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Still looking...

Just wanted to verify that the price hasn't changed ($45 shipped).

If shipping parts from the US is not an option for you I think the easiest route for you would be to find a set of 240z struts. These will have the 2" OD that will usually fit a lot of coilover kits. Then you can install them similarly to the s13 coilover thread. The rear strut towers on the 280z are slightly taller so be careful with your measurements so you weld them in the right place. The other option, you mentioned in your original post is having the threaded adapter tube fabricated for you. Talk to an experienced fabricator or machine shop about what you'd like to do. You will likely need to buy the coilovers first and bring them in so they can determine the thread size and pitch. The last option is a ground control-like coilover setup - buy a set of shock cartridges, section your strut tubes accordingly, weld a threaded collar of correct ID onto the strut tube and install springs. With all these options youll have to figure out some sort of camber plate. The s13 camber plates will probably not be able to be fitted on to the Z strut towers. You'll have to order some, make your own, or reuse the original Z top mounts somehow. I would say either way its a lot of work no matter how you do it so read as much as you can. There is a lot of information on here about coilovers and a lot of the issues have been figured out.

I'll keep an eye on it, thanks!

I know this is a long shot but I am interested in buying a r200 lsd differential out of a z31 turbo. Willing to pay good money and will cover shipping. Please let me know if someone out there has got one.

I salute you sir, its good to see the college student tradition (volunteering your time for free food) living strong. My last term or two it seemed like everyone would just be on the phone saying, "hey mom, can you transfer me some more money? Me and the guys want to go out to eat and get us some beers... 500 should do." I remember my first year or so I'd hit up as many volunteering opportunities I could as long as they gave food. Surveys for research put on by various departments were awesome too - answer some questions and get free lunch. I took it to the extreme for fun sometimes where I'd hang around the big food court/cafeteria on campus and ask cute thin girls if they were done eating and ask if theyd like me to take their plate. They thought I was being a gentleman and swoon, in fact I was just after their half finished frys and veggieburgers...

It looks just like the one sold by Arizona Z car. Hard mounting the diff does fix the clunk, but may cause other problems some of which are the reason people go with the RT diff mount. There is lots of info on this topic on the board.

I believe the fluid will drain out of the end of the bleeder nipple, and yes probably drain down into the bell housing... If you can disconnect the transmission from the motor I could highly recommend you installing one of these: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/T56-Release-Bearing-Remote-Bleeder,41385.html It screws into the bleeder screw opening and makes clutch bleeding really easy.

I've been having a hard time getting my brakes working at 100% again. My car has been running 83 280zx rear calipers and rotors for 2 years now without incident. However, I recently discovered that one of the calipers (on the drivers side) was leaking. I bought a reman unit from autozone but found that the brake line inlet thread was the wrong size! It was tapped for 3/8-24... I returned it and bought another set from a different store. This one was a reman from Wagner. I installed it just fine but when I went to bleed it fluid would come gushing straight out the bolt for the emergency cable. I returned that one and bought a third caliper from A1 Cardone. This one installed bled well initially. However after a few days I noticed that if I would drove the car a sizable distance without pumping the brakes the first pump would basically go right to the floor. Checking the caliper I noticed some moisture on the lower half of the caliper, I'm suspecting a leaking piston. With my back story stated I have to say I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to do. Am I doing something wrong when I install them or is it normal to get crappy calipers when you go to buy a rebuild? Is one brands of reman calipers that are "better" than the rest? I can keep buying and returning these calipers but I'd like to get this right and for headache to be over.

3000 for a 77k mile LS1, t56, harness and computer from a junkyard. I found it on car-part.com

For the pump youd need 10x1.0 mm to 3/8" hose nipples, I dont think the picture there is correct. I bought this nice kit from DIYautotune for the fittings, etc. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/walbro-gsl392-full-installation-kit-400939-p-313.html For the fuel fittings, I did not clamp the hose over a straight fuel line. I single flared the end of it using a tube flaring tool, slipped on the hose (it was very tight fit over the flare) and tightened using the hose clamps.

