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About mlwebb

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  1. re dampers: Performance Products makes a couple aftermarket ones, a stockish one, and a sfi spec 'racing' one, for a little over a bill or two, repectively. If your really going racing there is the BJH/Rebello damper, at roughly 5 bills.
  2. I don't think your at tdc on the compression stroke. I would suggest ignoring the distributor, and front of the engine. Pull all the plugs, plug #1 with your finger and crank it around until you feel pressure, then with a flashlight, and something non-marking, and combustable like a bamboo skewer, get the number one piston to the top of its stroke. #1 exhaust and intake valves will both be closed (or no pressure), and both lobes pointing up, ie 180deg from the contact with the rockers, which should both be loose (ie .006-.008 or so). Now see if your cam timing marks line up, and see what the top of the oil pump/dist drive looks like, and look at the front harmonic damper pulley to see if it has any marks that might be useful in the future. If your dist drive looks exactly like the manual pictures, your distributor should fit. If not then you need to pull and reinstall the oil pump. Michael
  3. I agree with TimZ, if that is TDC #1 on compression stroke, then your pump and cam timing are funny. Double check that you are at TDC #1 Are we talking about the same distributor all along here, the D612-53? If so, how was it secured before? Didn't get the electronic dist. reference. Keep in mind that these are old cars, mods may have been made. If my memory were better I might be of more help, as I ran into this when converting mine to electronic and I suspect that there might be a little oddness here with the D612-53 (rather than the 52,54). Perhaps someone who knows this stuff will happen along, otherwise I suggest googling your distributor and reading all you can. There are a few posts on other forums related to this. Michael
  4. I would be interested in a set of Rota TBT's in flat silver (: Michael
  5. I had this timing indicator issue too on my 260 block, ended up getting the other indicator - nice to know why, was a bit disconcerting at the time.(: Michael
  6. They look like the Appliance Mesh I have on my roadster. They were a popular dealer option.
  7. Hi folks, I hope you will consider my project car appropriate for discussion, as a 'reverse' Hybridz - it is an early 67 Datsun 1600 Roadster with a 240/260 L6 engine in it. I started it 17 years ago, never got it quite sorted, and it has been sitting for the last 8 years. (My former partner never liked the car, she had been in a few accidents, it was too small and fast). This past winter an unusual snow brought down the carport it was under, and since it was not my carport, an insurance company has given me $2500 to repair the damage. Reading through the posts here, I have renewed confidence that I can sort out it's remaining issues and get it back on the road. Most of my questions are drive train related, and my project far from a restoration - when I got the car you could see the road through the floor, and the engine died permanently shortly after purchase. There wasn't a usable piece of chrome on it, no top, and the body had some issue in every square foot. So after I took the car entirely apart and started looking for parts, it appeared to be a reasonable idea to substitute some pieces (: Here is a photo from 1998: Here after the carport collapse: Besides painful, it is embarrassing how neglected it had become. The windshield frame was rusty when I got it, and the windshield pitted, so they are no great loss, but not so easy to replace (if anyone knows of a nice low windshield frame, or wing windows, please let me know) The carport also caught the top of the rear fender, but fortunately spared my fiberglass hood. Here are a few more of it's current condition. Here is what I did 16+ years ago: 73 260 P30 Block - bored, new bearings, flat-top pistons. 72 240 E88 Head - Schneider 270/280, .460 lift cam, springs. port-matched and polished. SU round top carbs. 280 electronic distributor, Dyna-Mod. Headers (untwisted and retwisted a bit to get them in there). 2.5" Dynomax muffler. Oil Cooler and remote filter. Facet cube style fuel pump. Datsun PU 4 spd transmission (free at the time) Shortened drive shaft. Radiator (Jeep Cherokee) in trunk, elec. fans. Battery also in trunk. Rear fenders spread, tires; Yoko 215/60/14 rear, 195/70/14 front. Volvo brake calipers, SS brake lines, non-stock master cylinder. Springs lightly stiffened, heavier sway bar, redone suspension, bigger shocks. Roll Bar, better headlights. Major goals for round 2: 1. Improving the cooling system (see below) 2. Fix my fuel delivery system 3. Add an Air/Fuel gauge. 4. 280 five speed transmission. 5. Repair the weather damage of the last 10 years. (crunched top of rear fender, needs new windshield, windshied frame, wing windows, dash). 6. New soft top. 7. Various creature comforts I didn't get to last time(windshield wipers, washer, still debating the need for a heater) 8. Fix any body defects, respray exterior. 9. LD28 water pump (if I can find one). Somewhere I have some other first build pics, such as drive train on bare frame, etc, but that was pre digital camera, several computers, and a couple houses ago, so it may take me a while to find them. My first pass on the cooling came close, but would inevitably begin climbing in temp after 20 minutes or so of driving- which rather limited it's appeal. But on a cool day, Oregon country road, it was nothing short of glorius to drive - well balanced, very quick, and sounding great. It also attracted its share of attention (: It had approx 4.5' long 1 1/4 alum. pipes under the floorboards (approx 1" id after adapters), connected by hoses to engine and stock Jeep Cherokee radiator (short and wide). For version two I am having some approx. 6 foot 1.5" .058 wall stainless tubes bent, Got a new 3-row all aluminum radiator with bigger inlets and outlets, new Spal fans. There is a lot more info online now then there was then, I have renewed interest and confidence that I can get it's issues sorted. Some very good posts here on head cooling, and posts on 4x4 forums on remote radiators give me hope. I am getting a 1/4 npt port put in the drivers side SS tube to give me an option of running a -6 line from the back of the head into it, see attached diagram (thanks Bill Wilhelm for your cooling diagrams, which I 'borrowed' from). Option A would run lines from the back two cylinders to the tube and lower thermostat housing, Option B from the lower thermostat housing to the tube (I pulled the carb return line originally, as I didn't see a need to warm the intake). I also didn't understand the fuel rail (as several posts here have illuminated). My current plan is to replace the rubber hoses with AN hose, with a return and a regulator after the carbs (a Holley 12-804 unless someone has a better idea) My shop neighbor (I'm not a mechanic, I work with wood), is a Honda tuner who just put a new dyno in next door to me. I figure he owes me a good deal on dyno time for having to listen to him (: I suspect that I have been running lean at higher rpms, I am hoping that between adding an air/fuel meter, and some dyno time I should be able to get that sorted. The carbs and distributor were blessed 17 years ago by a local Datsun Guru, will see if the blessing has worn off. I suspect I will have to augment the insurance companies donation, so it may take a few months - but I am determined to get my baby back on the road, with the issues remaining solved. I hope you consider its discussion appropriate, look forward to your input, and making any modest contributions to Hybridz that I can. regards, Michael Eugene, Or
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