Ylo73z
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Everything posted by Ylo73z
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I wonder why mine had clearance issues ? The only modification is the front diff crossmember is notched to fit the dual 3" exhaust
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I was thinking of going long with my end links , but I like how yours are so short ...that would make my sway bar clear ...still need to road test under hard acceleration to make sure the control arm is for sure free and clear
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I run the hoosier quick time pro's 26x9.5 15 I will flare the car and I plan on getting at least another 2 inches under there in the near future
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It's a long rod 14:1 compression 383 stroker motor , AFR heads , roller motor ,ect .
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I'm going to make some 1/8th mile passes and some street miles cruising ...no locktight I'll see how much they loosen up
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No I didn't , 4.11s are coming out in exchange for the 4.60s LSD , stock adapter flanges and stub axles are coming out for billet units , then I'll locktight everything , put on the trans brake and see what a r200 can take
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I cleared the control arm by cutting the inner sleeve on the mustache bar bushing then replacing the old lower bushings , cutting the sleeve allowed me to tighten the nuts a 1/4" further before bottoming out , I also hit the control arm with a grinder to make sure it was clear , once I deal with the sway bar I will road test as again and give the results
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Yeah I can take a picture today , I pretty much only straight line my car , so I was thinking about ditching the away bar but I was worried about how the car would plant removing the sway bar , I was also thinking of just getting longer endings to raise the sway bar away from the cv boot
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And yeah , the outer boot on the passenger side is rubbing the sway bar ...not sure how to deal with this yet ...I'm thinking longer or shorter end links
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I actually found that it is rubbing on the right side inner joint on the control arm ....not sure how I'm going to approach this yet but I think I'm going to try and make a washer to shim the mustach bar up to raise the diff up and hopefully keep the inner cv joint off the control arm
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Swapped in the wolf creek cv shafts on my 77 280z and now it has a nasty vibration / grinding noise , but only forward loaded , checked it on the jack stands , nothing , backed up , nothing , put it back in drive and accelerated and it vibrates ...I'm sure it's simple ......all cv alignment and adapters looks good when rolling on jack stands
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I run the hoosier quick time pros on the street , 26x8 ...they hook pretty good but I want to do a mini flare and try and get a 10" hoosier under there
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Screw it , I just bought the wolf creek set up ...thanks though
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Is it possible to just swap the 300zx turbo cv ends to non turbo cv axles to use with the white head 300zx cv shaft adapters on my 77 280z ? Can't find turbo axles but I found the ends that bolt to the wheel side
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Companion flanges from checkered flag. , axles can be shortened and made using your q45 cv shafts plus another set ...everything is very expensive , good luck , I'm just going to beef up my stock r200 drivetrain and hope it holds
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I broke one once , my car was manual for most of its life ...switched to automatic and put some street legal slicks and it broke a shaft first time I took it out , I think having a manual beats them up ,after I replaced them both I never broke one again and I'm still using the hoosier QuickTime Pro's and I'm running a 14:1 long rod 383 stroker motor now
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I had to run a fuel cell to fit dual 3" exhaust with flow masters on my car
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Best Diff gear ratio for SBC - 700r4 ?
Ylo73z replied to melfice_mx's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
I'm looming for a r200 with 4.11s let me know if you want to sell those once you change gears -
Mine is all stock suspension with hoosier quick time pros ...it's a DOT approved street slick ...15x26x9.5 I believe ...hooks pretty good with those
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