Pyro

I would use a msa turbo stage 1 cam or at least use a NA cam which has 8 more degrees on the intake, which will give you 500 more useable rpms. get a cam from a 76 -80 N47. my stage 3 turbine wheel doesn't build full boost until 3500. I made the same mistake. "upgraded" to a bigger turbo with the stock cam. (T04B-H3/T3 stage 3) made it a dog under 3500 and only pulled hard to 5000 (not fun) so, added a bigger cam (mas stage 1 turbo) and now it pulls to 6500 which is nice. car is faster with the bigger cam and turbo, but I do miss the low rpm torque of the stock setup. low rpm torque is fun on the street. (for me). If I had to do it all over again. I would use the NA cam with a stock turbine and a T04E-50 trim with a 1/2" spacer.

Not a good turbine for a stock cam. turbo will hit full boost around 3500rpm and the cam quits making power a 5000rpm. Makes a short power band. A stock cam works best with a stock turbine 50 trim would be better than a 57. You will need a 1/2" spacer between the turbo and the manifold, which means longer studs. Nice girl friend. Does she have a sister?

Mine is like that. But I can't compare to a short pipe because it has always been that long. But be careful! A very heavy rain storm while driving at highway speeds can suck in water. Make sure the filter is angled downwards and is as high up as possible.

change the heads first. power is in the heads. much better to have a 350 with a good set of heads than a 383 with a stock set. what heads are on your engine? most likely swirl ports which are terrible for making HP. I would start with for a roller block with vortec heads (96 to 98 truck 5.7 engine).

you need a 23 spline trans from a V8 camaro. 80's and early 90's. more splines means it is stronger and a V8 trans. you need a 153 tooth flywheel and a starter with a straight across bolt pattern (not diagonal). a flywheel from a 67 nova works well.

looks like my exhaust, but mine isn't as pretty. What I found out is, if you put in a short H pipe at the end (right after the rear end), it will stop the 2K rpm droning in the cabin. Got the idea from a corvette exhaust system and it worked great on my car.

friend of mine dyno'd his 77 turbo last year. F54 dished piston block stock P79 head stock manifolds 2-1/2 inch exhaust with aerochamber muffler stock T3 and wastegate big IC 7 to 8 psi of boost 27 degrees of timing 12.5 a/f made 200hp and 240ftlbs at the wheels. then ran 14.0 at 100 mph in the 1/4 mile

In "boost" theory, if you add 18 psi of boost to an engine that makes 135hp at the wheels then you should get 300hp at the wheels if everything is setup correctly. (18 + 14.7)/14.7= 2.224 and 2.224 x 135 = 300. In your case, 334hp with 16 psi and 240hp with 7 psi means your engine was making 160-162hp at the wheels with no boost. I would say a completely stock turbo engine with no boost will not make 160hp at the wheels, but its your dyno results, not mine.

No. the 3310 is a square bore vacuum secondary carb. so 375 cfms on the primaries and 375 cfms on the secondaries. The amount the secondaries open depends on the air demand. so, could only open for an extra 100 cfm, if that is all the engine wants. a 600 cfm would work ok also. I would get the cheaper of the two (750 or 600). But the 750 will give you room to grow.

the N47 head you have is not from a 280/280zx L28 (1977 -80). what you have is a N47 from a L24 maxima

the n42 and n47 has the same chambers and valves. the n47 has round exhaust ports and liners, the n42 has square exhaust ports and no liners. the n47 uses internally oil cam (oil comes out of the cam lobe), and the N42 uses a spray bar. so, if you want to use the 240 cam then you will be required to use the N42 head with the spray bar. with stock dished piston, the compression should be 8.3:1 which will work fine for low to moderate boost (7 to 10) on pump gas and fairly high boost with e85. The P90 and P79 have the bigger heart shaped chambers.

custom. but easy to make yourself. buy a standard 5 hole wastegate plate (1/4 inch), add the downpipe, then add the wastegate. the top wastegate joint is a slip fit. I don't use gaskets anywhere on the turbo. just high heat rtv. That includes the turbo at the manifold, downpipe to the turbo, and wastegate to the downpipe.

