Tank

Road videos will have to wait, battling the coolant system...can’t seem to get this thing completely bled. And, the rear end is making some noises that are concerning. One of which I think I know the issue. The right stub axle stud heads rub the diff housing on decel. It’s almost like the diff stub axle isn’t completely popped in place (obx helical lsd). Plus, the 3.9 is a little too much with cd009 transmission. I have a 3.5 I may build and swap. Just need to drive it more to make a decision. I’ve only put 60 miles on it!

Accidentally deleted so reposting. full interior vq35de with z1 lightweight flywheel and crank pulley 2574 lbs without me, near perfect 50/50 balance. And yes Leon, it does get better with me in it. All weights except right front get closer together. With me IN the car, there is a 90lb difference between the right front and left front. All other weights become closer. Yes corner balance would make it perfect but I’m good with where it ended up. The coilovers I have don’t allow to adjust ride height separate from preload so we just set the ride height and this is where it ended up. 270/270 at the wheels, that’s around 320 at the fly. A lot of fun to drive that’s for sure.

IMG_4903.MOV

And the results are in. 2574 lbs without me in it, near perfect 50/50 front/rear balance. 270 hp and 270 torque at the wheels. its nice and spicy on the street. Very well balanced car all around.

Going on the scales for corner balancing and the dyno on 5/1 at SOHO Motorsports outside of Charlotte, NC.

Awesome, that should be a lot of fun. I’m very happy with the Zfever harness service and support from Doug. It makes the swap very easy. One thing worth noting, to power the ecu from switched 12v, plan on running a 40 amp relay on a 20 amp fuse.

I completely regret having parts sandblasted. Then again, if the user isn’t an idiot, you should be fine. Ended up costing me a fortune because the hood, hatch, one door, and a quarter were warped from excessive heat.

IMG_2366.MOV

And to bring this back from the dead, this car is nearly done.......12 years after I started and got carried away with while I’m at it.

ME TOO!!!!! That’s funny, I built a house, have a 2.5 year old so I totally relate. My car is in the body shop now, I hope to have it back sometime in July so you should see my build finally take shape. Good luck!

Sorry I'm just now getting back to you. I have not seen much info on auto swaps but from what I understand, the ECU and BCM must be able to communicate with the trans module. So this would lead me to believe that they all need to be from an automatic car and not mix-matched from a manual and auto car. Give the guys at ZFever or RS Enthalpy call, those guys would definitely know the answer.

Onyx, when it comes to the vq, there are three options. 1- standalone engine management, not many doing that these days on regular motors because of options 2 and 3. 2- full wiring harness from the donar car, this includes the ecu, bcm, and lots of uneeded wiring. This requires an in depth process of picking through the wiring harnesses deleting what is not needed 3- reflash the ecu to work with no input from the bcm. This is what I have gone with. What option 3 does, is allows the engine to operate with only what it needs, using the stock engine harness. No other computers or wiring harnesses are needed. However you still need a few other components such as the accelerator pedal assembly and obd II plug. So essentially the suck bang blow process still happens with stock components. The ecu is reprogrammed to delete the NATS (Nissan anti-theft system) which allows it to operate the engine without input from anything else. And the wiring harness is modified to give you 4 wires to hook up to the chassis. Ignition, ground, fuel pump trigger, and power. That's the basics, but there are details such as grafting gauge sensors in the engine as the ecu will not send signals to gauges. This is easily solved with adapters, additional sensors, etc. For example I am running a splitter on the oil pressure plug to run the stock sensor for the ecu, and one for a gauge. Now wen it comes to a 5.3, or any LS for that matter, you have the same options and more. But it is still easiest to send the engine harness and ecu off to an expert to reprogram and prewire for a generic installation. Options are widely available and affordable being that it is 'merican. Hope that helps, let me know if you have more questions. There is a wealth of knowledge on this site covering pretty much everything including detailed write up on all of these options.

Yeah I'm still on it! Well, sort of, it has taken a back seat to the house which will be done around April/May. But I am very ready to start putting everything back together, can't wait to drive this car again! Nice job on the 350z column, that's awesome.

Small update, body work was going very slow, too slow in fact. I am currently building a new house and it is taking every free moment I have so the Z is getting the professional treatment. I'll have it back by the time I finish my house so this winter I will be putting it all back together...stay tuned folks.

Found and received. This can be closed. Thanks guys!

Is that from a 73? Reason I ask is because the 73 has the larger bumper brackets and i believe the center section had reliefs for this.

As stated, I am looking for a stock 73 240Z complete front 3 piece valance. I believe 71 and 72s are the same so that will work as well. Good condition is a plus. Thanks.

Sounds like the fuel pump has a constant power feed. This should be wired with a relay, the trigger being your ON wire. So when the key is turned to the ON position, the fuel pump turns on.

I have been doing some research as to what oil works well in the VQ35DE for my driving style (read: abuse). There are some fantastic used oil analysis (UOA) posted on my350z.com with some great reads about engine oil properties and how it affects wear. Here is the link http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/258663-vq-oil-analysis-and-info.html. I have decided to go with AmsOil 10w-30 and have my own analysis completed after everything is said and done. Also with regards to fluid, I am going with Redline MT-85 for the transmission. It is a 75w85 which is the weight and viscosity specified by Nissan and is a GL4. I have read that GL5 fluids are bad for the synchcros in a VQ manual transmission due to the sulfur additives. In other news with the project...body work, body work, body work.

^ Second that

Aerocatch hood latches installed. This is with a stock steel hood and the post had to be a little more inward than I wanted but they will be out of the way. I was able to weld them in 3 different places so they are plenty strong. Really they do not support the weight of the hood, they only keep it down. I also have a cowl induction fiberglass hood I will fit as well that came on the car when I bought it (over 15 years ago).

Astro- I'm not quite sure what the capacity of the tank is at this point. I will know when I fill it for the first time and I will pass that along. Thanks!

Small update: Got the fuel tank back and prepped for install. Overall very happy with the way it turned out. Also finished installing the lightweight flywheel and new clutch. Fuel and clutch lines run, just about ready to be reinstalled! And continuing on the body work, notice the mounts for the strut bar- more on this later.