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h4nsm0l3m4n

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Everything posted by h4nsm0l3m4n

  1. I run S12Ws on the front and 280zx rear calipers. I've tried a couple combinations with varying results. I used this with an adjustable proportioning valve fully open and a 15/16 master cylinder. All of them dust a bit but thats fine for me. I havent heard any of them produce much/any noise. These are all more aggressive "street" pads. In my opinion these are actually harder to figure out because there is less information available from manufacturers and some pads work better than others for regular everyday driving. Pretty much none of the below pads would work well from real road race applications. Finding an optimal autox setup is what I'm going for here. If youre interested in running real road racing brake pads I would recommend Carbotech or Hawk. Both have a lot of compounds to choose from so by talking with them and some trial and error you should be able to get a setup that works well. We run Carbotech XP10s on our RX7 chumpcar, the brakes are awesome and have been bulletproof so far. Front - Hawk HPS, Rear - Hawk HPS As you would expect, pretty heavily front bias Front - Hawk HPS, Rear - Hawk HP+ This was interesting. Dead cold this felt really good, however once up to temp the HP+ pads have so much initial bite that the rears would lock up really quickly. It was difficult to modulate the brakes to prevent lock up. Front - Hawk HPS, Rear - Axxis ULT My compromise setup. Internet reports ULTs having a bit more bite than the HPS. The front bias has returned but may be a little less pronounced. ULTs are also a ceramic pad so are a little more heat resistant than the HPS. Could be useful for some of the high speed autox events I attend. Things I'd like to try: Front - Axxis ULT, Rear - Hawk HP+ The HP+ pads are still probably to aggressive relative to the ULTs but may be worth a try. I actually have the pads to do this but have not bothered yet. Carbotech AX6s are supposed to be a good pad too but I havent tried them. Redesign my brake brackets to use NA z31 rear rotors (instead of 280zx) and 280zx rear calipers These rotors have a bit more diameter which would increase braking torque by quite a bit. It could really help with getting the most out of our 280zx rear calipers and could really improve brake bias.
  2. Try looking at old Japanese pick up trucks. I got mine out of a 720. I think they're in the engine bay too. Made for such easy pickings I picked up like 2 more for some friends.
  3. This may sound harsh and contrary to what most people think but I'm honestly surprised that people have an expectation that aftermarket parts for cars are supposed to work out any issues whatsoever. Regardless of whether they're built in China, or the US these parts are not necessarily designed by engineers. They arent built on a precision assembly line. They dont go through any kind of qualification process. There really isnt anything to guarantee the manufacturing quality or part design is acceptable short or long term, were all just hoping this is the case. The reality is these are custom parts, built in very low production volumes, by many people/companies all whose quality standards are subject to each individual/company. I've had issues with just about every aftermarket part I've bought on my car. They all worked in the end but theres always some issue with fit, performance, or design in general. I think when we buy non-OEM parts we take on some bit of risk, when something doesnt work it really sucks but its part of the game.
  4. That was me. This setup worked without any issues for over a year of driving/autocross. I wanted to run the Bosch 044 pump instead of the walbro so I switched to the surge tank below. It works well too. http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-injection-solutions-fuel-pumps-fully-enclosed-fp34-044-fuel-surge-tank-p-21527.html
  5. I'm with you - F trailers. Although you need a roof rack to do it right. Gotta leave the passenger seat for bros or ladyfriends Did you post your cam specs anywhere? It sounds pretty aggressive. Considering possibly doing a mild-medium cam, long tubes, ls6 intake over the winter and could use some info.
  6. Electric assist power steering sounds great! I'd be cool to see a video of it working! With 15x10 slicks it gets pretty crazy trying to do tight turns while autocrossing. I was really bummed out when I realized in order to run the subaru power steering I'd have to change all of the engine mounts. Electric power steering is probably a much more versatile solution since it could work with almost any engine configuration. I dont want to be rude but my only complaint would be that $1500 seems like a lot to pay. I know many new cars have this kind of power steering, would it be possible to repurpose one of these systems to use in our cars? I've read Del Long's DM autox "jeep" uses electric assist power steering out of a toyota yaris. You could probably pick up the steering column and power steering computer for pretty cheap at the junkyard. The system is probably mostly self contained so wiring should not be too crazy. The main challenge would be to mount the steering column and attaching the system to the stock steering shaft but an adapter to bolt to the steering coupler or (as in the OPs kit) attach to the splines should not be too crazy to come up with. Of course at this point maybe $1500 doesnt sound so bad for a bolt in solution...