I would avoid edelbrock/carter carbs. save some money and get better parts and don't buy the "kit". get a 3310 holley 750 for $251.00 get a regular rpm intake, edelbrock 7101, $141.95 get a drop base air cleaner 14 x 3.

if you are on a budget then a carbon steel set is fine for casing threads. But not good for much else. high speed tool steel is what you want, but cost 3 times more.

I second Brad's recommendation. T04E-50 trim is about the best match for a L28. Use the stock turbine since you are planning to use the stock cam. The power band of the stock turbine matches the power band of the stock cam very well. However, I would recommend you use a NA cam which good for another 400 or 500 rpms of useable power over the turbo cam. If you plan to change the cam to something bigger, then open up the turbine to match, as bigger cams with more overlap don't do well with small restrictive early spooling turbines. More important to use a bigger down pipe with a small restrictive turbine (stock). So, use the 3 inch down pipe. FYI, you are going to need about 18 psi of boost to make 300 hp at the wheels with a stock NA cam and head.

Can't remember the exact specs, but I thought the schneider springs were a little too strong. Too strong a spring can lead to a cam going flat, especially with todays low emissions motor oil (lower anti wear additives). check out zddplus.com for an oil additive. should use the correct retainer with that schneider spring. This effects the installed height. need to use a deep well retainer if you use a big regrind cam (more than 0.160" lash pad for correction).

check out this t5 in you area. http://stockton.craigslist.org/pts/1930193650.html if it has the 26 spline input shaft then it will work.

read this. http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/completebuilds_testing/sucp_0910_chevy_350_engine_build/index.html

I would avoid crate engines. here you go. http://stockton.craigslist.org/pts/1967017474.html in your area. and complete. you would need to get a power steering delete kit and maybe an ac delete (if you don't want ac). would cost about 1000.00 to rebuild it at your local machine shop. Then add a regular rpm intake, 3310 holley 750, msd distributor, block hugger headers, and a little cam. (another 1000 from summit racing). or run the engine as is. 98K miles isn't a lot for a late model vortec. You can make 300 to 400 hp depending on the cam you choose (stock to 280 degrees advertised). However, the bigger the cam the worst the idle will be, along with worst mpg and worst daily drivability.

not so odd. looks like the one I built for my car. Has been working great for 5 or 6 years now.

if you haven't bought the 350 (290 crate) then don't do it. Pure crap. low compression engine with terrible heads and a very old school dog cam. This engine also makes low torque (less than 300ftlbs) you would be much better off with a later model vortec 350 (96 to 98 truck engine with roller cam and vortec heads). You can get a used, complete, low mile engine (craigs list, e-bay,....) and just swap the cam This engine already makes 275hp in stock form and would be at 300hp with a RPM intake, holley 3310, and set of block huggers. Then add a cam and get 325 to 375 depending on how big you want to go. Plus the torque would be in the 350 ftlb range. use a T5 out of a camaro. The trans needs to come out of a V8 car. (fine tooth input shaft). world class (later model) or non-world class (earlier model) doesn't matter. you need the bell housing and flywheel also. I used an automatic in my V8 z for a awhile and didn't like it. for exhaust plan on running a single pipe out the back. use 2-1/4" pipe off the block huggers, use a H-pipe after the transmission, then use some 12 inch dynomax bullets on each side, then go into a Y-pipe (2-1/4 in, 3 inch out) before the diff, then use mandrel bent 3 inch pipe to a big case dynomax turbo muffler. If you don't use the H pipe and bullets, the exhaust system will drone you out of the car. good luck with your swap. have you considered a turbo swap? I have done both V8 and turbo conversions and the power from the turbo can surprise you while remaining a good daily driver. Plus the turbo conversion is much cheaper and bolts right in (no custom work).

http://www.xcceleration.com/cr-boost%20101.htm

I had the same problem in my 76. changed the booster and that fixed it. my 240 (with a v8) has very little vacuum, due to a big cam, so I don't run a vacuum line to the booster and it stops ok (pulls down from 135mph in the 1/4 mile). Better no booster than a booster that slams on the brakes. So, unplug the vacuum line to the booster and cap it for now and get another booster when time permits.

isn't meth illegal? just kidding. But meth injection is not the same as running "just pump" gas.