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Pyro

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Everything posted by Pyro

  1. read this. there are lots of articles like this. http://www.hardcore50.com/Articles/georgeklass/greatmyths.htm
  2. tight budget and V8 conversion don't belong in the same sentence. And no you can't just bolt a v8 to a z trans. the biggest bang for the buck for an old z is a turbo. Very easy to do, as there is not much modification because the engine, trans, driveshaft, cooling system, shifter, and wiring already fits. for the cost of a Lt1, I sure you could add a turbo to your engine.
  3. comp gives a free length and you should know the installed height. so find the difference and use the rate to find the seat pressure. Then add in the pounds at max lift. yes, over the nose is at max lift of the cam. performance flat tappets need 90 to 110 pounds on the seat and around 230 to 260 on the nose mild/moderate performance rollers need 120 to 140 on the seat and 275 to 325 on the nose.
  4. spring rate and spring force is two different things. spring rate is how much force increase per inch and not how much is on the seat or at max lift. so for a 0.500" lift cam the pressure force will change by 161 pounds or 172 pounds more (depending on which spring you use). furthermore, the cam you have is a roller cam, so it will require much more spring force than a flat tappet cam. 130 lb on the seat and 300 at max lift should do it. The spring installed height controls the pounds on the seat.
  5. that is not a voodoo cam. the ramps aren't as aggressive. 285 - 235 = 50. However, still much more aggressive than stock and still would be good to use oil additive. I have chewed up 6 or 7 cams of this size and ramp rate over the years before learning oil was changed (very disheartening and expensive). I like the fact the cam has equal intake and exhaust durations. The heads flow well enough on the exhaust to not require more exhaust duration.
  6. voodoo cams and compcam xtreme cams have very quick rates (advertised-at 0.050" duration). Therefore are much harder on the lobes. That combined with any spring stronger than stock will eat lobes quickly with todays crappy oil. But it's a free country (for now), use any oil you want. Just giving you a heads up so your engine doesn't eat itself up. At least you will know why when a lobe goes flat and chews up the bearings. There are lot of theories with lobe centers. One popular theory is, if the head flows well then you don't need as tight of a lobe center to help fill the cylinder. See, a poor flowing intake ports gets a boost filling the cylinder from exhaust scavaging so more over lap helps that. old design (poor flowing) cylinder heads do well will tighter lsa and new heads with wider.
  7. I didn't see the flow pressure listed in the flow results.??? make sure to use an oil additive if you use regular engine oil. A Voodoo cam with heavy springs will eat lobes in no time using regular low emissions engine oil (low zinc). check out http://www.zdpplus.com. use a can at each oil change. racing oil still has the correct amount of anti wear stuff in the oil.
  8. flow number seem very good. almost too good. I wonder what pressure they flowed the heads at?
  9. don't need a donor car. you just need some turbo parts. first convert to efi. Megasquirt or sds or similar. then bolt on turbo stuff.
  10. first convert to efi or do something like this http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1073369#post1073369 in any case, change your head to a P79 or P90 to drop compression I would use a stock turbo manifold and turbo setup. run stock boost for a while then add an IC and up the boost. Do it in steps.
  11. check out the spec clutch torque ratings. http://www.nipponpower.com/product.phtml?p=368&mmk=491 the 240mm has 150 to 200 ftlbs more holding capacity as compare to the same stage 225mm. the spec stage 3 is tough to drive on the street. very quick engagement and chatter if you try to release the clutch slow (like you would driving on the street). A stage 2 drives like stock.
  12. Not sure what fidanza does, but the factory 240mm flywheel uses 9 bolts.
  13. If you have a turbo, then you really should use a 240mm clutch setup. The 240mm flywheel is the same size as the 225mm but it has 9 bolts that hold the pressure plate instead of 6. The extra weight of the 240mm setup is from the bigger pressure plate. The 240mm setup also requires the use of the 240 bearing hub which is shorter than the 225mm hub. the 240mm pressure plate throwout bearing hub is 48mm tall and the 225mm is 52mm. a stage 1 240mm clutch holds the torque of a stage 4 or 5 225mm. 240mm pressure flywheels were used on turbo engines and all 2+2 cars.