  7. Maybe I'm just careless but I'd definitely go for the urethane. I've nudged enough parking blocks and scraped on enough oddly sloped driveways to easily justify its purchase over the fiberglass. I've hit some autocross cones pretty hard as well. As far as front plate - I prefer long zip ties, the white ones are pretty hard to see from a distance...
  8. I dont recall hearing if anyone has tried thay though they may work. The calipers on the s130 and the s13 are very similar in design. Also, the rotors are nearly identical on both cars. What may be different between them which might make it harder for you is the caliper hanger/bracket. If these arent the same it may not be possible to mount the caliper. Used s13 rear brakes arent too hard to find, give them a try and post here what you find. Id be very interested in seeing the differences.
  9. Thanks for the reply, very interesting. If my understanding here is right, even if there is a swirl pot in the return line pickup the fuel should still come out of the line when I open it up right? If thats the case then I guess something is clogged up and a good tank cleaning is in order. This is strange because my fuel has always been pretty clean and I've never had issues with this before. Oh well
  10. I was working on redoing some of my fuel pump/surge tank system when I found something wierd. The fitting on the left side of the tank is acting normally - soon as I take off the line fuel comes rushing out. When I do the same for the right side fitting, nothing happens. I know its possible that the pick up tube on the other end is all clogged up with something but I'm trying to make sure I'm not missing something before I put the car back together. Is there no check valve or other device keeping fuel from coming out of the tank through the return line? I started looking into it a little more and another thing I noticed was that my tank did NOT match the tank in the FSM (below). My car is a 74.5 (12/74 build date) so I'm used to it having bits and pieces off the 75 model year car. I found a picture of the 75 fuel tank (below) and visually it seems to match up with the tank I have. My question here is what is the thing inside the tank on the return line? It looks like the tank outlet is a pick up tube, but the return line tube runs farther inward and down into a cup looking thing. What is that for? Would it have any impact on my earlier question? These might be trivial/stupid questions, especially since I havent had any issues with the fuel tank previously. I'd like to avoid unnecessarily dropping the tank but at the same time I dont want to just put it back together without understanding what is going on.
  11. I'm looking for a 27 spline stub axle out of a 280z to replace the one that a shop somehow managed to bend when they pressed my new wheel bearings on. Must be in usable shape (threads not completely chewed up and flange not bent). I only need 1 but will buy two if required and I need it pretty quick... Let me know. Thanks!
  12. It seems like all the tick performance fix is a using an overly large master cylinder and allow you to adjust the pedal to where it engages the clutch at all speeds. Going off this idea, what master cylinder size have you been using? Have you considered bumping up a bore size or 2? This should be relatively painless to install since they just bolt right in and are pretty cheap. Once you are moving more fluid you may have more success in adjusting the clutch pedal to work at all speeds. What this fix doesnt seem to address is the problem of dust getting into your clutch fluid. Instead it covers it up and makes it a less visible issue. I dont have the expertize to say whether this would an problem long term or not but I imagine frequent bleeding would probably still be advisable since your fluid will continue to be contaminated by the high rpm shifting.
  13. The brake warning switch turns on when one of the two brake circuits pressure is a lot lower than the other one (ie failed). I believe the mechanism inside will close off the lower pressured circuit so you do not loose full system pressure and retain some brake usage.. I had this happen to me when I did my rear disc upgrade. A lot of fluid had drained out of my rear brake lines. However, I could not get sufficient new fluid back in because the switch would close off the rear circuit when I would pump the pedal. What I ended up doing is first thoroughly bleeding the master cylinder. Then opened up all the calipers and let the system gravity bleed itself for a good while. This got sufficient fluid past the switch that both circuits would pressurize evenly enough not to trip the switch when I would pump the pedal. I could then proceed to bleed the brakes normally.
  14. Thanks! Roof rack is for the race tires, just too lazy to take it off. I can fit 2 up top, 2 in the trunk and still have room for a box of tools, a jack, and a co-driver/friend if I want company
  15. Another Z with rota RBs off the group buy - 9.5 all around, hyper black, 255/40 tires, ebay ZG flares.
  16. The Kirkeys dont look anything special. They are actually really tall seats so depending on how you mount them may touch the plastic trim that goes across the back of the roof and around the dome light.. Regarding seat position. When I designed my mounts I was very nervous of seat height so I made multiple bolt patterns for the seats at various heights on the mount. This turned out to be mostly useless as I mounted the seat as low as possible and left it there. What I hadn't realized was, as Jon pointed out, that the stock seat mounts are not horizontal. With the 18 degree layback built into the Kirkey seat plus additional angle of the mounts it makes the seat tilt back quite a bit. If I were to design new brackets I would mount the seat as low as possible and make the angle of the seat adjustable instead of height. I think this would allow me to get a more comfortable seating positon and allow the seat to be much more accommodating for other drivers.
