V-Fib

I've got an E88 that is just collecting dust in my shop - I've sent you a PM. Let me know if you're interested.

I dig the type "Zero" paint scheme, very cool. Flat white with a fighter paint scheme looks very nice as well.

I'm progressing quite well. My phone died of a rather violent and premature death - all my photos went with it. I'll make an update as soon as I get more pictures.

Ditto. If I still lived in Harlem - I would have been more than happy to help.

Very nice - thank you for the information.

This may sound silly/outlandish but how about a crowd funding campaign to garner a much larger audience, fund initial R&D/prototyping and in turn offset the cost of each final unit? I am pretty sure that by reaching out to people in said manner would probably be on a more national/global scale. Given that OS Giken is sold out before they start a production run I'm sure a unit for a fraction of the cost would get people's attention. I fall into the category of interest but don't have 8K burning a hole in my pocket. If it was in the less realistic realm of $3-5 then mere mortals such as myself would be more interested. Just my opinion.

Is it going to be adjustable or fixed? I'm interested in seeing how this turns out.

Awesome, thanks. LMK if you decide to offload your current transmission.

Good to know, I appreciate the info. From what I understand you can't use acid based primer with Picklex due to adhesion issues. What kind of primer did you end up using? I'm looking to do epoxy primer over the treated metal.

The link is broken for me - leads to a page not found error I may be interested granted it isn't cost prohibitive, as I'm about to sink a boat load into my project doing body and paint work. Let me know what you are asking if you end up parting with it.

I know a company called Planted Technology makes a universal seat bracket that fits most aftermarket seats which may save you the trouble of fabricating or modifying - may be worth looking into. As far as fitment into a S30Z I have no experience.

Is there a write up out there on the KA transmission swap?

Nice foundation for a restoration - I saw this car on CL a few weeks back. The shell seemed pretty viable, I remember the guy was asking a little much for a disassembled roller. So I hope you got a screaming deal out of him. It's funny to see cars from the local classifieds surface on this site weeks after they've been advertised. Welcome and good luck with your build.

So an update is in order. The car has now been stripped to the unibody with only the rear differential/suspension left attached as I finish up my rotisserie. The rotisserie has had new 3 metric ton hydraulics mounted on it with custom mounts fabricated to fit the front bumper and rear tow loop locations of the S30. Only thing is one of the stands has rusted itself shut and will need to be re-fabricated. The floor-pan, transmission tunnel and trunk sound deadening material has been stripped away using the dry ice method. The transmission tunnel walls put up a bit of a fight due to them being vertical. Surface rust and scale has been wire wheel away revealing (relatively) mint floor pans with only mild to moderate pitting and absolutely no rust through. In my opinion nothing that some phosphoric acid followed by Master Series Silver primer won't fix. If I find that the underside is harboring some severe pitting then I may patch panel it - otherwise just chemical treatment. Plans are to get it up in the air by next week and send it to be blasted in a month or two.

Wanted to make a post about this metal prep solution to see if anyone has used Picklex 20 during their restoration and how it worked out. I am looking to treat some minor pitting and surface rust prior to priming and filling as well as protect portions of bare metalwork before the car goes to the blaster. They also say that it does not "etch" the metal but creates a paintable surface - to me it raises concerns about adhesion of the primer coat. Can anyone attest to it's robustness and longevity?

Usually the oil pressure should hang around 35 - 70 psi. My car is stripped to the shell and sitting on jack stands. Getting prepared for paint removal and rust repairs. I'll pull the gauges from the dash some time this upcoming weekend and set them aside.

Ha! I saw this car on CL some time ago. Congrats on the purchase looks like it's fairly complete. I'm in the process of tearing down my 280z for a ground up restoration - it's a pretty involved process. If you don't have the means or the cash I'd fix the screaming issues and drive it until you can do a more complete restoration. I'd buy a Costco carport awning for a few hundred bucks to keep it out of the rain - I was going to go that route until I rented a garage space. Also if you want some of my guages I'm willing to part with them free of charge - I'm not keeping it original

I know you dropped and repainted the outside of the fuel tank early on in your build but did you de-rust the inside? If it's bad this may happen again. Just a thought.

I guess I'll just have to be careful. My floor pans and transmission tunnel are pretty solid. Thank you all for the info. Does anybody have any insight as to which method of mounting the rear on a rotisserie works best? I've seen the bumper shocks and the tow loop mounting holes. Is one any better than the other?

Not a whole lot of progress this weekend mostly just logistics. I got a used rotisserie from a local on Craigslist it's a little rusty and one of the rams needs replacement but as soon as I get mounts fabricated up and finish gutting the interior I will be putting the car up in the air so I can get the remainder of the prep work done. On a slightly different note I saw this Z in the neighborhood - I have to say I like the ratsun look and those wheels. Wonder if it belongs to someone on here...

This car looks amazing - it reminds me of the Rauh-Welt Porsche. Very well executed on a S30.

I've been a little skeptical about the whole dry ice deal because all the videos and guides I've seen involved a guy beating it with a hammer. Is there a more subtle way to go about doing that?

Very impressive build! Gives me the motivation to keep working on my rusty tub. lol

Is there a reason you'd transplant roof skins versus cutting a sheet metal piece and welding it where the glass was? Just for educational purposes...

I'm pretty ambitious about getting it done - however long it takes. Plus I've already invested so much time and money giving up is not really an option. lol It's a 1977.