If I understand your pictures correctly, you received the wrong tranny mount. The 280z bodies (and late 260z bodies) have slightly different floors and frame rails. The tranny mount you have is for a 240z which bolts up through the floor of the car. The later 280z mount has flanges on the side which bolt to the frame frails horizontally like this: (pic off of www.4moores.com) With this style mount you shouldnt have any clearance issues. If this is the case get a hold of John and have him send you the correct part in exchange. As far as the "fuel dampener" I'm afraid I cant help you much. My car used carbs so I did not have most of the fuel injection stuff yours probably does. I also had to run a surge tank since I had an unbaffled tank and plan to race the car. If I had to guess I'd say you can remove most/all of the fuel related components and run your own stuff without too much worry (thats what pretty much everyone I've seen does). My napa filter is indeed between the pump and the tank, the corvette FPR is also a secondary fuel filter. I'm afraid I'm not certain about corvette fuel rail covers since I personally dont run them. I think youd probably have to modify the passenger side cover to allow the fuel fitting to fit but you may be able to tuck it underneath and run the line out the back. Please post what you end up doing for this since I hope to add fuel rail covers sometime soon...

I had similar plans with my car and weighted the same options. If youre going with the "simple, clean engine bay look" but only plan on running a stock LS engine I wouldn't bother with the more expensive aeromotive stuff and fancy fittings. Here is what I recommend doing: -Flip the fuel rail so the inlet is on the passenger side. Since the stock lines run on the passenger side of the car this keeps you from having more hoses or lines in the engine bay. -Mount the walbro 255 lph pump in or near the stock location and the corvette FPR (ac delco number gf822) in the rear of the car. Putting the FPR in the rear lets you run only 1 fuel line up to the engine. -When I did it I took off my stock fuel lines and bought a length 3/8 fuel line. I carefully hand bent the 3/8 line, taking measurements to make sure it was a close match for my hard lines except for one difference. Instead of following how the stock lines run once they are in the engine bay I simply bent the line straight up so it ran up the firewall. You can see it here (its the thick fuel line that just kind of stops at the battery tray area): Alternatively you can use the 280z main fuel line (I believe its 5/16, I remember reading it should be juuust enough to feed a stock LS1). -The rest is easy. I used a 90 degree quick connect fitting (dorman #800-059) to go from the fuel rail to the 3/8 line and used more dorman quick connect fittings on the FPR (#800-155 fuel rail outlet, #800-121 3/8 inlet, #800-120 5/16 outlet). I used standard 3/8" and 5/16" fuel injection hose and fuel injection hose clamps where appropriate for connecting everything together. For a fuel filter I just went to napa and asked for one with 3/8" ports that was good for fuel injection pressures. This setup seems to hold pressure and give the engine plenty of fuel. Everything works great, the fuel system has been flawless so far with 1000+ miles on the swap. What was nice too was that everything was very cheap and can be found at pretty much any auto parts store if I ever have to replace anything. It also keeps more "stuff" out of the engine bay.

I have encountered a problem that I cannot find much information on. I have 1983 280zx disc brakes on my car and I found that one of the calipers was leaking. I bought a pair of reman calipers quickly installed them in place. However, when I began to bleed the brakes I found that fluid would start to leak out from the emergency brake cam bolt. To describe it in more detail, this is the bolt onto which fits the spring for the emergency brake lever, and a large 18mm nut holds the whole assembly in place. I imagine the correct course of action would be to return the caliper and try my luck again but I thought I'd ask if anyone has ever experienced this problem. Anyone have any advice? Maybe I'm missing something obvious...

I thought I'd post a quick wrap up of the swap now that its all done and running. Exhaust work was completed the week of Thanksgiving. I have 2.5" pipes running into a 2.5"-3" y pipe, 3" glasspack and a magnaflow muffler. It sounds great, has a nice rumble but no harshness or drone. After that it took about a week to get everything else sorted out. Heres some pics of if "finished" I've been driving it every day since, already put about 1000 miles on it. Runs great, good gas mileage (20+ combined at least), and is very reliable. I gave myself a little present for the holidays and took it to Portland Speed Industries for a little dyno tuning. Got some nice results(blue is was the before tune, red is the current tune): And a video: http://vimeo.com/18403958 All thats left now is to do everything else

Looking back in my notes I believe the MC I used was #75-875U. I am using it with the original LS1 clutch and it seems to work fine. I'm no expert but both those parts have the same bore and stroke so the amount of fluid displaced in the end should be the same. I think you could use either one...