  17. I actually did have some luck but it didnt end up as I originally expected. I looked around quite a bit at various seats and just couldnt find something that I would be happy with. I decided my final solution would be some Kirkey aluminum race seats. These are pretty cheap, seat you about as low as physically possible, and are very light. When choosing the seat I was pretty picky. I did not like the Kirkey Layback seats because the huge side bolsters looked painful to get into for a street car. The road racing seats looked good but were more expensive and I've never liked the shoulder wings. The Drag seats looked like they would be comfortable and cheap, but still had good leg/hip bolsters to keep me from moving around. I chose the Pro Street Drag seats as they looked more ergonomic than the cheaper Economy Drag seats. I designed some brackets (with additional holes so I can mount the seat higher if I wanted to) to mount the seats to the stock Z slide rails so the seats were bolted right in. I've driven and raced in the Kirkeys quite a bit and am very happy. I have plenty of head room and feel like I'm sitting in a much better position overall. The seats are also pretty comfortable (2+ hour drives, no problem) and hold me pretty well when I race. I plan to add additional foam around the chest/rib level and lumbar support to fit me even better. For the passenger, I kept those original knock-off seats. These were more accommodating for people of many different sizes and were an upgrade from stock Z seats. Plus I didnt care if they hit their head on the roof with their helmet
  18. This is very interesting. I wanted to change to s12+8 calipers for a while now but pad selection was poorer compared to pads for s12Ws. How much lower do the holes have to be drilled? Do you have any pictures of the pad modifications you had to do?
  19. Making the power that you do the car will be very hard to drive. The LSD is going to make a huge difference in predictability at the limit. Lack of power steering really sucks for autocross and makes the car more difficult to drive at low speeds. My club has lately done courses with back to back 180 degree turns very close together. I really envy how the modern cars can whip around their wheels to do these kinds of turns.
  20. Very cool. I looked for the longest time to try to find 16" wheels I could get new barrels for. At the time decent street tires were only really offered in 1 size - 225/50-16. In the end I scrapped the whole thing and when to 17s because tire selection was so poor. Luckily, Bridgestone just started finally making RE-11s in 245/45-16 size. These are an awesome tire! For slight stretch maybe go with 225/50-16s front and 245/45-16s rear.
  21. The Z32 calipers are of a quite different design from 240sx. Also the rotors on the z32 are different from the 240sx (different diameter and vented design). Because of this I would say that it wouldnt work without a bit of screwing around to make it work. At that point youre just better off fabricating your own brake brackets. Z32 brakes also have a drum e-brake setup. I think it will be very difficult to get these to work on a Z. Maybe. If youre using the typical brackets used with a 280zx setup it wont work. The rotor is too large to fit. Fitting the 280zx calipers on the MM 240sx brackets MAY work but I have not seen it done so I cant say for sure. Easiest option is the s12+8 calipers. They would probably balance out the brake bias a bit better. However, S12W calipers can take Z32 brake pads without hardly any modification. It works out really nice since there is plenty of aftermarket compounds available. I'm pretty sure S12+8 and S12W use different pads so this will not be the case. As such brake pad selection may be a bit more limited with s12+8 calipers. You can also modify the strut assembly to accept 280zx front calipers. This is not a bolt on procedure so its not as easy. The brake bias issue is not something insurmountable. I run s12W calipers up front, 280zx calipers in rear and feel like I was able to get pretty good brake bias. I had to try a couple different brake pad compounds but eventually found something I felt was a good compromise. It was just a matter of experimentation.
  22. I bought a set of MSA ones and and was not happy at all with the quality of fit. I decided to try these next: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZG-Flares-/221043388264?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3377366f68&vxp=mtr A couple people on here have used them with good results and the seller has very positive reviews. They should be coming in on monday so I can post up my impressions once I recieve them if you like.
  23. I used 70 amp fuse and relays with a taurus fan. bullet proof and crazy good cooling.
  24. If your primary application is street then pretty much any "extreme performance" summer tire (hankook RS3s, dunlop star specs, kumho XSs, etc.) will do you just fine. Theyre great in the dry, reasonable in the wet (some better than others), and should last longer than r-comps.
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