  14. What size flywheel are you using (225mm or 240mm). My spec stage 2 240mm has been doing great for 4 or 5 years now. Over 300ftlb of torque and no problems. Plus i drive it hard each and every time I get in it.
  15. lots of options. these use a drop base with a total height of 3.0 inches. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Air-Fuel-Delivery/Section/Air-Cleaners-Flame-Arrestors-Scoops/Part-Type/Air-Cleaners/Air-Cleaner-Fitment/Single-4-barrel-5-1-8-in-diameter/Base-Style/Dropped/Air-Cleaner-Shape/Round/Air-Cleaner-Size/14-in-diameter/Net-Height-from-Carb-Flange-in/3-000-in/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc summits sells them as low as 2 inches.
  16. I would think an X would have the same effect as a H pipe. I like X's better but they are harder to build.
  17. look around for a 280zxt turbo with wastegate and down pipe. should be able to find one for less than 150.00. This is by far the easiest way to get a turbo and wastegate for your engine a first gen 300zxt has a turbo that will work, but the wastegate will not be so easy to use. you can run 14 psi of boost with a stock t3. just need a good intercooler and keep it under 5,000 rpm. if you want to make it hard and put some other turbo on your engine then get a turbo that was also on a 2.5 to 3.0 liter engine. That is, don't put a turbo from a 2 liter on a 2.8. In 99% of the cases, the exhaust turbine will be too small
  18. 230 is real big. good for a max effort 350 (high rpm) or big cubes (420+). I would use 180cc or 200cc with a mild/moderate 350. use straight plug heads as they fit most headers.
  19. sorry no pictures now. I'll work on getting a few to post. When I first built the exhaust I figured the dynomax super turbo would be quiet and the Y-pipe would balance the exhaust pulses. Boy, was I wrong. I think the inside of the car was louder than the outside. Plus, the outside sounded weird. I was perplexed! So, I pulled all stops and put in a H-pipe after the trans and another set of mufflers before the Y-pipe. I wondered if only one of the fixes would have made it quiet, but since I had the exhaust out I went ahead and did it all. Plus the H-pipe held the pipes in the correct position while I inserted the short bullets. Now the engine sounds almost stock at idle and very quiet during "normal" driving. But sounds good under full power (inside and out of the car). Major difference! I got the idea of putting in the H-pipe before the Y-pipe from 2 other exhaust systems that I built years ago. One on a 73 vette and the other on a true dual V8 240, where two H-pipes were needed to get rid of the drone. One up front by the transmission and the other one in the rear right before the dual mufflers. I got the idea from an aftermarket corvette exhaust system that used a H-pipe in the rear. It worked.
  20. iron eagles are good heads. But they come in a lot of different sizes. 64 or 72cc chambers, 180, 200, 215 or 230cc intake ports, and straight or angles plugs. So, which Iron eagles are you talking about? journal size is not a big deal on a mild build. As long as you can get the right size bearing easily, it should be ok. Be aware that taking that much material may require chamfered bearings (depending on how the grind is done). A chamfered grind is stronger (radius at ends).
  21. I only used 4 foggers in the intake. With a single plane you could get by with only 2. drill and tap fogger ports about an inch under the carb. you already have the solenoids, right? A plate is easier.
  22. Since you don't have a plate, you might as well get some foggers and drill and tap into your current intake. I did that on my RPM intake because there was no hood clearance for a plate. Worked great. get a small fuel pump for fuel enrichment. I used a mallory comp70. Another idea is to use a one gallon fuel cell for the n02 fuel enrichment. Then run 114 octane in the foggers.
  23. Getting the engine together is by far the easiest part of any engine swap. Sounds like you are tripping on peddles on the way to climb a mountain.
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