Are you building a custom dash? I think 3 3/8 speedo and tach gauges would look very small in the stock gauge pods. I used the 5" Autometer Ultralites, they fit perfect. I'm using the stock gauges for the rest until I save up a little more money and figure out what I'd like to do with the dash.

If you dont mind, what size wheels/tires and what alignment specs are you running. I'm trying to get a good baseline for an LS1 z car from which I can adjust to my own preferences. Also, if you go OBX please post your results. I'm weighing buying quaife myself but am still having a hard time dropping that much money on it.

I was planning on posting this in a different thread but I guess here is also applicable. I kept a spreadsheet on all major purchases when I was doing my LS1 swap. Although I opted to do my brakes and some paint work while I was at it I kept track of those costs elsewhere. So here it is, sorry I didnt format it at all but I think its not to horrible to read.. LS1 Swap Price Item Source Qty Sub Total 2000 F-Body LS1, T56, ECU, Harness Parts Car 1 $2,000 295 LS1 Mount & Documentation JCI 1 $295 135 T56 280z Mount JCI 1 $135 235 LS1 Driveshaft JCI 1 $235 85 LS1 Hoses and Fittings JCI 1 $85 495 Ceramic Coated Headers 1-3/4" JTR 1 $495 75 LS1 Ducting Kit JTR 1 $75 33 Radiator Steam Vent JTR 1 $33 30 Napa Belt #060547 Napa 1 $30 55 GF822 fuel pressure regulator #3737 Napa 1 $55 45 '05 Pontiac GTO 90 Degree Spark Plug Wires Napa 1 $45 24 Goodyear Pulley #49003 Napa 1 $24 40 '00 Camaro LS1 O2 Sensor RockAuto 2 $80 27 '01 Mustang GT Back Up Light Switch RockAuto 1 $27 100 3/8 hard fuel lines and 3/8, 5/16 fuel injection rubber hoses Napa 1 $100 1075 Exhaust Custom 1 $1,075 40 Taurus 3.8L Fan Junkyard 1 $40 450 Standalone Harness w/ ECU chevythunder_ls1 1 $450 13 Dorman QC - 3/8 hose 90 deg fitting #800-059 Summit Racing 1 $13 15 Dorman 3/8 tube - QC fitting #800-155 Summit Racing 1 $15 7 Dorman QC - 3/8" hose fitting #800-120 Summit Racing 1 $7 7 Dorman QC - 5/16" hose fitting #800-120 Summit Racing 1 $7 216 5" Ultra-Lite Autometer Speedometer Summit Racing 1 $216 156 5" Ultra-Lite Autometer Tachometer Summit Racing 1 $156 22 Russell clutch adapter fitting #640281 Summit Racing 1 $22 30 Russell 48" SS Clutch Line #658190 Summit Racing 1 $30 105 7/8" Tilton Clutch Master Cylinder #75-875U Summit Racing 1 $105 126 Walbro 255 lph fuel pump Summit Racing 1 $126 62 Lokar throttle cable #TC-1000LS148 Summit Racing 1 $62 80 Summit Low Pressure Fuel Pump Summit Racing 1 $80 55 Fuel Accumulator (surge tank) #11-50111 BC Broncos 1 $55 15 Walbro pump installation kit #400-939 DIYAutotune 1 $15 30 T56 clutch slave remote bleeder kit #5151399 Speedway Motors 1 $30 200 Racing Oil Pan Baffle Improved Racing 1 $200 Total: $6,418 This table is mostly for reference purposes, I believe this gives a good baseline for how much it would cost to put a ready to swap LS1 into your car. As such, it is important to note that any missing or broken sensors (mine were all fine) and are not factored into this table. Any engine work is also not factored into this table (I did not perform any). Parts bought at the junkyard or made custom are obviously greatly subject to each individual buying them. All the parts in this table are readily available so anybody should be able to get them, I did not use any obscure or rare parts for my swap. Prices are current as of September 2010 and are rounded up to the next dollar. Price of the motor/tranny varies so much depending on what you get so do not assume you will get an LS1 for the same price as I did. I've talked to a couple people already about potentially helping them swap an LS1 into their own car and showed them this table to give an idea of the minimum price something like this would cost.

