richie2619

Although GM small blocks have similar displacement to the modern Hemi, their valve configuration is in-line with the length of the block. The Hemi, however, has the valve placement, perpendicular to the block. This results in considerably greater width. You should take some time and measure everything very carefully. There's a strong possibility that it won't fit between the shock towers. Older mustangs, 65-70, that have 4-valve V-8 engines, usually have the shock towers removed and employ mustang II IFS. It absolutely can be done but it may take a fair amount of fab work.

Premium fuel is a waste of money on a low compression engine. Higher octane only raises the flash point to help prevent detonation in high compression applications 10.5:1 or higher. I think the 78 was 8.5:1. The lower octane also helps prevent hard starts because it ignites more easily. Premium fuel being (better), is a misnomer. It's only better for High compression engines.

Before I swapped to the V8, My '78 was getting a consistent 23MPG on a 225,000 mile engine. Ironically, it got about the same with the 8, if I could keep the back half of the carb closed. Someone mentioned the possibility of the injectors having inconsistent flow due to carbon deposits. You may need to check the spring tension of the air flow meter. I've heard of people trying to richen up the fuel by altering the spring.

I'm saving this one. Getting ready to order my coilovers! Thank you very much!

I used the stock Z28 clutch and it's great. You're not having to move near the weight. And truth be told, I'd rather have the clutch "give" a little than to shock the rest of the drive train!

Sheesh!

Hang a plumb bob off each side of the tank. My '78 measured 38" And I didn't have to pull the tank!

Yeah, I crawled up under my car last night and was thinking about making some tabs. I guess it's pretty rare for the originals to be intact. I've been very lucky to have a Z that's never been wrecked and had virtually no rot!

Great stuff! Thanks for the link

I put the ST kit on my 280. 1 1/8" up front and 3/4" out back. The car stays incredibly flat in hard cornering!

I put the ST kit on my 280. 1 1/8" up front and 3/4" out back. The car stays incredibly flat in hard cornering!

Pulling your control arms out isn't that big of a project. Think of the peace of mind of knowing it was done right. T3 control arms have an easily accessible mounting point, just like JHM stated.

Which ever year that has the thick, steel plate that encircles the caliper. I have those too.

I bought these custom aluminum caliper brackets from Jim Cook Racing, in '03, just before I parked my car. So I never got around to installing them. They're designed to convert the Z drums to '79-'83 ZX calipers. I'm wondering if anyone else has a set of these and if they're compatible with the '85-'88 Maxima calipers. I have a set of ZX calipers but the pads seem awfully puny. I realize the front brakes carry 75 to 85% of the load. I'm just trying to get some feedback from people who've been where I am now I've Googled Jim Cook but it appears that They're not around any more.

I think I'm gonna play it safe. There are so many done on 17x9.5's, it seems like there's a lot of good experience to draw from. There are RKRs on ebay,in gun metal and zero offset. One paycheck away from pulling the trigger!

:-/

Well, I did a little more digging. It seems that most wheel makers have someone bitching about cracked wheels. It also appears that the one's who are kicking Rota, are the ones who complain about them being a cheap Watanabe knock off. I'd like to hear from people who've had good experiences with Rota!

My budget is a bit too lean for genuine Watanabe wheels and the threads about Rotas cracking has me looking at other options. Centerline "billet series" wheels are a two piece rim with a welded center section. Because of this, they're able to tailor the offset on request. $285 each, makes this a pretty attractive deal. They use T-6061 aluminum alloy but I'm not too familiar with metallurgy. Can anyone tell me how strong theses wheels are? Here is an example of the one I'm interested in.

I understand the rear inners are steel and need to be welded after cutting. Up front, my car has plastic inners that are attached to the outers using clips. Thanks JMortensen, I'll look for that post. And thanks OldAndy, for the pics!

To anyone who's flared their fenders. On the front fenders, have you bonded the inner fender to the flare? Have you through-drilled the plastic and used the screws from the flares hold them in place? Or have you just done away with them? I'm very close to making a decision to cut my fenders or go with a wheel/tire combo that will fit in the stock configuration.

Anyone know the Texas law on having bumpers? I want to be rid of my giant crash bumpers but we have safety inspections every two or three years. Z-Store has 240Z fiberglass, (which would be nice). I'm just looking to see what experiences my Texas brothers and sisters have had.

If you get steel before I get to bangin on aluminum, I'm in!

I'd buy steel! I've been contemplating getting some sheet aluminum and hammering them the old school way.

The reviews I read that we're positive we're mostly about the 135. It was the 175 that was reviewed so horribly! I'm not sure why but it was very hard to find anyone that was reasonably satisfied with the larger model. Glad yours is working so well for you.

It's comforting to see that you went with the bolt in camber plates.I am, by no means a certified welder, however, I've welded enough to know that mating structural steel to sheet metal takes delicate balance. Heat too low and it won't penetrate the plate. Too hot and you'll fatigue the sheet metal. And the notion of all the weight of the corner, hanging on a perimeter weld just doesn't sit well with me. I decided to go with the GC plates myself!