Pyro

I see you are not using a completely stock sr20det setup. Do you think this could account for more than 160hp off boost? I hope your engine could make 193hp off boost, if not, then I would guess the dyno results are off a little. A blast down the 1/4 mile would also help determine hp.

Well, it is just a simple method for estimating hp from boost, so don't expect too much. it is just max theoretical power from boost, which can easily be reduced by tune, fuel, and environmental conditions. however, it works much better than guessing 15 hp per 1 psi of boost, or something like that.

Just simple boost math. Use the pressure ratio as the hp multiplier. for example, if an engine makes 200 hp with no boost then add 14.7 psi of boost and it should double the power (400hp). pressure ratio is 2 with 14.7 psi of boost. (2 x 200 =400) so with 18 psi of boost, the pressure ratio is (14.7 + 18)/14.7= 2.224. that means 430hp could only be made if the engine could make 193.3hp with no boost. (193.3 x 2.224 = 430). so, with 20, 22, and 24 psi of boost, the pressure ratio is 2.360, 2.497, 2.633. Which makes 456hp, 482hp, and 509hp. works to estimate lower boost numbers also, for example 7.5 psi would make 290hp (1.5 x 193.9) in this case.

From your 430 hp at 18 psi result, it should make the following: 456 hp at 20 psi 483 hp at 22 psi 509 hp at 24 psi.

You need a bunch more timing at idle. Especially with only 12" of vacuum. Here is a nice timing article for an old school 350 chevy which should also apply for an old sbf. http://www.corvette-restoration.com/resources/technical_papers/Timing101.pdf I didn't see a vacuum advance canister on your distributor. If you don't have one, then you really need one for a street car. also get a ford taurus or t-bird fan from a mid 90's car. You can pick them up for $25 from a u-pull-it type junk yard. You need at least 3000 cfms. The ford fan is a 2 speed fan, and even low speed would be strong enough. They come with a build in shroud. nice. a cross flow radiator would also help.

In racing conditions, could be the gas is leaving the tank too fast. So a vacuum in the tank is created which makes it hard for the fuel pump to pull fuel out of the tank.

It is like eating a double cheese burger and larger fries then ordering a diet coke. You buy a "free flowing" muffler then pack it with crap. You should had bought a quiet muffler in the first place.

after you get tired of all the noise. get a msd efi pump and the aeromotive return style fuel pressure regulator. you will be much happier.

I would be worrying about that holley fuel pump working for more than a year (if it is a typical holley carb fuel pump). Those brushes wear out quickly and those pumps are super loud. I would use the stock efi pump and use a aeromotive return style fuel pressure regulator than can go down to 5-7 psi ($125 from sumitracing).

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chevy see the stock flow numbers of the L98. only 200 cfm.

hard to get a tpi to make power in the higher rpms (ported or not). yes, because of the intake. L98 heads don't flow well. But either does the tpi intake so it should be a good match.

maybe he is measuring the exhaust manifold temperature at each cylinder? in any case, a compression test would be a good idea.

The cam you want is too big for a 283 and a tpi system. check out compcam's website. They have tpi cams. with flat tops a +0.030" 283 will make around 8.4 cr with a 64c head. 8.8:1 cr if you zero deck the block. If you run a cam much bigger than stock, then the ecu will need a re-tuned. check out this cam. compcam 252AH-12, 206/212 at 0.050" 112 lsa. makes power to 5000 in a 350 so add about 500 rpms for a 283. world product SR heads would be OK. get the smallest port possible, since you are only using a 283 and the tpi system is a low rpm, high torque setup. you would be better off using a 350 block.

never mind.

shift fast so you don't burn your hand. just kidding sounds like the clutch isn't releasing all the way. When standing still, how far do you need to push the clutch in to prevent the car from moving?

put a small piece of paper in the secondary hole. drive it hard stop and look for the paper if it is gone then the secondaries are opening.

sounds very restrictive to me.

sorry no pictures. but you must take apart the distributor. mount the distributor in a vise pry off the star with 2 screw drivers remove the top plate drive out the bottom pin pull the shaft out you only need to weld on one slot. Maybe a 1/8" worth, then grind it flat.

run 25 degrees at idle. 36 total mechanical. This will require less mechanical advance in the distributor. I have reduced the amount of advance many times. Take apart the distributor and weld up one of the slots to about 2/3 the length. 25 initial will really wake up the throttle response and make the exhaust smell less rich. make sure to adjust the idle a/f mixture after adding more timing.

yes, a 260 cam is close to the 256 (biggest stock z cam) but quite a bit bigger than the typical 248 degree Z cam. with stock gears and stock compression, a 280 degree cam is much too big.

if the 82 is running, then I would just swap everything over to the 78 (including the ecu wiring). If for some reason you don't want to remove the ecu wiring from the 82, then run new wire in the 78. With a stock turbo engine, 10 psi with an intercooler, and 3" exhaust should make around 215hp at the wheels. But you should be able to turn the boost up fairly easily for more power.

Unless you plan to increase compression ratio and increase gear ratio then keep the new cam mild. I would go to a U-Pull-IT type car junk yard and get a cam and set of rockers from a 280z (77 to 78) or 280zx (79 to 83). These cams are internally oiled so you don't need to use a spray bar. Just block off the spray bar holes or use both oiling systems at once (bar and internal oiling cam) Get the cam reground by Deltacams for $60.00. Get them to regrind it to 260 degrees with 0.420" lift. Then get a set of 0.160" lash pads from Courtesy Nissan ($40.00). don't over cam!!!

it says on the card that the Intake lobe center is at 106. You time the cam at the peak lift which is the lobe center (106)

yes, just regular steel pan. welding would be best. Arch welding would be tough, as the metal is thin. punching and taping is for people who do not want to take off the pan.

81 to 83 turbo engine use a rear sump pan. if you are switching from center to rear sump then you also need to change the oil pick up tube. The most simple way is to punch a hole in the pan with a big sharp rod and thread on a fitting, as this can be done with the pan on the engine and engine in the car. A lot of super charge kits add an oil return this way. Drill a 1/4 hole in the pan at the stock drain line position, get a 24 inch x 1/2" steel rod and sharpen the end with a grinder, I also had to drill a 1/2 hole in the lower control arm mounting plate to allow the rod to past. Hammer the rod in, coat a 1/4 inch npt tap with grease, tap the hole, clean off the grease in the hole, coat a 1/2" x 1/4 npt fitting with rtv and thread it in. tap for a 1/4 npt is 0.437" so don't knock the 1/2" rod all the way in. I prefer the rear sump pan because it allows the IC tube from the turbo to be run under the oil pan.