During my searching I discovered that people tend to use the GMC Syclone IAT sensors for this purpose. It threads into a 3/8 NPT bung which should be easy to get and weld in. In fact that sensor in your picture looks very similar...

I have not had anything powdercoated for my own car but we order a lot of powdercoating done on various prototype parts where I work. This is definitely excellent advice. A custom/rare color will cost you a lot more. We always order the same gray they've been stocking for years, turns out great every time. Check with the shop you plan to use, talk to them about what colors they have in stock right then. You can still get some decent colors without having to pay extra.

I've been using the JTR radiator for over 2 years (I bought it used from a guy on this forum). This includes a lot of racing, especially autocross where the car gets pretty hot from sitting a long time in the pits. Now I've been driving it with the LS1 swap. I have the stock fan temp settings so my engine runs fairly hot. So far I've had zero problems or leaks. From what I've seen on here lots of other people have used them too. Though I dont know how many of them have problems can they be that horrible if they get recommended again and again? As far as plastic vs aluminum end tanks, I'm pretty sure OEMs use plastic end tanks in a lot of cars and trucks since they are bit cheaper to manufacture.. Some leak, some dont, but they cant be THAT bad otherwise they just wouldn't be used at all. After all quite a few have lasted 100000+ miles including sitting in traffic on the hottest summer days. I guess if the prices are that similar for an aftermarket radiator I dont see any reason to go with plastic end tanks. With aluminum end tanks I'd worry about the welds cracking from fatigue. Just make sure to rubber mount it, the less stress you put on the radiator the less likely you are to crack it. That being said if youre interested in going for 600+ hp I would think you have 2 options. More straight-forward option would be to put some money into it and build the cooling system to match your power goals. The other option is to buy a used JTR, or other radiator, that you are know will work with the LS1 now. You can get the swap running and iron out any other issues that come up. Then whenever you plan on going to 600+ hp build up the whole system accordingly. This would be cheaper now, but more expensive in the long run.

Here is a list of differences between F-Bodys over the 98-02 years: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27515 I'm not the most knowledgeable on LS1 motors but I believe 01 and 02 are the most desirable of the F-Body LS1s. This is because they came with LS6 intake and clutch. I guess if you already intend to change the intake and clutch you probably wouldnt care. Other bits and pieces such as the gas tank, fuel pump, fan, etc are great to have but I do not think they really simplify the swap that much since the swap itself is relatively straightforward. I bought the pumps, fans, etc separately and used the stock tank. Getting those parts did not slow me down or make the swap any harder. Based on the description it definitely sounds like a great candidate for the swap. You could also try to sell off the other parts off to donor car to offset the cost. I dont know about Camaros but black leather interior pieces are generally desirable for people looking to put them in their cars. Also undamaged front end parts, fenders, lights, etc are generally desirable as well I think. The LS motor/trans packages from what I've seen seem to list for 3-6000+ on ebay so use that as a starting point.

Pete, I used Z32 brake pads with my 4x4 vented brake setup. Pad selection is pretty extensive and they mounted to the caliper just fine. There were some interference issues between the pad backing plate and rotors though. I clearanced them a little bit with a grinder and got them to fit well. Maybe that's a cheaper option for you.

I used this surge tank from bcbroncos.com http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=131_108&products_id=1355 Its pretty cheap and has pretty much everything you need. The fuel filter at the bottom acts as the reservoir and a pickup tube that extends down for the high pressure fuel outlet. The metal housing has NPT ports for 3/8 and 5/16 lines and also includes a mounting flange with bolt holes. I'm not sure what your options are but I was easily able to package this, the low pressure, and the high pressure pump all in the back near the stock locations. If the 1/2 qt is too small they have a larger 1 qt filter reservoir as well. Cant attest to how great it works since my car's been running a week but I havent had any problems yet. I'll be testing the car to verify its all as it should be very soon.