240zBoy

Think I'm gonna try a dual ballast resistor. Cross my fingers

So I have a msd6al ignition newly hooked up. Problem is when I turn it off the car keeps running til the bowl is empty in the carb. Now I know it needs a diode sometimes with the msd ignition so I hooked it up but still stays on. I installed a jumper with the diode within from the large power terminal to the farther of the two terminals. It stays on. I do not have an idiot light or voltage regulator as the manual applies it to, so anyhelp would be appreciated. Or letting me know how you installed it would be great to. -Thanks

Don't know about a tip yet but its done.

Well I was suppose to be done for this school year being my senior year but due to my engine ordeal I missed that date by a bit. Between school and my part time job it is hard to find time but any bit is for my Z. Definately lost a bit of social life haha. Anyways, Today was first day in a week I have had to put a good amount of time in, started and got half way done with exhaust. (Got it back to the diff with dual 2.5in and met at a Y pipe, eventually going to go to a single outlet). My 13yr old lab helping me out

That cobra looks amazing. I love a dark red on 240z's. Just a touch darker than that cobra is one of my favorites, especially if flush on chrome wheels

Thanks guys. If I did not trust my welds I would not have welded in my floors but I am willing to say I know this can hold up to a bunch of pressure and I am not worried one bit of it failing. I know a roll bar would be better but I do not want a roll bar and its a million times better than having belts go to the floor or strut towers. I weld in a well ventiliated area and material even being new was sanded down before welding. Thus I had very good penetration. It was actually a fun little project to do while I waited for another q-jet. Here is the finished product not installed.

-Bought and installed new starter -Recieved material to build my exhaust -Finished rear strut bar and painted it black -Sent bumpers off to powder coaters Oh yeah btw I got the motor to start!!! Definately woke the neighborhood up at night and to add on to that I got my braces off. Today was definately a good day! -got to get a diode in the alternator to shut it off -Build exhaust -Clean up some wiring

Por-15!!!

I do not see an LS swap being done on a college budget after an ECU, engine mounts, cv's, transmission and all that other crap. But that 350 will be able to easily satisfy your needs and some more.

Well thanks to PDK not selling me a rear brace I'm almost done with my own (all tacked in but stil gotta finish welds, clean up, and paint it. Got my wheel spacers and extended lugs for some wheels in the future but workin on puttin those in. Broke a darn banjo bolt for my brakes that no one sells so waitin for that. Recieved a better quadrajet carb and waiting for a fuel inlet piece. And to add on to all that I am ordering my stuff to make my own exhaust!!! I need to go into Superspeed right now to get this thing done!!!!!!!!!!

Badazz setup right there. Movin lots faster than me lol

I get similiar feelings man but I'm still chuggin along.

Still have not started thanks to a bad carb. Waiting for another one from a friend but in the meantime I ordered a new toy that's in the mail. Can you say HOBART 140. haha. Will be making my own rear strut brace so I can have a proper harness mount, custom seat brackets, fill holes on bumper, weld a couple patch panels on.

Drop it on some gold snowflakes for sho. Anyways nice find.

Still got to bleed the clutch and cap off some vacuum hoses on the q-jet but I am going to try and start tomorrow when I do not have any work. Wires are still messy but I will clean them up once I know for sure the wiring is correct. Dressed her up a little and what not.

Engine is another issue that sounds like mine when I had issues with the carbs. I had a crack in my vacuum hosing on the carb setup near the base which was causing mine to do that so maybe check that out. It sounds like you just need to bleed those breaks really good.

MORE PICS Looks like it will come out good man. Prep is the main factor

Met a really cool guy at NAPA today and he helped me out a bunch with my carb to but anyways. He told me it just needs to go to the positive terminal on the battery for anyone else out there that was in the same boat as me. Just as easy as that. So tomorrow I get to make a trip to ACE and get some larger eye connecters, hose clamps for my radiator hose that started to leak, and I will be good to start tacklin the vacuum hoses on the Q-Jet. Woohoo I want this thing to start really bad.

anyone?

Doing the JTR swap and have to find the voltage sensing wire. It goes to one of the two terminals on the back of the alternator. I might have cut it off but if someone could let me know what wire/color it is and which terminal to put it in it would be awesome. Been stuck with this for awhile and its my last wire without a home.

Update: Got the car back with an actual 350 in it lol. Been really moving fast to try to get this thing running. So here we go -Got another engine in. -Wired up the Holley Red Pump -Wired up the entire engine according to JTR "Trial and Error will come soon" -Re-wired up MSD -Installed the new clutch line -Got my hood nice and smooth -Flushed Radiator, stripped and repainted with engine paint "Looks brand new besides some wavy fins", reinstalled -Picked up some new spark plugs -Installed a new starter solenoid as plastic part on first one snapped So I need my flexible radiator hosing and fan with spacer to come from Summit Racing parts wise. Biggest part to tackle will be figuring out how this darn Q-Jet gets hooked up but we'll see. Still got to catch up with all my fluids and bleed the clutch, but that can be dealt with while waiting for my parts.

so now what I have read up on it seems like people splice the green wire near the center console box. I dont know why that would matter though as the green wire will still have power at the same time as it did not get removed from its power source. But I see it would make since if removed from the center console control box then spliced? Another thing I have heard is to not even care about it if you are running a carbed motor.. My problem with that would be that my fuel cut off switch would not be hooked up right and I would like it to be working. Someone please help me lol I dont want to be stuck trying to figure this out for a week.

Started to tackle the wiring on my fist v8 z-car and came to a hault at the fuel pump. Earlier in the manual I was told how to wire my 72z using the wires that were installed in the rear for a fuel pump that was never installed in America. So I did that but then I started to install my fuel pump switch from Summit and had a brain toot. It states "Do not connect the wire that operates the starter solenoid to the fuel pump, because when the oil pressure switch turns on the fuel pump, the starter will also be turned on. If you do this just once you will probably never do it again" And then this just adds to the mess that the last quote said "If you are using HEI "Which I am" the easiest way to wire the fuel pump for cranking conditions is to connect the green-white wire to the fuel pump wiring" If someone could clear up these two into what I need to do to have my wiring for the fuel pump correct it would really get my project on the move. -Thanks

Well I am doing the JTR conversion and thus I sold my stock fan and clutch. Not that it would have worked "most likely". So I was looking into getting a 15in flex a lite fan with a clutch for like 70 dollars and the flexable radiator hoses and just be done with it. Correct me if I am wrong but besides the shroud, "spacers if needed" and making sure it gets nice and close to my radiator I do not think I need anything else besides the clutch and fan. I am new to the whole car thing but clutches appear to just be a bolt on mechanism. I want to know what other people use because this is a stock internally 350 out of a truck and feel this would be an adequate setup.

I want to not use an electric fan for basic reasons and would like that topic and debate to be avoided. What I am looking for is advice on to what size of mechanical fan I should run. I made a template and think a 15in fan would be fine but bigger is better. It has to be able to clear radiator hoses in which I will be using the flexible ones from summit. I see very little talking about mechanical fans here but I do see them in pictures every now and then. So if anyone has some recommendations or could tell me their setup that would be awesome.