some good news.